Kiwi TJ
Just asked myself if I’m crazy and we all said No
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I don’t know much but I know that ain’t no ‘Hog’ that’s a fish

Accomplished pulling one rear MetalCloak flare.
- Found one area of mild corrosion/bubbled paint hiding behind the support panel (i was surprised since this is rust-free desert/SoCal rig) . Scuffed it and hit it with some paint match Duplicolor.
- Gave the 6” widebody rear flare a test fit. I KNOW some folks hate the look. I don’t mind it? I think i’m used to how wide the MC fenders are (about 5-5.5” overall).
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Did yours have a black protective layer between the tub paint and the fender? I have no idea how to get mine off
Hey Duner, No, they didn’t. The MC assembly had a metal plate that the that the flare bolted to, but that plate was right up against the painted sheetmetal.
Interesting. Our set was installed by the one of the previous owners. I wonder if the “liner” was part of the original fender MC kit, that maybe was left off ours?Shoot alright. I gotta figure out what is on mine, I think it’s a think adhesive of some type.
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And just looks cool. I started a build thread
02 Modified TJ Restoration Build
Is the title, need to create link.
All that diff work down the tubes, t-case, rear shaft bad causing pinion bearing failure again.
My tranny guy came by and test drove it. Details on build thread. Jeep pulled into garage now for t-case removal.![]()
Ok, so that answers that question...
But what's up with the backing into parking spaces?
We back our vehicles in our garage![]()
Interesting. Our set was installed by the one of the previous owners. I wonder if the “liner” was part of the original fender MC kit, that maybe was left off ours?
The MC rear flares do mount up nice. I didn't see a need to put anything between the MC mount and the tub. I did paint the area with Rust Reformer and regular paint after drilling the holes before putting the mounts on though.I have a set of the MC rear fenders waiting for the time to install, there is no rubber liner as part of the kit, it is literally just a flat piece of steel with the cups welded on to position the flares.
funny enough, i currently have the 6" widebody flares on mine, my grandfather didn't like getting mud on his pant legs when he got out so he told the shop he wanted the widest flares he could get. they do look right with 2" wheel spacers, JLR wheels and 285s though
First, it is safer and easier to pull out of a spot versus back out of a spot. Think about busy parking lots where you can't see the cross traffic or pedestrians, especially without cameras or sensors.
Second, larger vehicles (not our TJ's) like pickups are more maneuverable into a spot when the steering wheels are second. A drag axle will cheat through a corner so if you think of it as pushing the drag axle and steering from the rear, it's easier to maneuver in tight quarters.
When people are in a hurry (say emergency services), most collisions and damage occur when backing. So if you do the backing portion while you are not rushed, you minimize the risk of damage when leaving in a hurry.
If it isn't seamless it isn't strongFigured it was time beef up the suspension with something light weight and ready to handle the rocks. No more light weight aluminum if I am gonna be running 40s. This is easy to replace when it’s chewed up and cheap on the pocket book
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Figured it was time beef up the suspension with something light weight and ready to handle the rocks. No more light weight aluminum if I am gonna be running 40s. This is easy to replace when it’s chewed up and cheap on the pocket book
View attachment 595895
Figured it was time beef up the suspension with something light weight and ready to handle the rocks. No more light weight aluminum if I am gonna be running 40s. This is easy to replace when it’s chewed up and cheap on the pocket book
View attachment 595895