What did you do to your TJ today?

Jeepin' Geo said:
Fixed the tailgate hinge nut issue I created (stripped nut threads) when installing the MORryde reinforcement kit.

Going through the nut, drilled through the tailgate with a 1/4" drill. Opened the hole in the rear side of the tailgate with Harbor Freight step dills (no one was hurt!). Due to the shallow depth of the tailgate, the final size was drilled with a cut down step drill. Used a 5/16-18 serrated flange nut and finished off with a 3/4" rubber hole plug.

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That's a good way to do it, specially if you have one of those tail gate Molle covers. I was looking for a tailgate to replace mine with as the channel for the gasket is on its way out, but this may be a better way to get it done and also treat the rust.
 
grumblebee said:
Awesome. That's a deep shine. Looks like you've a pretty sweet GTO Judge too?
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Thanks! I've been building the 70 GTO for 2 years now.

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Finally got all the bits and pieces to start putting together a replacement front Dana 30 HP. Got the Aussie locker in, and finished sanding down a set of bearings so they can be removed by hand for setup (so far the most tedious part of the whole project). Debating whether to try to sleeve and truss it after the gearing is setup. It's just money, right? 🤪

Following the how-to guide on this forum and think I'm at a good jumping off point for gear setup (housing came empty with no carrier or carrier brackets, pinion, etc.)

Oddly enough the master install kit that (didn't come until I threatened to call my bank) I ordered from 4wp doesn't include marking compound, so I'm waiting on that to see. After a few back and forth tries with pinion and carrier shims, I'm sitting pretty good with backlash by the numbers. Hoping the marking compound agrees and I can move on to final assembly and checks.

I used to align motor and pumping systems for the energy industry, which is pretty similar in process. I'd say the number one thing for doing your own gearing is to make setup bearings. It's no big deal to change shims if you're not fighting a bearing puller and press every time you make an adjustment.

The write up on this forum for doing your own gears is phenomenally put together, it does a good job of give my you enough information so you understand what is happening and why.

This forum is awesome.

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Do you have pics of the Headrest Project? My daughter was complaining about that on Sunday. It looks like I can pull the cloth off the seatback without cutting any of the stitching. You could probably even start a specific thread if you felt inclined.
 
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grumblebee said:
No rust yet on mine, it certainly could be worse. Stainless hardware and rivnuts is a great idea. I've been thinking of what to do when I reinstall to make it easier/better than the plastic nuts. Part of me wants to improve it, part of me just wants to get them back on without spending more money. Have you got a build thread on your Jeep? What's that hood latch you've got? Looks nice. I've been looking at getting new ones.
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I really need to do a build thread. I’ve had the Jeep for 17 years now, and just rebuilt it due a blown engine.

I took a flier on these hood straps. I had to cut the bolts of mine as the welds broke on all the bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DRPTWR5/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Ephry73 said:
I would definitely orient the pin pointing back just in case. How have they held up? I was looking at this kit, and the Rough Country/Rugged ridge one that mimics the stock setup, but all metal. For now, I have the Onix stock replacement and want to get something tighter
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I thought about that once I put them on but honestly they are so snug and they lock anyway (like with a key) that I'm not concerned about it. As for how they've held up, ask me again in several months because they've only been on now for 4 days haha.
 
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TJ Hunnicutt said:
Welcome to the forum!

An SYE is a good thing to do, especially if you have installed or plan to install a lift over about 2" and, for shafts, Adams makes good stuff (y)
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I needed the sye after installing the BDS 3” basic lift. Waiting on adjustable control arms to fix the pinion angle. Now for the axles and gearing... someday.
 
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Yesterday, I replaced the A/C compressor and accumulator/drier. It's blowing cold and should be leak free now.

When I fired it up to charge the system, I had a pretty decent coolant leak. Turns out the clamp at the water pump for the lower hose was not tight from a previous owner or "mechanic" and in removing the old compressor and installing the new one, the hose had almost come off the pump. It stopped leaking though once it warmed up. After I got the system charged and the engine cooled back down, I investigated and found the issue. I'm curious to see if my very, very slow coolant disappearing act is reduced by some measurable amount. I'm not entirely convinced I don't have some sort of thermostat housing or head gasket issue. I'm not only the Pessimistic Cub president, I'm also a client.
 
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Got the fog lite switch installed, works like a champ!
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The switch lites up as it should, the dash indicator lites up as it should - but too bad the actual fog lites out on the bumper do not! Suspect a problem with the OEM connector frontside that was waving in the breeze for 14 years - reading about 6 volts inside the fog lamp I opened up. Tomorrow's project...
 
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Nightmare9 said:
Do you have pics of the Headrest Project? My daughter was complaining about that on Sunday. It looks like I can pull the cloth off the seatback without cutting any of the stitching. You could probably even start a specific thread if you felt inclined.
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Head over to the “How to” section of the forum, I based my headrest project off of the one in there. I searched “headrest” and it came up immediately. I did respond to that post, with pics of the process on that thread. Just be prepared to do a lot of measuring and even more eyeballing the angles, there are SO many at play in this project (ie, angle of headrest posts, how tall your most common passengers are, the angle of the rear seat back when installed in Jeep, etc.). You really have to plan this one out from A to Z...especially prior to drilling holes in the seat frame. It was honestly more involved than I initially thought. Plus, feel free to reach out anytime, I’m happy to share my experience or just be a person to bounce ideas off of! FYI, if I did it over again I’d experiment with a set of back seat “low profile” headrests as the regular ones like I used do have some challenges with visibility - Just a thought.
 
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