What did you do to your TJ today?

Had the Currie adjustable track bar installed. The axle side mount was wallowed out so I figured there would be welding required for repair. Turns out when they drilled out the mount for the larger bolt it didn’t need repair. It hadn’t ovaled out past 1/2”. While they were down there I had them install the currectlync drag link and track bar with a new bilstein steering stabilizer and align it. No more death wobble and it handles like a new car, sort of... also installed the steering box skid after this pic was taken

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Good steering components are essential with big tires..at least eventually, in my book.

It's not that stock components are bad, they are just designed for smaller tires and less stress.
 
Finally decided to back wash my heater core today. Drained all coolant off, unhooked the return line hose from the heater core and hooked up some low pressure water. Was getting very low flow into the catch bucket and gently increased pressure when suddenly I got two good thumps out and a slug of horrid brown sludge and then good flow through the core. No wonder I had not been getting any heat transfer before. All in all, not a bad job.
 
Had the Currie adjustable track bar installed. The axle side mount was wallowed out so I figured there would be welding required for repair (I’m no good at welding). Turns out when they drilled out the mount for the larger bolt it didn’t need repair. It hadn’t ovaled out past 1/2”. While they were down there I had them install the currectlync drag link and track bar with a new bilstein steering stabilizer and align it. Sucks to pay someone else to work on it, but it’s nice to not have to worry about it. No more death wobble and it handles like a new car, sort of... also installed the steering box skid after this pic was taken

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That's a pretty impressive first post.
 
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Finally decided to back wash my heater core today. Drained all coolant off, unhooked the return line hose from the heater core and hooked up some low pressure water. Was getting very low flow into the catch bucket and gently increased pressure when suddenly I got two good thumps out and a slug of horrid brown sludge and then good flow through the core. No wonder I had not been getting any heat transfer before. All in all, not a bad job.
I’ve been wanting to do this but need to flush my coolant and that job I’m unsure of. All you need to do is unhook the heater core inlet tube from the engine and run water? Where does the water come out?
 
Had a few fellow clowns over today. A whole lot of talking and no physical work on my axle today...which was good because we talked about the process and interference issues. Really good day for that. My brain hurts though.

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Removed the factory fogs and installed some 7" LED lights. What a difference! I can drive without headlights now. :unsure: Took it out after it got dark and the driving lights are MUCH brighter than the headlight high beams. I made sure I angled them down enough so I wouldn't blind anyone. $42 well spent IMO. My new DOT Osram LED headlights ($50) should be here Monday.


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I’ve been wanting to do this but need to flush my coolant and that job I’m unsure of. All you need to do is unhook the heater core inlet tube from the engine and run water? Where does the water come out?
When I did it, I was specifically targeting my heater core, so I pushed pressure into the heater outlet hose(upper hose) and it came out the unhooked inlet hose (lower) and into a catch bucket. Effectively it unplugged with some reverse flow under pressure.
 
So, they’re adjusted... Kinda.

Had to adjust them WAY down. Stopped when the top edge of the light got out to the face of the grill and then backed them off a little. They’re probably still a little high but I didn’t want them to stick out to far. It didn’t help that the ground in front of the fence I used isn’t particularly even.

Cut off is meh.

Still, tough to complain for $52. The light output is so much better. The pattern may have been better in the KC H4 conversion I used in my last LJ, but I’d say these are better overall, if they last.

So, I guess I have to revise my report. Got them out on an ice cream run tonight and cutoff seems better than I thought. Light is great. And when paired with the Hellas I’m not wanting for light at all.

It’s a little foggy, so pics could be better, but...

Low beams:

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High beams:

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Low beams and driving:

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After driving my 06 to meet a client and worker on a remodel :


Put the heat shield on my 03 the shop left off, prepped painted the triangles behind the mirrors SEM black and the driver's side door handle, ceramic waxed it and drove it some...then the fun started.

@Chief Brohician came up and we sorted out some 1/2 door drama , boy he's got a sweet driving Dana 44 equipped 98 Sport.

Then a buddy texted he got a jk.

It was game on. We all headed to the trail.

Chief got his right front in a V and we had to bail and weight the left rear.

He had to get back to reality and went home , and the Short Bus showed up...it couldn't go where the TJ's could ...at all... We literally climbed rocks past guys stuck on 4 wheelers. One guy was bigger than his quad...looked like an ant carrying a biscuit.

Then we went to my place, messed with the JK a little , has retractable steps.. stupidest thing I've ever seen on a lifted off road vehicle.

Eating street tacos now . Had an absolute ball, drove out here to Arab, Alabama (real place) with the top off

I'm a happy guy. As long as my oldest boy brings my 03 back in top shape. It needed drove. It's sat too much. First world problem.
 
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Good Lord....I knew something was vaguely odd with my White '03 ...I kept having to alternately nudge the wheel left and right as I drove ...this is all new Moog , ZJ upgrade...etc.

Then I got the call. My son -" hey dad , why did this thing start shaking when I hit a bump?" Normally that's starts an interrogation, but I knew he didn't go far.

Oh boy. I'm pretty Anti Death Wobble. I don't know it all , but I know what it is and a little bit about how to deal with it ....and I know bump activated death wobble means a loose track bar or other component typically...and I just had a new upper right control arm mount installed ...undercover fab works....for basically the same reason ..my stock mount was wallered out. That's a real word in Alabama. Wallered. You can ask my mommernem.


Mr. Blaine has mentioned many times the upper right front control arm has to be watched in death wobble situations, and he well knows his craft.

Any way, sure enough , bushing had drifted so far toward the passenger tire it is only in one side of the mount , that's about 7/8 wide, sort of like the one on the differential in design but not solid.

Not sure if the bushing is in backward or something weird, or if that matters , but the bottom line is you can't have loose parts, especially up front.

I've started a thread, knowing many members are awake right now, thinking - "I wander what AndyG is doing" or maybe more like "I wander what that idiot broke this week?"

Here we are.
 
These say 0-2 in the description then 0-3 in the specs so your mileage may vary. I have their rears which have been fine. https://zoneoffroad.com/products/sw...e-xj-grand-cherokee-zj?variant=33232195813464

I must say, its been a long time since I've seen such a poor and conflicting website... No idea whats what and what actually is meant for what vehicle. If you go to their Canadian equivalent site that same part lists this..

TJ Wrangler Models - Designed for 0-2" lifted applicationsXJ Cherokee / ZJ Grand Cherokee Models - Designed for 3" lifted applications[/QUOTE]
 
I must say, its been a long time since I've seen such a poor and conflicting website... No idea whats what and what actually is meant for what vehicle. If you go to their Canadian equivalent site that same part lists this..
You do know that the actual angle doesn't make any noticeable difference like some people believe? It's not like your driveshaft angles. You can run stock rear sway bar links with a 4" lift and nobody can tell. Tons of people make solid links for Jeeps with 2-3" lifts. Solid links don't break like the crap ball/socket stock links. You DON'T want longer versions of that.
 
You do know that the actual angle doesn't make any noticeable difference like some people believe? It's not like your driveshaft angles. You can run stock rear sway bar links with a 4" lift and nobody can tell. Tons of people make solid links for Jeeps with 2-3" lifts. Solid links don't break like the crap ball/socket stock links. You DON'T want longer versions of that.

i want solid links not the quick discos. Tons of people like who? I see quick discos but not much option for the solid links between 2-3”