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What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
You already have it, and you might need it. Clean it up and put it back on sez here. I probably won't ever need mine, but it was cheap enough and nice to have just in case. Besides, the chicks dig it at the mall!
I wasn't the first, or even the 1,0001st person to refurb a winch, I just documented it on my Jeep page. There really wasn't anything wrong with it per se, it just needed cleaning up inside and out.
Painting of the new bumper continues, along with the rear foglite, chainplate and square spacer washers:
Apparently some folks NEED to adopt Group think and just buy their bumpers ! (you know, to protect the children)I agree.You can tell a lot about a person by their homemade bumpers.
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Thank you for your kind words. I wanted a bumper that was sturdy, didn't weigh too much, and had an "old skool" vibe to it. I also didn't want to pay an arm and a leg for it - I think I have about $250-260 in this one, $180 of that was the welding. And I wanted "full width" protection - I'd rather get hung up on something and have to pry myself off than to damage something because I didn't have enough bumper. But that's me, I'm still a beginner and there aren't many rocks in Florida - I reserve the right to change my mind in the future, and if I do, I own a SawzAll...I am glad I lived long enough to see this phantom bumper story coming to life!
Honestly Zorba , I am glad to see more Home brewed bumpers designed and installed.
It is much more personal then the group think default of buying one from a certain " S " company.
But here again you really don't fall in line to group think defaults.( I wonder why I think that ).
If the, " Florida mountains " photo taken in your driveway are any indication of the Rocks you'll be dealing
with, your Sawzall will be living a quiet life.
Good job on the bumper.
They have parking lot speed bumps at Walmart too.If the, " Florida mountains " photo taken in your driveway are any indication of the Rocks you'll be dealing
with, your Sawzall will be living a quiet life.
Thanks, I’ll read up on your work again. I removed it also to pull the bumper and paint. The PO literally sprayed it with crap paint while on the Jeep. Overspray all over the grill
Added some DEI heat shielding and a new valve cover gasket.
Make sure you get it tight,when I did my savvy skid a year ago I only did hand tight,and I’ve been getting a po456 code.I smoked it last night and the thing was leaking around the ring seal, had to buy the Lyle tool and make sure you lube the threads,the GenRight access panel paid off huge!
I was gonna ask if you had found your leak yet. Glad to know it was a (somewhat) easy fix for ya!
I took a picture of the antenna as installed in my TJ from the inside. I thought I had a pic of the exterior, but there are 3 pieces of tape on the back side 1 that covers the whole width and length of the center part, and 1 on each end of the narrow skinny sides.
Replaced the oil pressure sensor unit and replaced the transmission shift cable bushing.
I replaced my upper cats/head pipe.
I'd been getting a P0421 code, and had replaced the O2 sensors on Bank 1, hoping that was the problem. Unfortunately, that didn't seem to be the case as the code kept coming back. Also unfortunately, the CARB certified cat assembly is mucho expensive. Fortunately, I found the Magnaflow upper cats only on eBay for $350, or offer. I offered the seller $300, and they accepted. It's not the complete assembly with the downstream cat, but for the price, I jumped on it. The cheapest CARB cat assembly I found was the Walker unit for about $800, and it's an ugly SOB. Wrinkled bends, and ugly welds. The Magnaflow is much, much cleaner.
R&R wasn't too bad, just awkward as hell.. As my LJ has lived its entire life in SoCal, the bolts into the manifold came out fairly easily once I figured out the drill. Replaced the Bank 2 O2 sensors as well as transferring the new Bank 1 sensors over. Cleared the code, and so far, so good.
I examined the cats I took off, and there was some deterioration of the Bank 1 cat. I hadn't had any down turn in performance or gas mileage, so I'm optimistic that the downstream cat isn't plugged.
I'd been getting a P0421 code, and had replaced the O2 sensors on Bank 1, hoping that was the problem. Unfortunately, that didn't seem to be the case as the code kept coming back. Also unfortunately, the CARB certified cat assembly is mucho expensive. Fortunately, I found the Magnaflow upper cats only on eBay for $350, or offer. I offered the seller $300, and they accepted. It's not the complete assembly with the downstream cat, but for the price, I jumped on it. The cheapest CARB cat assembly I found was the Walker unit for about $800, and it's an ugly SOB. Wrinkled bends, and ugly welds. The Magnaflow is much, much cleaner.
R&R wasn't too bad, just awkward as hell.. As my LJ has lived its entire life in SoCal, the bolts into the manifold came out fairly easily once I figured out the drill. Replaced the Bank 2 O2 sensors as well as transferring the new Bank 1 sensors over. Cleared the code, and so far, so good.
I examined the cats I took off, and there was some deterioration of the Bank 1 cat. I hadn't had any down turn in performance or gas mileage, so I'm optimistic that the downstream cat isn't plugged.
Well today I checked my pinion angle 17.3
I checked my drive shaft angle 18.1
My transfer case yoke angle is. 6.1
So my operating angle is 11.2
I had to change my oil
Change my oil sending unit.
Change the output seal on my extream short SYE
and I’m the process of changing my rear 8.8 pinion seal. I had to order the timken repair kit ( KWK99181). The mating flange has a grove in it.
Also had a check engine light come on and it had to do with the torque converter Solenoid connection. And because I have some wonderful people who help me to learn how to install a transmission I knew exactly what it was and fixed it
I checked my drive shaft angle 18.1
My transfer case yoke angle is. 6.1
So my operating angle is 11.2
I had to change my oil
Change my oil sending unit.
Change the output seal on my extream short SYE
and I’m the process of changing my rear 8.8 pinion seal. I had to order the timken repair kit ( KWK99181). The mating flange has a grove in it.
Also had a check engine light come on and it had to do with the torque converter Solenoid connection. And because I have some wonderful people who help me to learn how to install a transmission I knew exactly what it was and fixed it
Finished install of my on-board air with a Speedmaster PE560.1001. I made a bracket out of some angle material and recommissioned some rubber dampers to reduce vibrations. After removing some extraneous fittings and rotating the cylinder 180 degrees, it slid nicely down into the cavity to the outside of the master cylinder. It already has a relay, so I tapped into it to hard wire it to the battery and installed a toggle in the console.
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LittleFires
Member
Finished the rear bumper and installed
LittleFires
Member
Inside and outside door handle replacement…PITA, learning curve and tool fabrication and a little cursing, but new and tight now, not the over painted originals.
Bought off eBay a set
Watched quadratech you tube, marginally helpful, they skip the part that draws the cursing and tool fabrication…
Heated with a torch and bent to use to install the gator clips and the cotter pin. Bent a pick to pull the cotter pin off getting the old one apart.
Reused the original clips where we could for this particular set. Also they had the retainer clips installed backwards so pay attention to how the original one goes. Remember they are oppposite for drivers vs passenger side.
Take the doors off and use a table to save yourself. We put a towel on a hammer under the paddle to keep pressure on as we reassembled the mechanism. The clips are a pain especially due to the lack of access, the “tool” helped access from above through the window, along with some careful hammer tapping when getting the gators far enough and the cotter.
Second one went much faster, good time to lube everything in the mechanisms. A good day!
Bought off eBay a set
Watched quadratech you tube, marginally helpful, they skip the part that draws the cursing and tool fabrication…
Heated with a torch and bent to use to install the gator clips and the cotter pin. Bent a pick to pull the cotter pin off getting the old one apart.
Reused the original clips where we could for this particular set. Also they had the retainer clips installed backwards so pay attention to how the original one goes. Remember they are oppposite for drivers vs passenger side.
Take the doors off and use a table to save yourself. We put a towel on a hammer under the paddle to keep pressure on as we reassembled the mechanism. The clips are a pain especially due to the lack of access, the “tool” helped access from above through the window, along with some careful hammer tapping when getting the gators far enough and the cotter.
Second one went much faster, good time to lube everything in the mechanisms. A good day!
Mousy Orla
TJ Enthusiast
Ah damn, yeah, I need to do this as well. Driver's door is super loose, passenger door handle is super tight, tailgate doesn't seem to wanna actually 100% close. The joys of a 21 year old Jeep
As for me and my TJ today, I replaced the OEM rear shocks between working on other cars at work today, but didn't have time to do the front ones, so that's a thing for Monday after work. Night and day difference in ride quality. The old shocks had no gas left in them, you could effortlessly push the shock down and it didn't even try to come back up.
Chucked them into my scrap box to sell the metal later on.
Oh, I also put nitrogen in my tires before I left work, but I bought the last valve cover gasket from my local O'reilly Auto Parts had in stock on Friday, the one I have seems old and appears to be leaking from cylinder 6.
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Replaced all the dash and interior lights and the under hood light with LEDs. My thanks to Chris for posting the info on the required bulbs for the job.