Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

What did you do to your TJ today?

I am not really aiming for cold air. I am aiming to stop taking in water when I dip the nose into water holes. I am sacrificing one thing for another. Water being the greater of the 2 evils.

But I will likely check IAT out of curiosity.

The actual choice in hood vent location came to me from reading the linked post.

Hood Vent Location Link

Not getting cool air is one thing - getting hot air is quite another. If your IAT's get up there the computer will pull timing to avoid detonation. If you think your 4.0 is underpowered now...

Note: This is definitely the way it works in the Hemi. In my case when I had the air intake temporarily in the same general location as your proposed location - I dropped 50 ponies on the dyno. Been a long time since I worked on a stock 4.0, but I believe it works the same way in this regard. Someone correct me if this is not the case.

I have seen that and its in the wheel house. I just want to toss around a few other ideas before jumping into the cowling. I have tossed around a few ideas with the Windstar filter under the hood and I may try them out depending on how this goes.

A cowl intake is a good way to go. You also don't have to worry about rain getting in there if it is set up correctly.

Glad to see you exploring options, Unique.
 
Had to replace the torsion bar on my front Antirock. I forgot to put antiseize on the end screws so it seized itself in the bar. Tried drilling and tapping it BUT the chromeoly was much stronger than my tap. It took several bits that are for stainless just to drill the bolt out 🤦‍♂️.

Lesson learned...

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That LDI, Inc decal is the OEM OPDA. My ‘06 has the same decal on it.

Thanks for the info on that. LDI must have been the OEM supplier. It lasted 20 years and 171k miles. But then Ol Blue is still pretty much stock. I got the LJ from a used car dealer up in Kentucky and for a northern vehicle, it's not in bad shape at all.

I'm still wondering why in the heck that Cam Position Sensor was stuck so hard into the housing. And what I can use to keep the new one from seizing up in there.
 
I'm still wondering why in the heck that Cam Position Sensor was stuck so hard into the housing. And what I can use to keep the new one from seizing up in there.

I wonder if it was some corrosion, being that it was in Kentucky.
 
Had to replace the torsion bar on my front Antirock. I forgot to put antiseize on the end screws so it seized itself in the bar. Tried drilling and tapping it BUT the chromeoly was much stronger than my tap. It took several bits that are for stainless just to drill the bolt out 🤦‍♂️.

Lesson learned...

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Right learning, but wrong lesson. Don’t use anti-seize there, use medium thread locker. Thread locker also inhibits corrosion, and keeps the fastener from seizing. Anti-seize won’t keep the fastener from backing out.
 
Finally attacked all of the deferred maintenance on the LJ. Been living with an assortment of noises from below, and fixed them. Had a severe screeching noise from under the driver side door when turning left from a stop. It was a loose body mount. The nut in the torque box was spinning, but raised the body up with the floor jack, and applied my impact wrench to tighten it up. Nice. Then the rear body side trac bar bolt was loose. And then applied exhaust wrap on the exhaust tip where it was banging against the fuel tank skid. And finally, the driver side lower rear shock mount, a two piece job, was loose. The bolt was was replaced, and now have a quiet jeep! And replaced the spark plugs with the XP985 Autolites. Plug job wasn’t without some skin carnage! The Jeep is back from Baja, and have some rust to attend to down there from using Jeep to launch boat. IMG_1943.jpegIMG_1926.jpegIMG_1945.jpegIMG_1944.jpeg
 
I put in a upgraded H4 headlight harness. Even though I have Retrobrights the harness will still increase brightness although probably not noticeable. Another benefit of the harness is it takes the load off the delicate MFS. I also cleaned the throttle body with cleaner, particularly the IAC through the intake. Idles much better now.
 
Got the new OPDA in and took it for a test drive. Much Much better and a marked increase in power. I was going to just take it up in the field behind the house, but I ended up going to the end of the road, turning around, coming back and then for a quick run around the pond. I'm wondering if I'd been running around in limp mode for a long time.

Got it home and decided to see if I can sort out the transfer case shifter. It's been being rather difficult to shift.

Anyway, while I was working on the OPDA I noticed this thing above the oil filter. What the heck is it? My first thought was the oil pressure sender, but that's farther back on the block.

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Anyway, while I was working on the OPDA I noticed this thing above the oil filter. What the heck is it?
That looks like an ignition capacitor. It attenuates the noise from the spark plugs firing to keep it from interfering with the radio signal. It's really only needed for AM radio because the engine frequencies are in the AM frequency band.
 
I think that's the last time I'm using Blind Tommy's Discount Auto Body. Maybe it's just me but that color match seems a bit off... :sneaky:

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Started tearing into the half doors I snagged last weekend for a general condition assessment and to develop a parts order list. Turns out the passenger door is in far better shape than the drivers in pretty much every way. For shits and giggles I threw it on Tessie, slid into place with only a cursory cleanup of the hinge pins. The door could go straight back a hair to even the panel gaps front to rear, but other than that it's spot on.

I didn't bother with trying to hang the drivers door, the hinges were well off square to the door and I'm starting to wonder if it wasn't dropped hinge-edge down at some point. Someone really shit the bed on the door check footman's loop as well, the original fasteners were both snapped off in the door, a failed attempt was made to drill them out, the loop was relocated and tore out an additional two times and it was about to go for a hat trick at the newest location. The reinforcing plate spot welded inside the door is there for a reason, but it's clear a previous owner didn't clock that.
 
Went on our 3rd annual Pork The Fork fun run to Estill Fork with @Hog and @tnjeepguy -

@tnjeepguy may be the best driver we have ever seen...no joke. No lockers, no sweat.

Great time-




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I really hate that I missed going with y'all, it was a perfect day too, I bet the Forks were nice and dry also!!

Here is what we helped build for the local elementary school just up from the house.

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Some kind of dodge ball pit, for little kids, GaGa ball or something like that.
 
I really hate that I missed going with y'all, it was a perfect day too, I bet the Forks were nice and dry also!!

Here is what we helped build for the local elementary school just up from the house.

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Some kind of dodge ball pit, for little kids, GaGa ball or something like that.

Who's that mean looking guy on the left? :unsure:
 
Finished up working on my 97 yesterday. Centered my steering wheel, replaced a mostly stripped bolt on a UCA I ran across when I was putting the front axle back in and I did a solder fix to my clock spring.
This was an interesting one and we'll see how long it holds up.
First, I cut out the break which looks, from the PO's install, like it was binding inside and bent til it broke
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Burned off the plastic from all 5 wires on both pieces and cleaned them up with a heavy scotch Brite pad. Tinned opposite sides of each set of wires.
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Laid them on top of each other and held my needle iron on them until it oozed. All 5 have a nice solid connection.
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Goop it up with some semi-solid liquid electrical tape on both sides. I mashed it in there so it insulated in between each wire set.
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Let it dry and trimmed up the edges a bit. Found center in the rotation again, reassembled it, reinstalled it and tested it. I have a horn and I have no airbag light!! Took it for a drive and steered full lock both ways and she's still holding! We'll see on longevity. Maybe this worked (however temporary) because the break is very close to the connector end. I don't know if I'd trust it if it was in the middle somewhere
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts