What did you do to your TJ today?

Isn’t it dry there? I hate our humidity here in the south. Heat index breeches 103 here yesterday and it’s just stupid sticky hot


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2005 RHD TJ Sport
2010 BMW 528xi

It usually is. The humidity was high several days at the beach. It was lower the closer we go to the desert area. I'm home now just North of Nashville. It is 91* with 57% humidity and the dew point is at 72% and the feels like is 100*
 
just finished installing a new to me soft top, what a PITA. Did not come with windows or the door surrounds but for a 150 bucks and close by I could not pass it up.
 
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Long story short,Went to install new steering kit. Could not get the bolt loose from pitman arm that connects draglink. Decided on pulling the pitman. Boy was it a pain. I broke 2 pitman arm pullers and a c-clamp. Eventually decided on cutting pitman arm off to replace.
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this is my brother in the photos helping, got to give him credit. he helps me out/guides me on everything
 
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Sunday took a day trip over to Jacksonville, AL for a bit of Jeeping at Choccolocco Mountain OHV. Cool park, and seemed to be plenty for us to get into. Only minimal issues with my Jeep, my Savvy cable shifter needed a bit of adjustment, but boy I still love the way it works. We had 3 Jeeps and a Big ole Dodge Ram with us.

First time my Jeep gets to flex her new suspension.
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Today had the front driveshaft rebuilt. Dropped the skid to remove and install it. Over the weekend changed the ball joints, the axle shaft u joints (used all spicer brand, thanks to the advice here )and removed the drag link and tie rod. Tomorrow is reassembly day to put on new Timken unit bearings and new steering back on. Then try to figure out how to align it, i may have a shop align it though
 
I’ve seen a number of very detailed articles and videos on how to do it. To some degree or another I understand it as well, especially after having had to set the gear lash so many times on a number of 1/5 scale RC cars I’ve owned.

Part of me thinks it’s something I’m building up in my head to be much harder than it actually is.

I have actually done gears myself in every case. I did all of my full size blazer gears, and all of my jeep gears myself. I have done a number of Toyotas which are like miniature Ford 9 inchers. Those are pretty easy in reality.

For the most part if you take it apart and put it back together using the same shims to get you started you are going to be pretty close. Or that is the case for me. I usually re-use the oil slinger behind the pinion bearing if at all possible. In every gear change I have done, I have not had one fail ever. And on one of my blazers I had would change rear carriers with a welded carrier and mismatch the ring gear. It was never noisy nor ever blew up. I think people are afraid of it, for the most part, but I think they are pretty forgiving too. Not to say that you can't screw it up, but I think the first time you do it you are so meticulous you will get it pretty close to perfect.

For me if you get the pattern right, and the torques right they will last a long time. The hardest part for me is crushing or not over crushing the crush sleeve. Especially if you are doing this at home, without a good air compressor. It is really hard to get the crush sleeve to start the crush but once it starts it is nothing to over crush it. I get it to start to crush then measure the turning diameter with an inch pound torque wrench. If it is too tight, I start over with a new crush sleeve. That I think is the most important thing to get right, because if it is too tight the pinion bearings will wear out prematurely or get hot and smoke the fluid. And checking the pattern when you are done. You want the pinion depth right and the ring gear in the pinion right.

I saw a youtube video where a guy crushed a crush sleeve with some channel locks, a socket on a breaker bar, and a floor jack. I think I am going to use that technique the next time. it seems like it will be strong enough and slow enough to get it the first time.

For me I don't have a press, I usually cut off the old bearings with a die grinder, and pound the new ones on with race drivers and sockets. But the most important tool would be a inch pound torque wrench for measuring the turning torque of the pinion.

I am sure people will argue with me, and tell me that it is super important for it to be critically put together, but I have done a ton of these, and some of them I threw together to get back on the road, most I have done on my back in the garage, and none have ever left me stranded. I can only tell you about my experiences though.

I will tell you if you do it yourself, and it works, there is nothing like the sense of accomplishment.

This assumes you are mechanically inclined. if you don't understand how a differential works, I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself, but if you normally work on your rig yourself, I do think this is something a back yard mechanic can do or figure out. Especially as someone mentioned before with all of the videos out there.
 
I have actually done gears myself in every case. I did all of my full size blazer gears, and all of my jeep gears myself. I have done a number of Toyotas which are like miniature Ford 9 inchers. Those are pretty easy in reality.

For the most part if you take it apart and put it back together using the same shims to get you started you are going to be pretty close. Or that is the case for me. I usually re-use the oil slinger behind the pinion bearing if at all possible. In every gear change I have done, I have not had one fail ever. And on one of my blazers I had would change rear carriers with a welded carrier and mismatch the ring gear. It was never noisy nor ever blew up. I think people are afraid of it, for the most part, but I think they are pretty forgiving too. Not to say that you can't screw it up, but I think the first time you do it you are so meticulous you will get it pretty close to perfect.

For me if you get the pattern right, and the torques right they will last a long time. The hardest part for me is crushing or not over crushing the crush sleeve. Especially if you are doing this at home, without a good air compressor. It is really hard to get the crush sleeve to start the crush but once it starts it is nothing to over crush it. I get it to start to crush then measure the turning diameter with an inch pound torque wrench. If it is too tight, I start over with a new crush sleeve. That I think is the most important thing to get right, because if it is too tight the pinion bearings will wear out prematurely or get hot and smoke the fluid. And checking the pattern when you are done. You want the pinion depth right and the ring gear in the pinion right.

I saw a youtube video where a guy crushed a crush sleeve with some channel locks, a socket on a breaker bar, and a floor jack. I think I am going to use that technique the next time. it seems like it will be strong enough and slow enough to get it the first time.

For me I don't have a press, I usually cut off the old bearings with a die grinder, and pound the new ones on with race drivers and sockets. But the most important tool would be a inch pound torque wrench for measuring the turning torque of the pinion.

I am sure people will argue with me, and tell me that it is super important for it to be critically put together, but I have done a ton of these, and some of them I threw together to get back on the road, most I have done on my back in the garage, and none have ever left me stranded. I can only tell you about my experiences though.

I will tell you if you do it yourself, and it works, there is nothing like the sense of accomplishment.

This assumes you are mechanically inclined. if you don't understand how a differential works, I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself, but if you normally work on your rig yourself, I do think this is something a back yard mechanic can do or figure out. Especially as someone mentioned before with all of the videos out there.
The only thing that worries me is not knowing what the pattern should look like. Nothing like having someone else look at it with you. I would be guessing, barred on what I've read.
 
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Learned something new today. The factory low pinion dana 30 used the oil slinger as the shim. So after fighting all day trying to get my pinion depth set right now i need to take the slinger and mill it down. Thankfully im not in a rush
 
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Learned something new today. The factory low pinion dana 30 used the oil slinger as the shim. So after fighting all day trying to get my pinion depth set right now i need to take the slinger and mill it down. Thankfully im not in a rush
Haha did you read my post earlier? I always re-use the original oil slinger. It also sets the pinion depth. I probably should have iterated that better.
 
The only thing that worries me is not knowing what the pattern should look like. Nothing like having someone else look at it with you. I would be guessing, barred on what I've read.

The correct pattern can be found in your service manual or online. Your master kit will come with some kind of prussion(sp) paste You will paint that on the teeth and rotate the pinion. It will paint your ring gear in a few different places so you can see the pattern. If you start with what was already there you will be close, so there will only be small changes you should have to make. I never tear apart a diff and start fresh. I will add or subtract to what is there. It is fine to change to all new shims if you like, but I will start with what size is there and adjust as necessary.

Full Disclaimer. I have only done this professionally a few times, but I did it a lot in my garage. I have also installed front and rear ARB;s in my Dana 30 Dana 35 then later on my rear 8.8.

I think I am going to try a elocker next in my TJ, with S35s and 4:56's hopefully by the end of the year.