What did you do to your TJ today?

[KCsTJ]

@ac_ have you ever looked at Ox lockers?

I don't see them mentioned much, any idea why or do you have an opinion on Ox manual lockers ?

 

[Boinked]

Haha did you read my post earlier? I always re-use the original oil slinger. It also sets the pinion depth. I probably should have iterated that better.

Problem is the original oil slinger is way to thick for the new pinion. The master install kit did not come with one. As this is the first time i am doing gears i didn't give it a second thought and just presses the new barring on the lod oil slinger. After reading forums and watching YouTube for weeks before i had never seen anything about it being the factory sim. The thing that strikes me as odd. I can not find a oil slinger for a dana 30 low pinion. When i use my vehicle in the filter.

Thoughts on removing it completely and just use shims behind the race?

 

[ac_]

@ac_ have you ever looked at Ox lockers?

I don't see them mentioned much, any idea why or do you have an opinion on Ox manual lockers ?

I honestly have never used one nor set one up, but for my opinion, I think the locker is probably good the weak link is the cable that actuates it. I would think there is too many variables in setting up the cables. First if you are going to run one in the front and the rear that is two cables and shifters you have to run in the cab and try and figure out how to make it look nice and functional. Then the cables have to go from the cap to the diff covers and you can't just make 90 degree angles. So it may be tough to keep it away from the exhaust or getting it caught up on something while wheeling, where as a elocker or arb the lines can run down electrical harnesses or brake lines.

That is my opinion. I haven't actually heard anything bad about them as a locker. I think if they could be remotely actuated like with an electric servo or maybe wireless? I might look into it but for me, my biggest issue is running the cables.

Plus the cables are expensive and wear out. If you route your wires and air lines right for the elocker and arb respectively I believe they will last longer than the cables in my opinion.

The draw back for the ARB is the expense of the air compressor, but not necessary if you already have onboard air.

I think I am going to try the elocker my next round because, one it is slightly cheaper than the ARB, and not necessary to buy the compressor, and two I have never ran one before.

Also another plus for the elocker is if you do happen to ruin an electric wire if yo have spare wire you can do a trail repair. If you happen to blow a line for the ARB (Although I never have) It is a much harder trail repair, but still not impossible if you carry parts and tools. Honeslty I ran ARB;s in my YJ with 4:56 gears for 10 years and never once had an issue with it. They worked every time and were dependable. And when you have them they are pretty amazing, but it does take a lot of the challenge out of wheeling haha.

Now that is just my opinion.

I think the ox locker is probably capable. I just don't want to mess with the cable is all. I an not sure where I would run a cable into the cab. Not really running a cable but where to put another shifter.

 

[KCsTJ]

I honestly have never used one nor set one up, but for my opinion, I think the locker is probably good the weak link is the cable that actuates it. I would think there is too many variables in setting up the cables. First if you are going to run one in the front and the rear that is two cables and shifters you have to run in the cab and try and figure out how to make it look nice and functional. Then the cables have to go from the cap to the diff covers and you can't just make 90 degree angles. So it may be tough to keep it away from the exhaust or getting it caught up on something while wheeling, where as a elocker or arb the lines can run down electrical harnesses or brake lines.

That is my opinion. I haven't actually heard anything bad about them as a locker. I think if they could be remotely actuated like with an electric servo or maybe wireless? I might look into it but for me, my biggest issue is running the cables.

Plus the cables are expensive and wear out. If you route your wires and air lines right for the elocker and arb respectively I believe they will last longer than the cables in my opinion.

The draw back for the ARB is the expense of the air compressor, but not necessary if you already have onboard air.

I think I am going to try the elocker my next round because, one it is slightly cheaper than the ARB, and not necessary to buy the compressor, and two I have never ran one before.

Also another plus for the elocker is if you do happen to ruin an electric wire if yo have spare wire you can do a trail repair. If you happen to blow a line for the ARB (Although I never have) It is a much harder trail repair, but still not impossible if you carry parts and tools. Honeslty I ran ARB;s in my YJ with 4:56 gears for 10 years and never once had an issue with it. They worked every time and were dependable. And when you have them they are pretty amazing, but it does take a lot of the challenge out of wheeling haha.

Now that is just my opinion.

I think the ox locker is probably capable. I just don't want to mess with the cable is all. I an not sure where I would run a cable into the cab. Not really running a cable but where to put another shifter.

Thank you, thats great info ac_ !

 

[ac_]

Problem is the original oil slinger is way to thick for the new pinion. The master install kit did not come with one. As this is the first time i am doing gears i didn't give it a second thought and just presses the new barring on the lod oil slinger. After reading forums and watching YouTube for weeks before i had never seen anything about it being the factory sim. The thing that strikes me as odd. I can not find a oil slinger for a dana 30 low pinion. When i use my vehicle in the filter.

Thoughts on removing it completely and just use shims behind the race?

Honestly I have never ran into a slinger that was too thick. If that is the case, I would think you can run a shim, but you want want that is the same diameter as the slinger because it is also a slinger. haha. so no

But I did find this:
https://ktperformance.net/i-2264912...inner-92-06-jeep-wrangler-tj-for-dana-30.html

How far off is your pattern with your thick slinger? I mean is it so far off you can't run with it thick? Are you sure your bearing is pressed on all of the way? What brand of gears are you using?

 

[Boinked]

Honestly I have never ran into a slinger that was too thick. If that is the case, I would think you can run a shim, but you want want that is the same diameter as the slinger because it is also a slinger. haha. so no

But I did find this:
https://ktperformance.net/i-2264912...inner-92-06-jeep-wrangler-tj-for-dana-30.html

How far off is your pattern with your thick slinger? I mean is it so far off you can't run with it thick? Are you sure your bearing is pressed on all of the way? What brand of gears are you using?

When you read lower it says
SKU: BKGF16512.58
Inner Pinion Oil Slinger for Dana 30, 1999-2006 Wrangler, 1992-2001 Cherokee

Im running a 1997. That is what im finding everywhere i look. I might have to make a couple phone calls today.

Right now i get a fine line at the bottom and 0 backlash. Even without shims on one side of the carrior. (All on the right side) nothing i do seems to get any pattern and only a lot of binding.
After work today im going to remove the oil slinger and use shims to at least get a good pattern. Then ill have the oil slinger milled down to the right thickness. ( well the is my plan at least) we will see how it goes tonight.

 

[Clint]

You have a skeleton leg hanging on the wall. You didn't kill any body did you?

Lol, funny you noticed that, i also have one on the front of my jeep!

 

[divit250r]

When you read lower it says
SKU: BKGF16512.58
Inner Pinion Oil Slinger for Dana 30, 1999-2006 Wrangler, 1992-2001 Cherokee

Im running a 1997. That is what im finding everywhere i look. I might have to make a couple phone calls today.

Right now i get a fine line at the bottom and 0 backlash. Even without shims on one side of the carrior. (All on the right side) nothing i do seems to get any pattern and only a lot of binding.
After work today im going to remove the oil slinger and use shims to at least get a good pattern. Then ill have the oil slinger milled down to the right thickness. ( well the is my plan at least) we will see how it goes tonight.

Just curious, did you pull the pinion races out of the housing? Possible there are shims behind the large race? Been two years since I regeared my 97 and I can't remember if there was anything under the race. Just a thought.

 

[Boinked]

Just curious, did you pull the pinion races out of the housing? Possible there are shims behind the large race? Been two years since I regeared my 97 and I can't remember if there was anything under the race. Just a thought.

I replaced the races. no shims in there. no shims at all when i removed the pinion. only the oil slinger. That should have been my first clue.

 

[divit250r]

I replaced the races. no shims in there. no shims at all when i removed the pinion. only the oil slinger. That should have been my first clue.

I took the stock bearings and ground them into setup bearings so I could slip them on and off the pinion and carrier to get the shim stacks I needed. All I remember about the slinger is that it was a really big diameter compared to others I'd seen from threads here, but the thickness didn't cause me any problems.

 

[Boinked]

I took the stock bearings and ground them into setup bearings so I could slip them on and off the pinion and carrier to get the shim stacks I needed. All I remember about the slinger is that it was a really big diameter compared to others I'd seen from threads here, but the thickness didn't cause me any problems.

i have a setup barring for the pinion.Do to my lack of thinking all the way through i though hay no shime all just press the good barring on there. but now im going to remove it and install the setup barring.

 

[ac_]

When you read lower it says
SKU: BKGF16512.58
Inner Pinion Oil Slinger for Dana 30, 1999-2006 Wrangler, 1992-2001 Cherokee

Im running a 1997. That is what im finding everywhere i look. I might have to make a couple phone calls today.

Right now i get a fine line at the bottom and 0 backlash. Even without shims on one side of the carrior. (All on the right side) nothing i do seems to get any pattern and only a lot of binding.
After work today im going to remove the oil slinger and use shims to at least get a good pattern. Then ill have the oil slinger milled down to the right thickness. ( well the is my plan at least) we will see how it goes tonight.

Oh shit, I didn't know what year your jeep was, but I missed that anyway. Mine is a 98 so I would be in the same boat. That is crazy about your shims. Were there shims on both sides when you removed the carrier? I mean you shoudn't be that far off? By chance did you get thick gears to go on a small carrier? Meaning do you have 3:08 carrier and running thick gears instead of changing the carrier. I have honestly never done that before.

Something seems fishy here.

 

[Boinked]

Oh shit, I didn't know what year your jeep was, but I missed that anyway. Mine is a 98 so I would be in the same boat. That is crazy about your shims. Were there shims on both sides when you removed the carrier? I mean you shoudn't be that far off? By chance did you get thick gears to go on a small carrier? Meaning do you have 3:08 carrier and running thick gears instead of changing the carrier. I have honestly never done that before.

Something seems fishy here.

the carrior had shims on both sides under the barrings. and when placed on the new carrior it fits like it should. VERY HARD to install.

I am useing a kit from Allen's Offroad. He called me direct after i placed my order to make sure of my year and setup.I couldn't belive the service ( shameless plug) I have no doubt that i have the right equipment. I ordered everything rings and install kits and carriors both front and rear. The rear went in no problems. but the rear Dana 35 didnt have a slinger.

So by process of elimination it had to be that oil slinger. When i get home today im going to pull it out and caliper it. i have found a couple people on other forums say they had to sand thiers down to get it to work. Im just going to have mine milled. if i need it. still going to pull the factory service manual and see what it says. ( I should have started there first)

Found this in the service manual: Compensation for pinion depth variance is achieved with a select shim/oil slinger. The shims are placed between the rear pinion bearing and the pinion gear head (Fig. 2). If a new gear set is being installed, note the depth variance etched into both the original and replacement pinion. Add or subtract this number from the thickness of the original depth shim/oil slinger to compensate for the difference in the depth variances.

so the oil slinger is the shim. looks like im going to have to cut it down and use shime behind the race to do my final ajustments.

 

[ac_]

the carrior had shims on both sides under the barrings. and when placed on the new carrior it fits like it should. VERY HARD to install.

I am useing a kit from Allen's Offroad. He called me direct after i placed my order to make sure of my year and setup.I couldn't belive the service ( shameless plug) I have no doubt that i have the right equipment. I ordered everything rings and install kits and carriors both front and rear. The rear went in no problems. but the rear Dana 35 didnt have a slinger.

So by process of elimination it had to be that oil slinger. When i get home today im going to pull it out and caliper it. i have found a couple people on other forums say they had to sand thiers down to get it to work. Im just going to have mine milled. if i need it. still going to pull the factory service manual and see what it says. ( I should have started there first)

Found this in the service manual: Compensation for pinion depth variance is achieved with a select shim/oil slinger. The shims are placed between the rear pinion bearing and the pinion gear head (Fig. 2). If a new gear set is being installed, note the depth variance etched into both the original and replacement pinion. Add or subtract this number from the thickness of the original depth shim/oil slinger to compensate for the difference in the depth variances.

so the oil slinger is the shim. looks like im going to have to cut it down and use shime behind the race to do my final ajustments.

Nice! sucks you have to go through this, but I am going to do mine later in the year, and I am going to order from AOR also, so thanks for posting your issue and fix. Have you talked to AOR about getting different sized slinger shims? Maybe he has a line?

Since you are plugging AOR, what brand of gears did you decide to go with?

 

[Boinked]

Nice! sucks you have to go through this, but I am going to do mine later in the year, and I am going to order from AOR also, so thanks for posting your issue and fix. Have you talked to AOR about getting different sized slinger shims? Maybe he has a line?

Since you are plugging AOR, what brand of gears did you decide to go with?

i went with revelotion gears with koyo barings. when you get ready to do your hit me up and ill let you use my setup barings.

 

[ac_]

i went with revelotion gears with koyo barings. when you get ready to do your hit me up and ill let you use my setup barings.

You're on!

If you are still working on it this weekend, maybe I can come over help, if my I am still waiting on my parts to show up. they were vague on when I can expect them. If they get here sooner, maybe I can test drive it over and help. Haha.

 

[Dawghouse]

I have actually done gears myself in every case. I did all of my full size blazer gears, and all of my jeep gears myself. I have done a number of Toyotas which are like miniature Ford 9 inchers. Those are pretty easy in reality.

For the most part if you take it apart and put it back together using the same shims to get you started you are going to be pretty close. Or that is the case for me. I usually re-use the oil slinger behind the pinion bearing if at all possible. In every gear change I have done, I have not had one fail ever. And on one of my blazers I had would change rear carriers with a welded carrier and mismatch the ring gear. It was never noisy nor ever blew up. I think people are afraid of it, for the most part, but I think they are pretty forgiving too. Not to say that you can't screw it up, but I think the first time you do it you are so meticulous you will get it pretty close to perfect.

For me if you get the pattern right, and the torques right they will last a long time. The hardest part for me is crushing or not over crushing the crush sleeve. Especially if you are doing this at home, without a good air compressor. It is really hard to get the crush sleeve to start the crush but once it starts it is nothing to over crush it. I get it to start to crush then measure the turning diameter with an inch pound torque wrench. If it is too tight, I start over with a new crush sleeve. That I think is the most important thing to get right, because if it is too tight the pinion bearings will wear out prematurely or get hot and smoke the fluid. And checking the pattern when you are done. You want the pinion depth right and the ring gear in the pinion right.

I saw a youtube video where a guy crushed a crush sleeve with some channel locks, a socket on a breaker bar, and a floor jack. I think I am going to use that technique the next time. it seems like it will be strong enough and slow enough to get it the first time.

For me I don't have a press, I usually cut off the old bearings with a die grinder, and pound the new ones on with race drivers and sockets. But the most important tool would be a inch pound torque wrench for measuring the turning torque of the pinion.

I am sure people will argue with me, and tell me that it is super important for it to be critically put together, but I have done a ton of these, and some of them I threw together to get back on the road, most I have done on my back in the garage, and none have ever left me stranded. I can only tell you about my experiences though.

I will tell you if you do it yourself, and it works, there is nothing like the sense of accomplishment.

This assumes you are mechanically inclined. if you don't understand how a differential works, I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself, but if you normally work on your rig yourself, I do think this is something a back yard mechanic can do or figure out. Especially as someone mentioned before with all of the videos out there.

You and I see things the same way on gearing. I have re-geared a lot of jeeps. When ordering parts I always order a couple extra crush sleeves. I use a socket on a breaker bar, I turn a quarter turn , and then turn the yoke, and check with the inch pound torque wrench. I've done so many I can usually tell when it is close. I make sure I have a good pattern on the ring gear, drive and coast. I've seen guys that over torque the crush sleeves put .040 behind the crush sleeve and re-torque to spec. I guess if your using two .020 it will work.

I will say I just finished gearing the 8.8 I built and I pulled the locker 9 times before I got a god pattern I like. First time I have ever had to pull one that many times.

 

[ac_]

You and I see things the same way on gearing. I have re-geared a lot of jeeps. When ordering parts I always order a couple extra crush sleeves. I use a socket on a breaker bar, I turn a quarter turn , and then turn the yoke, and check with the inch pound torque wrench. I've done so many I can usually tell when it is close. I make sure I have a good pattern on the ring gear, drive and coast. I've seen guys that over torque the crush sleeves put .040 behind the crush sleeve and re-torque to spec. I guess if your using two .020 it will work.

I will say I just finished gearing the 8.8 I built and I pulled the locker 9 times before I got a god pattern I like. First time I have ever had to pull one that many times.

Ya I have had pretty good luck myself. I like to take as much time as i need and work through anything that comes up. Although I have been pretty lucking I usually get it right the first or second time, with the exception of crushing a sleeve too much and having to get another one. When I do mine I will buy some extra's just in case. And if i don't use them I have spares for the next time! In fact I probably have spares from when I did my YJ. I should look to see what I have. I do hate the crush sleeves though. Worst part of the whole job for me.

 

[Dawghouse]

Ya I have had pretty good luck myself. I like to take as much time as i need and work through anything that comes up. Although I have been pretty lucking I usually get it right the first or second time, with the exception of crushing a sleeve too much and having to get another one. When I do mine I will buy some extra's just in case. And if i don't use them I have spares for the next time! In fact I probably have spares from when I did my YJ. I should look to see what I have. I do hate the crush sleeves though. Worst part of the whole job for me.

I looked earlier and I have 5 Dana 30, 3 Dana 35, and 2 8.8. ..The 8.8 I just geared is the only one I have had to pull more than three times. I think I was trying to get the lash as perfect as I could on my dial indicator

 

[Freakinatj]

I made brackets to mount my air tank on the top of my wheel well. It was previously mounted on a piece of plywood.