What did you do to your TJ today?

Order came in fast for some better Dana 44 diff cover bolts from boltdepot.com

Hate the huge shoulders on the factory hex bolts they wont work with my local Jeep shop’s diff covers.

Plus, I much prefer all black zinc coated hardware and allen head bolts. It looks way better IMO.
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Took me a month and half of Sundays, but I'm very happy with the way this turned out. Totally bomber, fastened to the tub and hopefully weatherproof. Also tight and secure - good fitment with no rattles or noise. Now the fun part - organizing and loading it up. Current plan is for recovery, tools and parts on the right, and general camp box, kitchen, etc. on the left. Also thinking about some sort of cargo net hanging from the top for soft goods, jackets and such. Who says you can't overland in a TJ?!
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Did you just drill and bolt to tub? Nice job.
 
Took off the Tire Carrier, sanded and painted it... Getting ready for mounting new tires and new to me wheels later this week.



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Did you only use the Rustoleum Rust Reformer? If so, how many coats? If you only use that product with one coat, a second coat is required, or a top coat of regular paint.

I painted my interior floor board with the Rustoleum Rust Reformer after sanding, wire brushing and hitting the rusty areas with Phosphoric Acid. Later that day I was pondering if I had made a mistake by covering both the rusted and non rusted surfaces with the rust reformer.

I reached out to to Rustoleum for clarification and this is the response which put my mind at ease: "Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support. We appreciate your use of our Rust Reformer coating. The spray version of Rust Reformer will have no negative effect on the non rusted surfaces. Please note that a minimum of two coats is recommend if no top coat is being applied."

Hopefully this tad bit of information will help someone in the future.
 
What made you choose the old style long output versus the super short newer versions?

I picked that SYE for $100 from a guy who got it when he bought an LJ and the PO had it lying around new in box from 2006. All in, the case and the SYE for $200. And now it waits to installed.


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Did you only use the Rustoleum Rust Reformer? If so, how many coats? If you only use that product with one coat, a second coat is required, or a top coat of regular paint.

I painted my interior floor board with the Rustoleum Rust Reformer after sanding, wire brushing and hitting the rusty areas with Phosphoric Acid. Later that day I was pondering if I had made a mistake by covering both the rusted and non rusted surfaces with the rust reformer.

I reached out to to Rustoleum for clarification and this is the response which put my mind at ease: "Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support. We appreciate your use of our Rust Reformer coating. The spray version of Rust Reformer will have no negative effect on the non rusted surfaces. Please note that a minimum of two coats is recommend if no top coat is being applied."

Hopefully this tad bit of information will help someone in the future.
Good thoughts. I applied 2 coats plus a top coat of matte clear...
 
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2006 4.0 Auto with 32’s and 2.5 lift

Ok so I installed the Eastern Cats but still waiting on my exhaust.
First off the cats seem to be made of good material except the flanges : brace they’re made of a softer metal. I tried to torque them down to specs but could not get to even 20ft lbs without probably damaging something and it’s extremely tight in that area making it even more difficult. The bolt started biting into the flange eyelid see pics, but I did manage to tighten them as much as I could they feel solid.
Tubing goes nicely around oil pan.

O2 sensors ports are well placed no issues. Flanges seem to make a good seal at the manifold.

Cats come in two sections upper two and bottom third.
In order to avoid drop tube being to close to shaft it has to be closer to the oil pan making the cat heat shield touch lines above. We’ll see if they still don’t hit shaft once I drive it.
Seems to be an issue for some

I didn’t need to drop front shaft nor skid plate to install.

Suggestions
Buy new bolts and inserts
And buy a band not a clamp just Incase you need to remove it later.
My cats didn’t come with any clamps.
Over all I am pleased

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Did you just drill and bolt to tub? Nice job.

View of back end - tailgate. There are two existing threaded holes in the tub and I actually had the 13mm bolts that fit. I "fabbed" the bracket/strap out of leftover material from the cooler slider. You can see that I have the whole box sitting on the rear seat bracketry that was already fastened to the tub. That strap goes up and under the drawer and is screwed into the bottom of the box.
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View from behind passenger seat. Same material for the bracket/strap. Screwed into the wood deck and two self-tapping sheet metal screws into the tub. Same on the other corner behind driver's seat. I think it's very solid and secure. Additionally, when I'm loaded up for any kind of outing, everything on the upper deck will be ratchet strapped down to the tub rails as well.
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I didn’t technically do it, but I had my buddy weld a safety chain loop to the bottom of the bumper/receiver because I don’t trust my welding skills yet on important things. LOL

The brace on the under/backside of the bumper was mistakenly installed upside down when they built the bumper, so the safety chain holes were not accessible.

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That’s a cool effect.
Now you have to match the dash LEDs lol


I hadn’t planned on it, but I did it anyway. I like it, except for one thing. The needles are hard to see. We’ll see how much that bugs me before I go back to the cool white. LOL. I wonder if there is an orange glow in the dark type of paint it could paint them with?

Couldn’t change the transmission temp gauge I installed a while back. The LED is sealed in the housing.

It’s hard to get a good picture.

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I hadn’t planned on it, but I did it anyway. I like it, except for one thing. The needles are hard to see. We’ll see how much that bugs me before I go back to the cool white. LOL. I wonder if there is an orange glow in the dark type of paint it could paint them with?

Couldn’t change the transmission temp gauge I installed a while back. The LED is sealed in the housing.

It’s hard to get a good picture.

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While not a fan of the colored LED, I do like that it matches the radio colors.
 
The last few weeks Ive experienced a pegged volt meter, no starts, and dying. Both cables are towards the end of their useful life and keep coming loose on the battery posts. I placed an order from custombatterycables with the military-style terminals. I looked all over Denver and nobody had those style terminals. Plus, having them already crimped to the 2 gauge wire will save me from having to do it.
 
Going to flat tow the TJ to Oregon and back this summer. Since most states require trailer brakes, I researched what was available and installed a Demco Stay-In-Play Duo supplemental braking system.
Very well built unit. You pay a hefty price though ($1G) E-Trailer
The unit stays mounted and the jeep can be driven normally with it installed.

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The G-Force controller has to mount on the driver side kick panel area.
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The vacuum pump/operating unit fit nicely under the brake booster. I removed the flat plate and fastened it directly to the plate brackets with metal screws.
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Lots of fun mounting the braking piston to the pedal and anchoring it to the floor...
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Break away switch clamped to bracket in front of radiator.
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Plus, I much prefer all black zinc coated hardware and allen head bolts. It looks way better IMO.

I've had some black oxide cap screws rust fast, you might consider shooting them with some satin black if you haven't used them before. There are probably different types but those do seem like just regular steel black oxide.
 
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View of back end - tailgate. There are two existing threaded holes in the tub and I actually had the 13mm bolts that fit. I "fabbed" the bracket/strap out of leftover material from the cooler slider. You can see that I have the whole box sitting on the rear seat bracketry that was already fastened to the tub. That strap goes up and under the drawer and is screwed into the bottom of the box.
View attachment 92457

View from behind passenger seat. Same material for the bracket/strap. Screwed into the wood deck and two self-tapping sheet metal screws into the tub. Same on the other corner behind driver's seat. I think it's very solid and secure. Additionally, when I'm loaded up for any kind of outing, everything on the upper deck will be ratchet strapped down to the tub rails as well.
View attachment 92458
Oh man that's not going anywhere....