What did you do to your TJ today?

So the stripping between the painted frame and sail? Not between the sail and where the window rolls up?
The two screws holding the sail in are under the stripping that runs around the perimeter of the door.

Once you have those out, roll the window down all the way and you should be able to move the sail panel out a bit. That will show you the inner window channel trim that you will need to pull out. You won’t have to take the window channel completely out, just pull back the front part so you can get the panel out.

Hopefully that helps, I’d take a couple pics but I don’t have the Jeep here now.
 
The two screws holding the sail in are under the stripping that runs around the perimeter of the door.

Once you have those out, roll the window down all the way and you should be able to move the sail panel out a bit. That will show you the inner window channel trim that you will need to pull out. You won’t have to take the window channel completely out, just pull back the front part so you can get the panel out.

Hopefully that helps, I’d take a couple pics but I don’t have the Jeep here now.
Thanks I’ll give it a look!
 
  • Like
Reactions: fooey
Today I tore into my 03 dash, put in the factory type switch and relay for the rear Aux lights ...I like it except it doesn’t light it’s symbols, only has an in light. Really wish it did that..any body seen one that does that? Would have a 4th wire to the dimmer circuit.

Had a great time and glad to remember how a relay works again.

was short on wire and had to join 3 together to go from the lights to power out at the relay...got an idea on that. Will report back .

it went shiny in the pic, can’t hardly even see it.

image.jpg
 
Last edited:
Early last year, one of the first things I did after buying my Jeep, was to replace the blown stock front speakers with some pods and 5 1/4" Kickers. The sound bar already had some version of Kickers and the radio was aftermarket. I remember being underwhelmed with the fix. But it was better than it was. With all the other things that were wrong with this vehicle, any other mods/fixes would have to wait until the "done" list was longer than the "need" list.

The other day, I decided it was time to look into making it better. I isolated each speaker and took mental notes. Fairly new fronts sounded horrible and the as-bought rears sounded pretty decent. Didn't want to jump the gun until I knew it was radio or speaker issues. This morning, I moved the LH rear to the front. Just unplugged them both and plugged the rear into the front connector. Sounded good! Decided to grab some new speakers, but fell into the "upgrade" trap of trying to decide if I should just buy new fronts, or move the apparently decent rears to the front and buy some 6.5" for the rear. Decided to go with same size for ease of getting it all done quickly. Local, Bestbuy had them for 4 dollars cheaper than Crutchfield, so ran up and grabbed the part number that was in my head. Got out to the Jeep and found I'd ended up buying the 6.5" instead of the 5.25. Ungh. Oh well, going to run with it.

Put the old rear speakers in the front pods and mounted them up front while still in the parking lot. Plugged in the new larger rears and let them hang while I ran through the audio checks. Hmmm. The former rears in the front pods weren't sounding like I thought they would. The hanging rears weren't sounding like I thought they would. Unplugged the rears and drove it home.

Got home and mounted the 6.5" Kickers in the sound bar. Sounded a little different than the 5.25 that was in there. The rears mounted in the front pods almost sounded blown, kind of like how the other fronts were sounding. Wondered if it was something to do with the pods. If I pulled the speaker out of the pod it almost sounded better, clearer with more bass. As soon as I drop it back in the pod, it didn't sound so hot. I remember Zorba or someone mentioning drilling a hole in the pods and sound bar, just like the old custom subwoofer boxes of old. Drilled a 1" hole in the back of each pod, removed the polyfill and it sounded better. You could feel the air moving with the speaker mounted. Got the pods mounted and the grills on the sound bar.

The system had been sounding like an old handheld transistor radio from the late 70's or early 80's. And now it sounded like a boombox from the late 80's. Not horrible, but not the most awesome thing you've evern heard. I may look into putting a vent in the sound bar too. But for now, I'll live with the modest improvement.
 
Today I tore into my 03 dash, put in the factory type switch and relay for the rear Aux lights ...I like it except it doesn’t light it’s symbols, only has an in light. Really wish it did that..any body seen one that does that? Would have a 4th wire to the dimmer circuit.

Had a great time and glad to remember how a relay works again.

was short on wire and had to join 3 together to go from the lights to power out at the relay...got an idea on that. Will report back .

View attachment 200408

If You get a factory XJ fog light switch, or an early TJ fog light switch, you can take the actual rocker part of the switch off and put it on the XJ/TJ switch and it will light up the text or image on the rocker. I learned this from @Gavidoc a couple months back. I wish I had thought to mention that to you a week or so ago when you were asking about what type of switch to use.

The wiring color of the XJ switches were different but I have it written down somewhere how they transfer over to the TJ wiring. I got mine off of EBay.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...p-wrangler-unlimited.14995/page-2#post-679608
B94EEBFF-5CE9-4ABB-AFE5-9DC80F09665E.jpeg
 
Today I took her out to play! I’m no jeepin badass, this is only my second run. But I was pumped, last time I went out it was awful. This time I prepared, learned my rig in the last few weeks, and aired down. It made all the difference!
I can tell you guys had a blast...awesome.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dunkut88TJ
If You get a factory XJ fog light switch, or an early TJ fog light switch, you can take the actual rocker part of the switch off and put it on the XJ/TJ switch and it will light up the text or image on the rocker. I learned this from @Gavidoc a couple months back. I wish I had thought to mention that to you a week or so ago when you were asking about what type of switch to use.

The wiring color of the XJ switches were different but I have it written down somewhere how they transfer over to the TJ wiring. I got mine off of EBay.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...p-wrangler-unlimited.14995/page-2#post-679608
View attachment 200440
Hey Thanks , I’m on it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
My half door handle rod broke in the same manner. If you need clips I found these at Amazon with the help of this forum. They are a match but to me they bend much easier than the stock ones.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRTK8/?tag=wranglerorg-20
If you don't have clips at work, I got some of these from Amazon and they looked exactly like the ones that came off, but newer looking. Some of the reviews were not good, but they worked well for my installation. Haven't had to remove them yet though.

View attachment 200042
Someone else may have already replied on this, but...these work fine...once. If you later try to remove the panel they will break (I have had 100% failure on removal) so you will end up using a new one in every slot, every time you remove the panel.
It's the typical Chinesium Syndrome: They are pretty much crap but, because they are way cheap and get fairly reasonable ratings (mostly do to shills and people leaving reviews before fully dealing with the product ["fit great", "looks good", "plastic tasted just like the originals"], people will buy them 100 to 1 over a product that costs 20% more but is actually made to last.
I have started to hit them with a shot of PB Blaster dry lube before reinstalling the panel to see if that will help reduce the failure rate when removing the panels later...we'll see.
 
Someone else may have already replied on this, but...these work fine...once. If you later try to remove the panel they will break (I have had 100% failure on removal) so you will end up using a new one in every slot, every time you remove the panel.
It's the typical Chinesium Syndrome: They are pretty much crap but, because they are way cheap and get fairly reasonable ratings (mostly do to shills and people leaving reviews before fully dealing with the product ["fit great", "looks good", "plastic tasted just like the originals"], people will buy them 100 to 1 over a product that costs 20% more but is actually made to last.
I have started to hit them with a shot of PB Blaster dry lube before reinstalling the panel to see if that will help reduce the failure rate when removing the panels later...we'll see.

That must be why you so many for cheap. LOL
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJ Hunnicutt