OP
37x12.5 17s
I've got a Dana 50 on my 2001 F250. There aren't any locker options.
I looked a putting a 60 under it...and decided that if I wanted to wheel that bad I'd buy a Jeep rather than a truck that probably would cost $60k to replace with a ten year old rig.
-Mac
I’m just not a huge fan of factory Superduty front axles.
37x12.5 17s
Why? I mean, they have their fitment limitations, particularly on a SWB Jeep, but overall they're some of the most affordable options out there for budget wheelers. I'm not saying they're the right axle for this application or that they should be the "go to" option, but they certainly offer a lot of bang for the buck.
Just curious as to your reasoning or if you've had bad success with them before...
37x12.5 17s
I agree that they do make for affordable one tons. The issue I think most people have is the almost none existent driver side axle tube.
I’m also not a fan of the balljoints and would much rather have a kingpin steering axle. Love that they finally have a kingpin set of knuckles that accept 1550 joints and 05+ SuperDuty unit bearings, although, not cheap at all.
I agree that they do make for affordable one tons. The issue I think most people have is the almost none existent driver side axle tube.
I’m also not a fan of the balljoints and would much rather have a kingpin steering axle. Love that they finally have a kingpin set of knuckles that accept 1550 joints and 05+ SuperDuty unit bearings, although, not cheap at all.
In those axles, ball joints are a non issue recreationally. I replaced mine after 10 years of JV on 40"ish sticky tires but only because I was swapping on a different set of knuckles and not because they needed it.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but you might have equal or more ground clearance running 35" tires on the dana 44s you already have.
I struggle to see the value in the distance between the left side inner C and the diff controlling where the axle has to live under a TJ or TJ Unlimited. I've pointed that out to a few who I know that are considering them but get told that they are cheap and readily available.The driver side tube is indeed an issue, especially on the 05+ axles (at least on the 02-04's you can make SOME room!). I've seen a handful of folk retube the driver-side and even on ambitious guy who swapped tubes for use in a GM rig. I have also seen a few guys shorten the passenger side of an 05+ SD60, which allowed them to run an earlier (or perhaps an alternative) inner shaft (I think final WMS width was ~68").
I suppose it made sense when housings were not the crazy prices they are now. Our rule of thumb used to be that stuff like the SD housings are kind of a wash since you have to factor in you are typically buying shafts, lockers, gears, and some sort of mod to the unit bearings for both. That leaves the empty housing to balance against what the rest costs and if you have to change the width or move the inner C over, that also needs to be accounted for.I see a lot of folk using the aftermarket C's and Reid stuff, but at that point I wonder where the value starts to disappear and where it just makes sense to order a custom housing with the dimensions, tubes, and knuckles you want.
For sure - back when you could pick a set of SD axles up for $200 from U-pull It places, throw in a set of OEM F450 1550 shafts for $175 (though the OEM 1480's are beefy), and be okay with the fitment limitations (or have the ability to deal with them), these were more appealing. Now I see dudes selling these for $1500+ on local sale ads and just laugh...I struggle to see the value in the distance between the left side inner C and the diff controlling where the axle has to live under a TJ or TJ Unlimited. I've pointed that out to a few who I know that are considering them but get told that they are cheap and readily available.
I suppose it made sense when housings were not the crazy prices they are now. Our rule of thumb used to be that stuff like the SD housings are kind of a wash since you have to factor in you are typically buying shafts, lockers, gears, and some sort of mod to the unit bearings for both. That leaves the empty housing to balance against what the rest costs and if you have to change the width or move the inner C over, that also needs to be accounted for.
For sure - back when you could pick a set of SD axles up for $200 from U-pull It places, throw in a set of OEM F450 1550 shafts for $175 (though the OEM 1480's are beefy), and be okay with the fitment limitations (or have the ability to deal with them), these were more appealing. Now I see dudes selling these for $1500+ on local sale ads and just laugh...
I've made this point before but I can get CTM joints cheaper than most. I've never taken Jack up on his offer because I've never had a problem with the Spicer joints. Just never been one to solve a problem I don't have.
Solutions in the search for problems is a commonality in the Jeep and 4x4 world, is it not??
For sure - back when you could pick a set of SD axles up for $200 from U-pull It places, throw in a set of OEM F450 1550 shafts for $175 (though the OEM 1480's are beefy), and be okay with the fitment limitations (or have the ability to deal with them), these were more appealing. Now I see dudes selling these for $1500+ on local sale ads and just laugh...
And they are selling to rich people