What is the overall purpose of a body lift?

TreverStevens

TreverStevens

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So I'm considering throwing on a body lift while I'm doing all this other work on my TJ. What is the overall purpose of a body lift? Just a little more clearance for tires mostly? I already have a 4" lift, but wanting to do a "shallower" belly skid eventually. Since I'm already tinkering with driveline angles, driveshafts, and all of that I'm going to be trashing the skid plate drop that the PO put on. I don't plan on doing an engine mount lift because for #1: I'm doing an engine swap so the pre-fabbed options won't do me any good and for #2: I'm going to be running an electric fan so I won't have to worry about the radiator shroud getting tore up by the fan. The PO welded steps/rock rails to the frame and are nearly useless to use as steps due to the lack of clearance (see pictures). So I'm thinking that a BL will make these a little more useful until I can replace them with something more functional. Besides the cost (looking to use a JKS 1.25") and the little bit of my time to install are there any other downsides?

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I recommend the Savvy 1.25 body lift over the JKS one for two reasons:
1. The JKS picks squish when the bolt is torqued and they don’t net 1.25” at all spots. This uneven compression could lead to body damage.
2. The Savvy has better radiator supports that bolt in instead of popping in.

A body lift has several purposes:
1. Gains fender clearance in order to run larger tires without changing suspension geometry. Much easier to run 4” SL and 1” BL than 5” SL.
2. Increases clearance between the frame and tub to allow pretty much every component bolted to it to be raised up to increase ground clearance and protect it from damage. Examples include engine, transmission, transfer case, drive shafts, rear bumper, gas tank, rocker rails, etc.
3. Allows for certain aftermarket components that won’t otherwise fit. Examples include larger power steering boxes, extended range gas tanks, belly skids, engine skids, extended shock mounts, etc.

I recommend raising the engine over stock if possible so the driveline angles are better, especially if a raised skid plate is installed. Also, the higher the oil pan is relative to the frame, the less likely it is to get smashed
 
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Steel City 06 said:
I recommend raising the engine over stock if possible so the driveline angles are better, especially if a raised skid plate is installed. Also, the higher the oil pan is relative to the frame, the less likely it is to get smashed
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I might opt out of this merely due to the fact that the Advanced Adapters engine mount kit for my 5.9L wouldn't be super easy to modify to raise the 1" or whatever I'd need. And by driveline angles are you mostly meaning how the engine and transmission are angled (and then everything downstream from there plays off of that)?
 
TreverStevens said:
I might opt out of this merely due to the fact that the Advanced Adapters engine mount kit for my 5.9L wouldn't be super easy to modify to raise the 1" or whatever I'd need. And by driveline angles are you mostly meaning how the engine and transmission are angled (and then everything downstream from there plays off of that)?
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You don't need to position the engine higher to accommodate a body lift. If you're worried about the fan impacting the now 1" fan shroud, all you have to do is lower the fan shroud by 1" by drilling new mounting bolt holes 1" higher into it.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
You don't need to position the engine higher to accommodate a body lift. If you're worried about the fan impacting the now 1" fan shroud, all you have to do is lower the fan shroud by 1" by drilling new mounting bolt holes 1" higher into it.
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Not worried about the fan/shroud issue because I'm running an electric fan that will be mounted to the radiator as well as the shroud. So no mechanical fan to get lined up for me. Unless there's something that I've overlooking in this equation?
 
If your build would benefit from a little more room under the body, then a body lift may be useful.

Mine could not exist as well as it does without a small body lift. Many of the changes I have made are stuffed as high as they can go before needing to cut into the tub.
 
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The overall purpose of a 1-1.25" body lift is to maximize performance with minimal invasiveness, modification, effort and expense. Anyone who uses their rig where clearance matters, needs to raise the belly skid. That is easiest with a body lift as that allows the belly to go higher with less cutting and hacking generally. It also allows one to raise the frame side body mounts and eliminate the lift pucks there and just use the OEM body mounts. (one of the best mods you can do if you play in the rocks) Other than an ill founded distaste for some of the subjective aesthetic aspects of one, there is zero downside to a body lift and a serious upside.
 
mrblaine said:
The overall purpose of a 1-1.25" body lift is to maximize performance with minimal invasiveness, modification, effort and expense. Anyone who uses their rig where clearance matters, needs to raise the belly skid. That is easiest with a body lift as that allows the belly to go higher with less cutting and hacking generally. It also allows one to raise the frame side body mounts and eliminate the lift pucks there and just use the OEM body mounts. (one of the best mods you can do if you play in the rocks) Other than an ill founded distaste for some of the subjective aesthetic aspects of one, there is zero downside to a body lift and a serious upside.
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Never thought of cutting and raising the body mounts. Duh. That's Genius! What do you do with the two under the grill?

Need 3/4"? Just do it. Need 1-1/4"? Done.

Thanks for that.
 
StG58 said:
Never thought of cutting and raising the body mounts. Duh. That's Genius! What do you do with the two under the grill?

Need 3/4"? Just do it. Need 1-1/4"? Done.

Thanks for that.
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The grill supports stay where they are. It's the six under the doors that are the easiest to do. The rear frame and bumper can go up as well, but it's a lot more work to cut the frame.

One of the reasons I switched from JKS to Savvy is so that I would have a consistent height to work from in order to get rid of the pucks. The mounts are raised the thickness of the pucks.
 
StG58 said:
Never thought of cutting and raising the body mounts. Duh. That's Genius! What do you do with the two under the grill?

Need 3/4"? Just do it. Need 1-1/4"? Done.

Thanks for that.
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There is only one under the grill in the center. The lift puck stays there, no benefit to moving that around. You aren't changing the lifted body height, only the mounts under the doors. If you use the Genright set, it is set up for a 1.25" body lift although it isn't listed that way.
 
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I'm guessing the reason the JKS is listed at 1.25" is so once they squish down after torquing they setting in around 1"? I'm not crazy about the aesthetic look of a body life, mostly with the gap that is commonly seen between the frame and body in the rear wheel well like @mrblaine mentioned. But I wouldn't say it is enough to turn me away so I can tuck the underside goodies up enough to get rid of added in drops and such. Plus I think my "steps" would be more useable. Maybe that's just wishful thinking. Why do I continue to see the distaste for the JKS option? I'd be buying one from someone that bought on and never got it installed before getting rid of the Jeep, so I'm getting it for around $100. Worth it at that price point?
 
TreverStevens said:
I'm guessing the reason the JKS is listed at 1.25" is so once they squish down after torquing they setting in around 1"? I'm not crazy about the aesthetic look of a body life, mostly with the gap that is commonly seen between the frame and body in the rear wheel well like @mrblaine mentioned. But I wouldn't say it is enough to turn me away so I can tuck the underside goodies up enough to get rid of added in drops and such. Plus I think my "steps" would be more useable. Maybe that's just wishful thinking. Why do I continue to see the distaste for the JKS option? I'd be buying one from someone that bought on and never got it installed before getting rid of the Jeep, so I'm getting it for around $100. Worth it at that price point?
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The dislike for the JKS is from the material they used and that it can be compressed. I am running a MORE 1" as I installed it years ago when they were really the only game in town. While it is only one inch IMO it is still better than the JKS.
 
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Take apart a factory body mount (really called an isolator) and understand how the inner steel sleeve works in relation to the outer rubber shell.

Because of it's lack of rigidity, JKS undermines the ability of the factory rubber isolaters to ever reach full torque, become tight and secure the body to the frame. This weakens the combined strength of the body and the frame.

A rigid body lift puck made from aluminum, reenforced nylon, etc allow the isolators to reach full torque. The lifted body will perform nearly the same as stock.
 
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jjvw said:
Take apart a factory body mount (really called an isolator) and understand how the inner steel sleeve works in relation to the outer rubber shell.

Because of it's lack of rigidity, JKS undermines the ability of the factory rubber isolaters to ever reach full torque, become tight and secure the body to the frame. This weakens the combined strength of the body and the frame.

A rigid body lift puck made from aluminum, reenforced nylon, etc allow the isolators to reach full torque. The lifted body will perform nearly the same as stock.
Click to expand...

I installed the M.O.R.E. 1" body lift pucks, but also needed to replace the factory rubber mounts due to their age, dryness, and cracked condition. I mistakenly used the Daystar poly mounts, which I did not care for at all. Under minimal torque they compressed so far as to be useless. In fact, several of the smaller poly mounts for the rear, compressed so far that they squished out from under the large washer.

I was so unhappy with the Daystar poly that I went out and purchased a whole new set of OEM rubber bushings with the metal insert along with the MORE aluminum pucks and was thrilled with the result. The only "gotcha" was that the OEM bolts that came with the true rubber bushings weren't long enough to use with the MORE pucks, so I just used the bolts supplied by MORE and all was right with the world.
 
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TreverStevens said:
So I'm considering throwing on a body lift while I'm doing all this other work on my TJ. What is the overall purpose of a body lift? Just a little more clearance for tires mostly? I already have a 4" lift, but wanting to do a "shallower" belly skid eventually. Since I'm already tinkering with driveline angles, driveshafts, and all of that I'm going to be trashing the skid plate drop that the PO put on. I don't plan on doing an engine mount lift because for #1: I'm doing an engine swap so the pre-fabbed options won't do me any good and for #2: I'm going to be running an electric fan so I won't have to worry about the radiator shroud getting tore up by the fan. The PO welded steps/rock rails to the frame and are nearly useless to use as steps due to the lack of clearance (see pictures). So I'm thinking that a BL will make these a little more useful until I can replace them with something more functional. Besides the cost (looking to use a JKS 1.25") and the little bit of my time to install are there any other downsides?

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There are no real downsides to a small 1-1.25” BL, besides the one caveat some people have, aesthetics.

The pluses are you can

1) fit a larger tire
2) provide more room for a tummy tuck (you will need a MML though too)
3) allow room for raising your gas tank skid (free clearance)
4) provide more room for a larger spare tire above the rear bumper
5) be like me

Go for an aluminum BL like the Savvy

Ditch the electric fan
 
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lindsey97 said:
I went with the MORE 1" BL as well, very pleased with it. I like the steering shaft bracket.
Click to expand...

What does the steering shaft bracket do? I’ve not seen this in kits before and really like how mine is setup after my 1.25” - but maybe I’m missing out!
 
The overall purpose of a body lift is to tuck stuff. And savvy mid arm.
 
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