What lift should I get to run 33s?

[Unitize]

Since I got my jeep I've been wanting to get a good lift on it in order to run 33s. I want a good lift but I really only have around $1,200 for the lift it self. I have a 2005 jeep with a 4.0L with dana 35 in the back and a dana 30 in the front with 3.73 gear ratio. My jeep does spend a lot of time on the road but also spends a lot of time off the road, it's about half and half. I've seen a lot of people mention the OME 2.5" with a 1-1.25" BL but have also seen some people recommend getting a 3-3.5" lift w/o shocks and then getting the Rancho RS5000x shocks, which I would't be against either. Any suggestions on anything else I should look at?

 

[tworley]

I think 4" lift and 33" tires work incredibly well together. With that said, and at your budget you could run the zone 4.25 combo. Retain all the stock control arms, no need for a dropped tcase skid. Paired with a metalcloak, currie, or JKS adjustable track bar and you would have a pretty capable rig.

 

[Chris]

For that amount of money to spend, I would get OME 2" springs (with the 10mm spacers, so 2.5" total), Rancho RS5000X shocks, and a Savvy 1.25" body lift.

That will put you at 3.75" of lift, which is perfect for running 33s, and won't break the bank!

 

[jjvw]

Having built mine in several stages around 33s, I would argue for a total lift closer to 4". A small body lift with a motor mount lift will help with rear the drive line and minimize the amount of transfer case drop.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

For 33's, 4" is a good/appropriate amount of clearance. Personally I'd go with a Zone 4.25" lift which combines a 3" suspension lift with a 1.25" body lift. Zone's 4.25" kit includes the parts to correct drivetrain angles which means a low-cost installation without the need for expensive upgrades like a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) kit and CV driveshaft like a 4" suspension lift requires. The 1.25" body lift gives the additional tire clearance needed for offroading with 33's.

I don't run a Zone myself so I'm not recommending it just because I own one, it's just a nice low-cost kit that owners of it have made some nice comments on.

 

[bobthetj03]

3" springs, Ranchos, 1" BL, 1" MML, minimum 2" bump stop extensions on stock fenders. Adjustable front track bar and a relocation bracket for the rear.

Springs: $300
Shocks: $200
BL: $100
MML: $100
Front TB: $200
Relocation bracket for rear TB: $30
Bumpstop extensions: $50

Doesn't give you much left for tires.

 

[Unitize]

I meant I had $1,200 for the lift it self, not for the lift and tires. But these are some really good suggestions thank you all!

 

[Unitize]

3" springs, Ranchos, 1" BL, 1" MML, minimum 2" bump stop extensions on stock fenders. Adjustable front track bar and a relocation bracket for the rear.

Springs: $300
Shocks: $200
BL: $100
MML: $100
Front TB: $200
Relocation bracket for rear TB: $30
Bumpstop extensions: $50

Doesn't give you much left for tires.

I didn’t really word the budget part the best, I meant I have $1,200 for the lift it self but this seems like a really good suggestion thank you!

 

[Unitize]

For that amount of money to spend, I would get OME 2" springs (with the 10mm spacers, so 2.5" total), Rancho RS5000X shocks, and a Savvy 1.25" body lift.

That will put you at 3.75" of lift, which is perfect for running 33s, and won't break the bank!

So I kinda messed up with the wording of my budget and made it sound like I had $1,200 for the lift and ties when I meant I have that much for the lift it self. Would you still suggest this setup with the budget?

 

[Chris]

So I kinda messed up with the wording of my budget and made it sound like I had $1,200 for the lift and ties when I meant I have that much for the lift it self. Would you still suggest this setup with the budget?

I would still suggest that route, yes! The remaining money can be spent on a SYE and double cardan driveshaft combo so that you don’t have to put in a ghetto transfer case drop

 

[Sharpermd]

Sorry, really not trying to hijack this thread, but I have a somewhat related question. I recently bought an '03 TJ, and the previous owner told me it was not lifted. But it has 33 inch R15 tires installed! Does this mean it must have a lift installed? How can I tell? (If it is more appropriate to start another thread just let me know)

 

[catahoula]

Newbie here. Has anyone considered a type of high line flare? There seems to be several types of brands out there. I found a guy on YouTube that has Metal Cloak flares (although very expensive) with 35's on his TJ. Looks awesome. I currently have a 2011 JK and really considering selling it for a TJ/LJ. Enjoying this forum and slowing absorbing all the knowledge here.

 

[jjvw]

Newbie here. Has anyone considered a type of high line flare? There seems to be several types of brands out there. I found a guy on YouTube that has Metal Cloak flares (although very expensive) with 35's on his TJ. Looks awesome. I currently have a 2011 JK and really considering selling it for a TJ/LJ. Enjoying this forum and slowing absorbing all the knowledge here.

A trimmed flare? It doesn't make any difference in clearance. The factory flares are flexible. The limits at the body are the sheet metal.

 

[Unitize]

I would still suggest that route, yes! The remaining money can be spent on a SYE and double cardan driveshaft combo so that you don’t have to put in a ghetto transfer case drop

One last thing, with your suggestion would I need anything else? Like new sway bar links or brake line extensions and a new track bar (or relocation bracket)? Or will I be good without it?

 

[catahoula]

Not a trimmed....a highline flare. Poison Spyder, Metal Cloak, Barricade. PS XC are made to fit larger tires without a lift.

 

[Chris]

One last thing, with your suggestion would I need anything else? Like new sway bar links or brake line extensions and a new track bar (or relocation bracket)? Or will I be good without it?

With 2.5" of suspension lift, you'll be fine with the stock brake lines, track bars, etc.

This is one of the nice things about such a mild lift, it doesn't require all the stuff you'd need with a much larger lift.

 

[jjvw]

Not a trimmed....a highline flare. Poison Spyder, Metal Cloak, Barricade. PS XC are made to fit larger tires without a lift.

A high line fender, not a flare. Metalcloak fenders will give about an inch over stock for tires up to 35s. A real high line that requires cutting the hood will add at least 3" for much larger tires. Pay close attention to the back wall of the fender. That is the secret spot where MC falls short. GenRight highlines may be what provides the biggest gains.

 

[Unitize]

With 2.5" of suspension lift, you'll be fine with the stock brake lines, track bars, etc.

This is one of the nice things about such a mild lift, it doesn't require all the stuff you'd need with a much larger lift.

Thank you again for all your help, I’ve been stuck on this for months haha just need to find some spacers and I’ll be set!

 

[Chris]

Thank you again for all your help, I’ve been stuck on this for months haha just need to find some spacers and I’ll be set!

No problem, happy to help!

 

[JMT]

Newbie here. Has anyone considered a type of high line flare? There seems to be several types of brands out there. I found a guy on YouTube that has Metal Cloak flares (although very expensive) with 35's on his TJ. Looks awesome. I currently have a 2011 JK and really considering selling it for a TJ/LJ. Enjoying this forum and slowing absorbing all the knowledge here.

Uh, yeah, except they are highline fenders, not flares. And a true high line fender requires cutting the hood or finding an aftermarket highline hood like the AEV. But you can’t do much to make room for bigger tires with flat flares. MCE and MC may give you a little, but to run 35’s you really need 5” of overall lift. If you truly high-lined, you could probably run 35’s with just 2” of lift. Just cut your hood.