Wheel spacers (the thin kind)

freedom_in_4low

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Anything inherently wrong with the wheel spacers that are basically just a ~1/4" plate sandwiched between the hub and wheel, assuming the lugs are long enough? Theoretically it's a longer lever on the lugs but I don't know if it matters as long as they're properly torqued.
 
Anything inherently wrong with the wheel spacers that are basically just a ~1/4" plate sandwiched between the hub and wheel, assuming the lugs are long enough? Theoretically it's a longer lever on the lugs but I don't know if it matters as long as they're properly torqued.
Only real issue is long enough lug stud thread engagement.
 
Only real issue is long enough lug stud thread engagement.

OK. I can handle that. The context is going to the 4.5" hub kit and maintaining current scrub radius without buying new wheels. Currently have bolt on 1.25" spacers, so if I can drop an inch out of that and get some longer lugs to use with the hub kit, all will be right as rain (assuming my understanding is correct that the hub kit adds ~7/8" per side).
 
OK. I can handle that. The context is going to the 4.5" hub kit and maintaining current scrub radius without buying new wheels. Currently have bolt on 1.25" spacers, so if I can drop an inch out of that and get some longer lugs to use with the hub kit, all will be right as rain (assuming my understanding is correct that the hub kit adds ~7/8" per side).
That is going to be a hard no then. The lug studs in the hub conversions don't ship with enough length to take away a quarter inch. It can be done and be done in a way that is how they should all ship. I do it frequently. We take the bearing hub flange and have it threaded for 1/2-20 and drill the rotor with a matching pattern of 1/2" clearance holes. Then you can use a screw in stud with any length you like. You will have to get something like a 12 point flange head or Socket Head Allen since the holes wind up very close to the bearing and seal snout.
 
That is going to be a hard no then. The lug studs in the hub conversions don't ship with enough length to take away a quarter inch. It can be done and be done in a way that is how they should all ship. I do it frequently. We take the bearing hub flange and have it threaded for 1/2-20 and drill the rotor with a matching pattern of 1/2" clearance holes. Then you can use a screw in stud with any length you like. You will have to get something like a 12 point flange head or Socket Head Allen since the holes wind up very close to the bearing and seal snout.

Is hub-centric important/recommended/possible, on the front axle with a hub kit? I see lots of opening up wheel bores with hole saws, and the outside of the hub doesn't seem as precise as the machined rotor pilot on an axle shaft. My wheels have an 83mm centerbore so they're hub centric anyway. Nevertheless, if it's a thing I would entertain the possibility of custom 1/2" spacers with a hole precisely machined to fit over the hub and a raised pilot for the 83mm wheel centerbore.
 
Is hub-centric important/recommended/possible, on the front axle with a hub kit? I see lots of opening up wheel bores with hole saws, and the outside of the hub doesn't seem as precise as the machined rotor pilot on an axle shaft. My wheels have an 83mm centerbore so they're hub centric anyway. Nevertheless, if it's a thing I would entertain the possibility of custom 1/2" spacers with a hole precisely machined to fit over the hub and a raised pilot for the 83mm wheel centerbore.

I don't have a good way to answer that since we all know that there are bazillions of non hub centric rims in use with no problem. I'm not so much worried about it other than "If I have the option to do it a different way, why not?". I have no way to prove that is or is not needed.
 
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Is hub-centric important/recommended/possible, on the front axle with a hub kit? I see lots of opening up wheel bores with hole saws, and the outside of the hub doesn't seem as precise as the machined rotor pilot on an axle shaft. My wheels have an 83mm centerbore so they're hub centric anyway. Nevertheless, if it's a thing I would entertain the possibility of custom 1/2" spacers with a hole precisely machined to fit over the hub and a raised pilot for the 83mm wheel centerbore.

If it helps, none of the rotors for the 5.5" kits register on a pilot, they are all lug centric. When I do custom stuff where I shave down the back side of the hub flange to move a rotor out away from the knuckle, I put a shoulder in and machine the center bore of the rotor to be hub centric if at all possible.
 
I don't have a good way to answer that since we all know that there are bazillions of non hub centric rims in use with no problem. I'm not so much worried about it other than "If I have the option to do it a different way, why not?". I have no way to prove that is or is not needed.

that makes sense.

Seems when using bolt-on spacers, the hub centric gets a lot more important because if you have a lug centric spacer and then a lug centric wheel going on to it, you have twice the opportunity for slop.