Which adjustable track bar?

Riddler6.7

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I recently picked up a 03 Rubicon. It appears to have at least 4.5" BDS short arm kit on it. It doesn't drive perfect so I started looking under it more closely and noticed it does have an adjustable Track bar on it, but it is using a drop bracket. No drop pitman arm though thankfully. So I am considering changing the adjustable Track bar out to get rid of the drop bracket. Good idea i believe? I have heard good things about the metalcloak and Currie ones. Opinions? Pros, cons? Or is there a different route I should be considering.

Thanks for any input.

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Actually, after measuring it may be around 6" front and 5" rear? I read to measure the springs and subtract 12" from the front and 8" from the rear. That still an acceptable method?

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Measure the spring only, not the isolator. But yes, that is the way to see how much lift you have. There was a couple of recent track bar threads going. To sum up, Currie, JKS, Metal Cloak were the top recommendations, listed from most expensive to least.
 
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Currie all the way. I ran the front and rear track bars on my old Rubicon. Those might just be the beefiest and well built track bars on the market. Admitedlty I haven't tried others, but the Johnny Joints at each end is enough to make me a buyer.

They are spendy, but worth every penny.
 
Currie all the way. I ran the front and rear track bars on my old Rubicon. Those might just be the beefiest and well built track bars on the market. Admitedlty I haven't tried others, but the Johnny Joints at each end is enough to make me a buyer.

They are spendy, but worth every penny.
They definitely are pricey. I'm having a tough time deciding between the Currie and metalcloaks. I know that there is probably not a single person that doesn't like the Currie TB.... I am reading a lot of happy ppl with the MC TB too and saving almost 50%.... hmmm dang it

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Measure the spring only, not the isolator. But yes, that is the way to see how much lift you have. There was a couple of recent track bar threads going. To sum up, Currie, JKS, Metal Cloak were the top recommendations, listed from most expensive to least.
So looks to be about 5.5"... maybe once I get a winch put back up front, it'll bring it back down. The previous owner definitely had a winch on it before.

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They definitely are pricey. I'm having a tough time deciding between the Currie and metalcloaks. I know that there is probably not a single person that doesn't like the Currie TB.... I am reading a lot of happy ppl with the MC TB too and saving almost 50%.... hmmm dang it

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The issue with the Metalcloak track bars is that they use a heim joint on one end (the frame side) and it's extremely prone to failure. Why on earth they used a heim joint instead of one of their Duroflex joints seems like a big design flaw to me, but they have yet to explain that one (that I've heard at least). Many people have complained about their heim joints going bad every several thousand miles or so.

Other than that though, it's a good track bar. Though I think I like the Johnny Joint better than the Duroflex, as it's been around much longer and is used and all the professional rock crawling rigs from what I understand.
 
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I’ve had no issues in about 10,000 miles on my Metalcloak track bar.
 
The one thing I do not like about the MC, RE, or others with a heim joint, is they wear quickly. The heim really should be mounted vertically with the bolt horizontal. The way they are mounted for track bars wear them faster, plus they get more crap in them then say the JJ or even the stock rod end.
 
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The issue with the Metalcloak track bars is that they use a heim joint on one end (the frame side) and it's extremely prone to failure. Why on earth they used a heim joint instead of one of their Duroflex joints seems like a big design flaw to me, but they have yet to explain that one (that I've heard at least). Many people have complained about their heim joints going bad every several thousand miles or so.

Other than that though, it's a good track bar. Though I think I like the Johnny Joint better than the Duroflex, as it's been around much longer and is used and all the professional rock crawling rigs from what I understand.
True. I'm not a huge fan of heim joints... I have read that you have to increase bump stop size due to the size of the johnny joint... Not sure how much of difference that will really make.


So what is the big difference between the Currie and the JKS? Same but without Johnny Joints? Will have to look it up.

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True. I'm not a huge fan of heim joints... I have read that you have to increase bump stop size due to the size of the johnny joint... Not sure how much of difference that will really make.


So what is the big difference between the Currie and the JKS? Same but without Johnny Joints? Will have to look it up.

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I'm not sure about the bump stops, but someone like @mrblaine may know better than I would.

The real difference between Currie and JKS is that JKS only uses a Johnny Joint at one end, and I think the diameter of the JKS bars isn't quite as thick as the Currie ones. Could be wrong about that, but man those Currie bars are stout!
 
I'm not sure about the bump stops, but someone like @mrblaine may know better than I would.

The real difference between Currie and JKS is that JKS only uses a Johnny Joint at one end, and I think the diameter of the JKS bars isn't quite as thick as the Currie ones. Could be wrong about that, but man those Currie bars are stout!
Currie doesn’t use a JJ at both ends. Only frame end.

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JKS and currie both make good front trackbars.
 
Currie doesn’t use a JJ at both ends. Only frame end.

View attachment 34598

JKS and currie both make good front trackbars.

Their rear track bar uses Johnny Joints at both ends, I guess it's their front one that doesn't, which obviously slipped my mind it's been so long. I wonder why they don't use a Johnny Joint on both ends on the front track bar? At that point it's pretty much the same as JKS, just twice as expensive. Hmmm....

Well, I'm going with JKS this time around anyways.
 
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I have a MC front on mine. It is doing the job. The only thing that bothers me is that the heim joint developed play within 10k miles. I don't think I notice it while driving and I haven't checked on in quite a while. I still don't like it.

MC caught wind of me asking about longevity last year and sent me a replacement that is still on the shelf. That was nice of them, but it still doesn't fix the fundamental issue of running a heim sideways in that location.

Mrblaine has suggested a $75 FK rod end which ought to last longer. That's a good fix, but a Johnny Joint seems to be the real answer on the factory frame mount, especially if you aren't bump stopping just for the track bar.



2003 Rubicon
 
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I have a MC front on mine. It is doing the job. The only thing that bothers me is that the heim joint developed play within 10k miles. I don't think I notice it while driving and I haven't checked on in quit a while. I still don't like it.

MC caught wind of me asking about longevity last year and sent be a replacement that is still on the shelf. That was nice of them, but it still doesn't fix the fundamental issue of running a heim sideways in that location.

Mrblaine has suggested a $75 FK rod end which ought to last longer. That's a good fix, but a Johnny Joint seems to be the real answer on the factory frame mount, especially if you aren't bump stopping just for the track bar.



2003 Rubicon
Currie sells JJ separately. Wonder if it is possible to put one in the MC track bar?
 
I have a MC front on mine. It is doing the job. The only thing that bothers me is that the heim joint developed play within 10k miles. I don't think I notice it while driving and I haven't checked on in quit a while. I still don't like it.

MC caught wind of me asking about longevity last year and sent be a replacement that is still on the shelf. That was nice of them, but it still doesn't fix the fundamental issue of running a heim sideways in that location.

Mrblaine has suggested a $75 FK rod end which ought to last longer. That's a good fix, but a Johnny Joint seems to be the real answer on the factory frame mount, especially if you aren't bump stopping just for the track bar.



2003 Rubicon
Thanks for your input. Looking into the JKS a little harder now.

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Currie sells JJ separately. Wonder if it is possible to put one in the MC track bar?
I investigated that a while ago. I forget the reason why it wouldn't work. Maybe it was bump stop related on mine.

Does anyone wonder why a Duroflex bushing (or any bushing) doesn't work on the frame side?

2003 Rubicon
 
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With as much lift as you have, I wonder if you could run a stright bar when the axle is a full bump. Mine isn't a good example as I run tmr customs mounts at both ends due to a long arm and axle swap. But I have a stright stick of aluminum with a Johnny joint on the frame side and a heim on the axle side. I may ditch the heim for a polly bushing or Jonny joint at some point if I get sick of replacing it. But no reason you couldn't do it on the cheap with 1.5x.25 wall dom a couple of weld in bungs and whatever joints you like provided it clears.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
With as much lift as you have, I wonder if you could run a stright bar when the axle is a full bump. ...

A straight bar, regardless of the lift would hit the diff and also not clear the the lower mount. A track bar needs bends to get around all the stuff down there.

... I may ditch the heim for a polly bushing or Jonny joint ....


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

The reason a poly bushing won't work is the same reason other bushings won't work on the frame side.

2003 Rubicon