Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift
- Thread starter Wildman
- Start date
OP
Different types and amounts of the mix for different applications.
Looking at stuff online it says Argon is what is needed for Tig welding stainless.
OP
I looked at using the Mig to do it but thought I'd try out the Tig instead. Figured that no one will see it and as long as it doesn't leak I would be OK plus I've wanted to try out the Tig.
For me one of the harder parts is going to be operating the pedal since I am right handed. Coordinating my right hand to my left foot will be a TRICK.
OP
Had a nice long conversation with Carl from Jantz Engineering about my rear axle.
He's currently back logged at the shop and couldn't get to my axle until February or March at the earliest. He also recommend that I install a Super 60 R&P instead of the Dana 70 R&P. He said he has a gear manufacturer that has made a gear that is beveled slightly more to allow more contact. Some of the other information that came up was about setting up gear sets in a HP configuration. Most manuals call for .06-.08 of backlash but he has found that reducing this to .02 seems to help in not breaking the ring gear teeth as much. The other thing he said was that he sets the tooth contact deeper towards the root of the gear as opposed to in the middle which is the standard way of setting up gears. The thought is that as the gear deflects if setup normally it moves to the outside of the tooth but if setup deeper then as it deflects it will be in the center of the tooth. All this was really good information and I'm sure it's going to take me a while to get this correct when I regear the axle.
He also suggested that I install a load bolt to my housing and he machines the ring gear to allow good contact between the load bolt and the ring gear.
He's currently back logged at the shop and couldn't get to my axle until February or March at the earliest. He also recommend that I install a Super 60 R&P instead of the Dana 70 R&P. He said he has a gear manufacturer that has made a gear that is beveled slightly more to allow more contact. Some of the other information that came up was about setting up gear sets in a HP configuration. Most manuals call for .06-.08 of backlash but he has found that reducing this to .02 seems to help in not breaking the ring gear teeth as much. The other thing he said was that he sets the tooth contact deeper towards the root of the gear as opposed to in the middle which is the standard way of setting up gears. The thought is that as the gear deflects if setup normally it moves to the outside of the tooth but if setup deeper then as it deflects it will be in the center of the tooth. All this was really good information and I'm sure it's going to take me a while to get this correct when I regear the axle.
He also suggested that I install a load bolt to my housing and he machines the ring gear to allow good contact between the load bolt and the ring gear.
OP
Alright time to go hit the garage and smoke a cigar while I reread these directions on how to setup my welder for Tig configuration. Then I'll watch a few more videos on Tig welding and then I'll cut some small pieces of exhaust pipe and practice on them.
I've always wanted to learn TIG, but never had anything, minus some exhaust pipe, where it was needed. I do have a Miller spoolmate 150, for my 211, that I'd like to try out on aluminum. Now you're giving me something else to do! 
This guy is on fire!I've always wanted to learn TIG, but never had anything, minus some exhaust pipe, where it was needed. I do have a Miller spoolmate 150, for my 211, that I'd like to try out on aluminum. Now you're giving me something else to do!
You must have seen me weld. I've literally been on fire!
You must have seen me weld. I've literally been on fire!
My wife got a second fire extinguisher, just in case!
When I welded on my hydro-steering brackets last year I had a floor mat on fire and a brand new welding blanket still in the wrapper on the bench. I do have a giant fire extinguisher.My wife got a second fire extinguisher, just in case!
I was a real dummy. Welding above myself, while laying on the floor. I smelled something burning, took my helmet off, and it was my jacket.
I had a brand new, expensive, welding jacket hanging in the closet. I now wear it!
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OP
Getting this setup is a load of fun.
The gas line connects to the cable for the tig torch.
Except I missed a step.
Then it connects to the - side of the welder.
Then you need to sharpen the tugnstin rod that goes into the torch.
So I bought this kit that attached to a Dremel tool.
We'll see how it works.
The gas line connects to the cable for the tig torch.
Except I missed a step.
Then it connects to the - side of the welder.
Then you need to sharpen the tugnstin rod that goes into the torch.
So I bought this kit that attached to a Dremel tool.
We'll see how it works.
Looking good!
if you have a belt sander, i usually just chuck up the tungsten in a drill and gently run it against the sander.
OP
I don't have a belt sander. This little sharpener works.
So far I'm a fail at tig welding. But that is what practice is for right?
I can always mig weld the exhaust if I need to but wanted to try tig first.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
The way I was told to learn to TIG is to start by just walking the cup and keeping a puddle going without adding any filler. Once you get comfortable with that then add filler
you can weld stainless with the mig. just need the right gas and wire.
it doesn't grab the other metals you wanna weave it a bit, but exhaust tubes would just be stackin tacks around the tube.