Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

jesseshoots said:
That's what I was thinking, as well as them being stronger in shear.
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I'll need to make a list of bolts & sizes so I can make a order. These are 5/8" for the high steer arms and 3/4" at the knuckles. I was already working on a list for other things so I'll try to make it all just one big order.
 
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UPS delived the RockJock parts for the front Anti-Rock. Now I'm just waiting for TNT Custom to get me the bushings.

20211230_113431.jpg


FedEx has the V-Band clamps I need stuck in ND. And no projected delivery date. :(:mad: I'm sure it has something to do with weather.
 
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i have a similar notch to run the drag link OTK.
i'd have to dam near cut through to fit any hi-steer slabs on top the knuckles and not give away up travel. i guess a bigger diff would keep me down some but IDK how much trying to use every last bit.

good job.
 
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someguysjeep said:
i have a similar notch to run the drag link OTK.
i'd have to dam near cut through to fit any hi-steer slabs on top the knuckles and not give away up travel. i guess a bigger diff would keep me down some but IDK how much trying to use every last bit.

good job.
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Thanks. I'll get better at these upside-down welds someday.
 
someguysjeep said:
it's havin it just hot enough to bite on that arc start, but not so hot it's very fluid.
once it gets that penetration bite it'll almost suck it right up there, takes a little practice, but it'll come easier the more you try it.
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IIRC Miller suggests 15-20% voltage reduction for anything other than a flat surface.
 
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Since steering has been the focus the past few days I figured it was time to finish these brackets up from Artec. They tie the knuckle into the high steer arms with this bracket. You weld the bracket that bolts to the bottom of the high steer arms onto this tube that bolts to the knuckle. To make it all work you have to drill the knuckles out to 3/4".

20211230_150030.jpg


Then for the tie rod they include these tabs that get welded on to make it a double shear.

20211230_150121.jpg


So I tacked them on with everything bolted up and then took them over to my table and finished welding the tabs on.

20211230_161602.jpg


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I'm guessing they stopped offering this kit because it didn't sell enough which is sad but I'm glad I got them before they were all gone.

Now I'd started out messing with the steering to see where I could mount the hyd assist cylinder and found out that I had more travel one direction than the other. This was the reason I decided not to use the GR pitman arm since it's keyed to the steering box while the flat pitman arm isn't. So I was able to clock it one spline off center. This must have something to do with the high steer arms. I'd noticed this on my last setup also so I'm fairly sure this isn't a issue with the PSC box or the GR pitman arm. And this was the reason for the tape. I measured how far it traveled one direction and then the other.

20211230_165726.jpg


So by clocking the pitman arm one spline to the drivers side I now have equal travel both to the left & the right.

20211230_165737.jpg



BUT now I have another problem. I think my drag link is going to be too short. Not sure what the rule of thump here is on heim joints threaded into aluminum. I'll have pull one out and see how many threads I have going into it.

20211230_165758.jpg



20211230_165809.jpg


But just looking at the amount of threads I have exposed I have a feeling I'm an inch to inch & a half too short. What say those who have more knowledge than me?
 
Wildman said:
Since steering has been the focus the past few days I figured it was time to finish these brackets up from Artec. They tie the knuckle into the high steer arms with this bracket. You weld the bracket that bolts to the bottom of the high steer arms onto this tube that bolts to the knuckle. To make it all work you have to drill the knuckles out to 3/4".

View attachment 299415

Then for the tie rod they include these tabs that get welded on to make it a double shear.

View attachment 299416

So I tacked them on with everything bolted up and then took them over to my table and finished welding the tabs on.

View attachment 299417

View attachment 299418

I'm guessing they stopped offering this kit because it didn't sell enough which is sad but I'm glad I got them before they were all gone.

Now I'd started out messing with the steering to see where I could mount the hyd assist cylinder and found out that I had more travel one direction than the other. This was the reason I decided not to use the GR pitman arm since it's keyed to the steering box while the flat pitman arm isn't. So I was able to clock it one spline off center. This must have something to do with the high steer arms. I'd noticed this on my last setup also so I'm fairly sure this isn't a issue with the PSC box or the GR pitman arm. And this was the reason for the tape. I measured how far it traveled one direction and then the other.

View attachment 299419

So by clocking the pitman arm one spline to the drivers side I now have equal travel both to the left & the right.

View attachment 299420


BUT now I have another problem. I think my drag link is going to be too short. Not sure what the rule of thump here is on heim joints threaded into aluminum. I'll have pull one out and see how many threads I have going into it.

View attachment 299421


View attachment 299422

But just looking at the amount of threads I have exposed I have a feeling I'm an inch to inch & a half too short. What say those who have more knowledge than me?
Click to expand...
1.5 x diameter minimum engagement is a good rule of thumb. So, if its a 5/8" thread, it should be 15/16 engagement (call it an inch). The jam nut helps a lot too...The extra surface area against the tub helps support the bending moment.
 
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Mike_H said:
1.5 x diameter minimum engagement is a good rule of thumb. So, if its a 5/8" thread, it should be 15/16 engagement (call it an inch). The jam nut helps a lot too...The extra surface area against the tub helps support the bending moment.
Click to expand...

OK so the the heims are 7/8" or 0.875 so they need to be threaded in 1.3125" or 1 5/16". So you're saying I can use the jamb nut as part of the tube when I measure how far into the tube I am?
 
Wildman said:
OK so the the heims are 7/8" or 0.875 so they need to be threaded in 1.3125" or 1 5/16". So you're saying I can use the jamb nut as part of the tube when I measure how far into the tube I am?
Click to expand...
No, I would make sure that you have full thread engagement, plus the jam nut, since it's such a high stress area.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts
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