Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

With a center limiting strap (like yours) he can get 14” right? That’s what the bags allow.

The axle width and tire size may not allow 14" of flex, especially with the upcoming outboard. The limits and boundaries have not been fully defined yet.

I put a center strap on mine to catch the last fraction of an inch. From what I gather, Blaine prefers to not do that and makes the shock the ultimate limit.
 
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The axle width and tire size may not allow 14" of flex, especially with the upcoming outboard. The limits and boundaries have not been fully defined yet.

Yes even with only 10" of travel my rear tires were rubbing on the outboard shock mounts before. But I do have a better idea what I'm doing this time and a lot more help than I did in 2006. I got one of Poly Performance first kits back then.
 
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It shouldn't center in the wheel well at full articulation, it should be rubbing the rear part.
Wow, I’m behind on this thread. Don’t check it for a few hrs and there’s several pages of catching up.

@Wildman this may or may not be useful. Nearly full bump in this photo. Currie bumps are compressed but not completely.
6246992A-0F0E-461F-8CAD-677666808391.jpeg
 
Wow, I’m behind on this thread. Don’t check it for a few hrs and there’s several pages of catching up.

@Wildman this may or may not be useful. Nearly full bump in this photo. Currie bumps are compressed but not completely.
View attachment 167549

Yes I typed before thinking before. The tire right now is just touching the flare at full stuff. Going to check the other side tomorrow for clearance and if everything is good there I can move onto the shock crossmember.
 
Rear stretch only? I’m impressed if you had a tank under it. Was it the 11 gal. Genright?
Mostly rear but I always push the front out as far as typical good steering practices will allow. On that one, it automatically moved forward almost 2" from just centering the spring perches on the front axle tube. I don't recall the exact tank except that it is bigger than 11 gallons.
This may help with some of the tank questions.
1591325772712.png

This may get the rest of them.
1591325834061.png


1591325874325.png
 
Yes I typed before thinking before. The tire right now is just touching the flare at full stuff. Going to check the other side tomorrow for clearance and if everything is good there I can move onto the shock crossmember.
Good deal, seems from the skimming you’re making solid progress. I think bringing the axle forward 1/2” is to gain 1” of up travel was a good idea
for your situation. At the same time I’m all for sending it further back and cutting but your constraints are different.

Pulled mine out of the garage for the first time in weeks for alignment and exhaust. Should be picking it up tomorrow and hoping to do some camping and riding this weekend.

E594F290-F64E-451C-BBF5-F2D554D6C45D.jpeg
 
Mostly rear but I always push the front out as far as typical good steering practices will allow. On that one, it automatically moved forward almost 2" from just centering the spring perches on the front axle tube. I don't recall the exact tank except that it is bigger than 11 gallons.
This may help with some of the tank questions.
View attachment 167550
This may get the rest of them.
View attachment 167551

View attachment 167552
Was the front 2” achieved with the factory tracbar mount location or was this moved forward as I’ve seen you and @jjvw discuss?
 
At least I put up a picture. Now you want me to sneak into your garage and look for myself?

No I just know that you said that the control arms can't be lengthened by turning the JJ's out. So the only other way is longer arms that I can think of.
 
I don't
If the various part allow, yes you can push it forward. How did you move the rear back? Just do that to the front. Mounts can shift.
I think that the front mounts can't move forward but I've been wrong before. And I'm sure I will be again.
 
Blaine I'm sure it's me but I can't tell anything from that picture. If I was to stretch my front that would require new control arms correct?

I don't think that is a TJ axle. The JK 44 centers the springs on the tube. I'm also going to guess the green TJ doesn't have a factory frame side track bar bracket. All of that adds up to a front stretch. My plans to push the axle forward are similar in spirit.
 
I don't think that is a TJ axle. The JK 44 centers the springs on the tube. I'm also going to guess the green TJ doesn't have a factory frame side track bar bracket. All of that adds up to a front stretch. My plans to push the axle forward are similar in spirit.

And what are you going to do for arms? If you go forward 2" I understand about clearing TB & steering but if I am understanding correctly (Which I may now be) you can't play with the location of where the front mid arm brackets mount. So the only other way to get that 2" is to get longer control arms if you aren't suppose to have say 1" of JJ thread showing at each end. I'm not saying this is correct but it is what I understand.
If this isn't correct then I'd be interested hearing about it.
 
I’ll give Metalcloak one thing, they know how to make a wide flare look good. Haven’t see any other legal flares for wide tires that look nice.

Can you imagine having those 8" wide flares sticking off your rig trying to go down some of our trails? You'd be bending flares or body panels in no time.
I'd looked at going with either TNT's or GenRight armor and fenders with their 4.5" flare but then I remembered getting wedged between trees with my 3" flares and I was like screw that. So I'm hoping these MC fenders and corners work out.
 
Can you imagine having those 8" wide flares sticking off your rig trying to go down some of our trails? You'd be bending flares or body panels in no time.
I'd looked at going with either TNT's or GenRight armor and fenders with their 4.5" flare but then I remembered getting wedged between trees with my 3" flares and I was like screw that. So I'm hoping these MC fenders and corners work out.
No way you’re making it around with the flares on - not on our trails. Do you have the room to toss them in the back?
 
And what are you going to do for arms? If you go forward 2" I understand about clearing TB & steering but if I am understanding correctly (Which I may now be) you can't play with the location of where the front mid arm brackets mount. So the only other way to get that 2" is to get longer control arms if you aren't suppose to have say 1" of JJ thread showing at each end. I'm not saying this is correct but it is what I understand.
If this isn't correct then I'd be interested hearing about it.

I'll extend the arms .5-.75" on each end. Right now the lowers are almost all the way in. If I extend them far enough, I might stick another jam nut on the exposed shank to support it.
 
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