jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
What’s the purpose of hitting it with the hammer between welds?
Looking good though, and you filled that gap in really nicely
Looking good though, and you filled that gap in really nicely
Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift
- Thread starter Wildman
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OP
What’s the purpose of hitting it with the hammer between welds?
Looking good though, and you filled that gap in really nicely
My understanding is it has something to do with the cast iron being welded to the steel. But I don't know the exact reason why but it's what in the directions from Carl Jantz so it's what I did.
Edit: Here is what Carl said.
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peening and or allowing it to cool very slowly helps ease stresses in the metals.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
Got it! I knew you were supposed to do it when welding on cast iron, but never was sure why until now.
OP
When using a high pinion axle in the rear the ring gear trys to walk away from the pinion gear. So the load bolt helps to only allow it to move so far.
Makes sense. I only know about load bolts because the cast aluminum differential cover on my 5.0 S197 Mustang came with them (they are supposed to support the carrier bearings). In my case, I’m not convinced they are needed but in yours I’m sure it does make a significant difference. Welding steel to cast iron, though. Impressive.
OP
Well I got a diff cover with load bolts of the carrier caps also that I'll be installing on this axle once I get all the parts.
Currie offers the load bolt on their axles also. The ring gear has to be machined so the load bolt has an area to ride on.
And the carrier has to be turned down also. But I'm hoping it's worth it becasue I've broken 3 other R&P in this axle. If this one breaks I'm going to either get a RockJock 70 or a 14 bolt. I don't want to go to a low pinion axle unless I have to but replacing R&P sets is getting old.
HP rear for clearance and driveline angles, correct? Load bolt on pinion to compensate for the tendency of R&P to move apart when going forward on a rear application. Cool. Do you think the diff cover load bolts keep the ring more perpendicular to the pinion?
OP
Yes since it's a TJ and even though I've got a 4.75" stretch in the rear my driveshaft was only 23" long. So having a HP axle helps with driveline angles. And yes the load bolt is to try and keep the ring gear from being pushed away under hard acceleration. One of the other things I'll be doing is during setup I'll be putting the tooth contact deeper into the root of the ring gear. And instead of the .006-,009 backlash I'll be setting it around .003. This is all on the recommendation of Carl Jantz who has a lot more experience setting up HP axles.
And any help you can give the axle housing in not moving or flexing can be of some help. So by loading the carrier caps it can help keep the housing from flexing. Again this was on the recommendation of Carl. He makes a cover with load bolts also but he felt this was the better option.
Setting the backlash at .003 would give some play toward the higher numbers, which is advisable in any gear set (.006) because it will slack that direction, but even more so in a HP situation.
OP
Normal think is if your backlash is too tight that you'll burn up the gears which is why. 006 is considered a tight setting.
But I've got special break-in instructions from Carl to follow.
I've got my fingers crossed that this works.
IDK, I was just reading somewhere that it’s good to set them tight and run a heavier oil initially. Of course, I could be wrong, but the idea was that if you set them too loose that they fall out of spec in the .014 range and then you’re SOL. But what do I know? Look at you’re thread. It’s a lot of knowledge.
OP
While I had the welder setup I welded on the legs of the Barnes truss.
Do I close off the bottom of these or leave them open?
And then the open bottom.
What's everyone's thoughts?
Remember I don't live in the rust belt.
I guess what I don't know is there strength added if I close them up?
I've always setup gears in a 4x4 tighter than a street rig. But I've never gone below. 006 before. So this will be a learning experience.
And I'll change the oil at 200 miles and then again at 500 miles just to be on the safe side.
Do I close off the bottom of these or leave them open?
And then the open bottom.
What's everyone's thoughts?
Remember I don't live in the rust belt.
I guess what I don't know is there strength added if I close them up?
I've always setup gears in a 4x4 tighter than a street rig. But I've never gone below. 006 before. So this will be a learning experience.
And I'll change the oil at 200 miles and then again at 500 miles just to be on the safe side.
OP
Right now I'm back to being in a holding pattern until the ARB parts I ordered arrive. I'd ordered them from Just Differentials in Cashmere but they were closed last week for inventory so parts won't ship until Monday.
I'll get the axles done tomorrow. New lug studs and Set 20 bearings pressed in. Then when the parts arrive I can setup the gears.
I'll get the axles done tomorrow. New lug studs and Set 20 bearings pressed in. Then when the parts arrive I can setup the gears.
It seems to me, that the stress on the system is the axle tube tube pushing up against the truss. If that’s right, then the only way putting material below the axle would add strength is if you put a strap from one side of the truss to the other under the diff housing. Obviously, that creates a big clearance issue. So, I’d leave it as is. Just closing around the tubes will just catch water.
OP
Do you know where you'd read this? I'd like to read the article or thread.
Something else to note is that low pinion and high pinion act differently which is part of what I'm fighting here. A low pinion because you're on the drive side the ring gear isn't being pushed away from the pinion but in the high pinion because you're driving on the coast side of the gear it's being pushed away from the pinion gear. So this is also part of the reason for setting up tighter plus setting the pinion teeth lower in the ring gear. Most times you try to center the pattern towards the center of the ring gear tooth. But from what Carl was telling me he sets up his HP gears with the pattern more towards the root of the ring gear so as it's pushed away it then is in the center of the tooth. I hope I'm explaining this in a way others can understand.
It goes against everything I was taught about setting up gears but he's been doing this for a lot longer so I'm going to take his advice and try to do what he's telling me to do.
Here is his thread on the load bolt when he first released in over on Pirate.
https://tinyurl.com/2p8b53yb
OP
And here is his thread on gear setup. I'm rereading it again right now and we'll see what I can pickup for tips as I go thru all of it.
https://tinyurl.com/yme3d55e
And his video on the subject.
https://tinyurl.com/yme3d55e
And his video on the subject.
That’s a good write up. I love it when people actually do the work to document the effects of a change. Well done. If I’m interpreting it correctly, the deflection on the coast side is about 10x that of the drive side at a given torque AND the load bolt takes the coast side deflection back down to drive side-like numbers. Nice!
OP
And here are his video's on doing the Jana 76 (which is what I was going to try)