jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
What’s the purpose of hitting it with the hammer between welds?
Looking good though, and you filled that gap in really nicely
Looking good though, and you filled that gap in really nicely
What’s the purpose of hitting it with the hammer between welds?
Looking good though, and you filled that gap in really nicely
when anything but water cools off it shrinks. steel is more like a rubber band, nodular iron is like glass, if you glue them together and the glue shrinks, the glass will break, the peening stretches the glue.
peening and or allowing it to cool very slowly helps ease stresses in the metals.My understanding is it has something to do with the cast iron being welded to the steel. But I don't know the exact reason why but it's what in the directions from Carl Jantz so it's what I did.
Edit: Here is what Carl said.
Got it! I knew you were supposed to do it when welding on cast iron, but never was sure why until now.My understanding is it has something to do with the cast iron being welded to the steel. But I don't know the exact reason why but it's what in the directions from Carl Jantz so it's what I did.
Edit: Here is what Carl said.
What’s this for again? Load bolt to support pinion?
Makes sense. I only know about load bolts because the cast aluminum differential cover on my 5.0 S197 Mustang came with them (they are supposed to support the carrier bearings). In my case, I’m not convinced they are needed but in yours I’m sure it does make a significant difference. Welding steel to cast iron, though. Impressive.When using a high pinion axle in the rear the ring gear trys to walk away from the pinion gear. So the load bolt helps to only allow it to move so far.
Makes sense. I only know about load bolts because the cast aluminum differential cover on my 5.0 S197 Mustang came with them (they are supposed to support the carrier bearings). In my case, I’m not convinced they are needed but in yours I’m sure it does make a significant difference. Welding steel to cast iron, though. Impressive.
HP rear for clearance and driveline angles, correct? Load bolt on pinion to compensate for the tendency of R&P to move apart when going forward on a rear application. Cool. Do you think the diff cover load bolts keep the ring more perpendicular to the pinion?Well I got a diff cover with load bolts of the carrier caps also that I'll be installing on this axle once I get all the parts…
HP rear for clearance and driveline angles, correct? Load bolt on pinion to compensate for the tendency of R&P to move apart when going forward on a rear application. Cool. Do you think the diff cover load bolts keep the ring more perpendicular to the pinion?
Setting the backlash at .003 would give some play toward the higher numbers, which is advisable in any gear set (.006) because it will slack that direction, but even more so in a HP situation.Yes since it's a TJ and even though I've got a 4.75" stretch in the rear my driveshaft was only 23" long. So having a HP axle helps with driveline angles. And yes the load bolt is to try and keep the ring gear from being pushed away under hard acceleration. One of the other things I'll be doing is during setup I'll be putting the tooth contact deeper into the root of the ring gear. And instead of the .006-,009 backlash I'll be setting it around .003. This is all on the recommendation of Carl Jantz who has a lot more experience setting up HP axles.
And any help you can give the axle housing in not moving or flexing can be of some help. So by loading the carrier caps it can help keep the housing from flexing. Again this was on the recommendation of Carl. He makes a cover with load bolts also but he felt this was the better option.
Setting the backlash at .003 would give some play toward the higher numbers, which is advisable in any gear set (.006) because it will slack that direction, but even more so in a HP situation.
IDK, I was just reading somewhere that it’s good to set them tight and run a heavier oil initially. Of course, I could be wrong, but the idea was that if you set them too loose that they fall out of spec in the .014 range and then you’re SOL. But what do I know? Look at you’re thread. It’s a lot of knowledge.Normal think is if your backlash is too tight that you'll burn up the gears which is why. 006 is considered a tight setting.
But I've got special break-in instructions from Carl to follow.
I've got my fingers crossed that this works.
IDK, I was just reading somewhere that it’s good to set them tight and run a heavier oil initially. Of course, I could be wrong, but the idea was that if you set them too loose that they fall out of spec in the .014 range and then you’re SOL. But what do I know? Look at you’re thread. It’s a lot of knowledge.
IDK, I was just reading somewhere that it’s good to set them tight and run a heavier oil initially. Of course, I could be wrong, but the idea was that if you set them too loose that they fall out of spec in the .014 range and then you’re SOL. But what do I know? Look at you’re thread. It’s a lot of knowledge.
That’s a good write up. I love it when people actually do the work to document the effects of a change. Well done. If I’m interpreting it correctly, the deflection on the coast side is about 10x that of the drive side at a given torque AND the load bolt takes the coast side deflection back down to drive side-like numbers. Nice!