How far would it move the bag inboard to have the studs just inside the frame? That would gain the most up movement.
It would offset it way too much. I am going to stay with the adapters and make the supports like I mocked up.
How far would it move the bag inboard to have the studs just inside the frame? That would gain the most up movement.
Looks good. I assume you are going to have that reinforcement bracket on both sides on the frame? The cardboard piece.OK I played with ideas more and came up with this. Would like thoughts on this. It sets the studs under the frame with enough space to start the nuts.
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And has the lower spring pad about 7 3/4" from the frame.
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And then the upper control arm is just making contact with the tub.
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Looks good. I assume you are going to have that reinforcement bracket on both sides on the frame? The cardboard piece.
Yeah, also if you detached the lower bag mount first it would be pretty easy to remove the upper nut as you can slide it down as you unthread it. For when you need to replace a bag.
That sounds better, everything you need and nothing else. I’d do 3/16”s steel btw but I overbuild.Cut the top of the U off. Four short legs.
That sounds better, everything you need and nothing else. I’d do 3/16”s steel btw but I overbuild.
Yeah, also if you detached the lower bag mount first it would be pretty easy to remove the upper nut as you can slide it down as you unthread it. For when you need to replace a bag.
Cut the top of the U off. Four short legs.
If anything, add a thin strip along the horizontal plate, just tall enough to not get in the way of a wrench.
I'm still not seeing why the ORO bracket/adapter can't be trimmed to do the same thing as what is being fabricated.
That sounds better, everything you need and nothing else. I’d do 3/16”s steel btw but I overbuild.
Why not cut a hole/slot in the center of the mounting plate so that the air fitting can drop out with the bag? It looks like you're heading in the right direction with the brackets.
I agree that four smaller legs would be better than the U shape. Just weld along the three faces of each leg. Leave enough room between the legs so you can use a ratcheting wrench and turn 30*
Also, I would measure the height of the nut, add 3x the thread pitch (i.e. if M10-1.5, add 4.5mm), and cut the bag studs down to that height. Anything after that isn't necessary.
The hole wouldn't work to drop the air fitting out unless I could disconnect the air line first. And it would have to be a rather large hole. Cutting a slot makes more sense if I was to go that route. Does cutting a slot affect the strength of the plate?
I'm trying NOT to have to cut the studs on the airbags unless I absolutely have to for ease of replacement. I'm trying to make this as plug and play as I can if I ever need to replace the airbag while away from home.
The slot wont weaken it any more than a hole will. Make the slot just long enough to clear the air fitting.
Makes perfect sense. Do you plan on carrying a spare bag with you or would you be able to pick one up from the local parts store? If you're going to need to carry it with you, just go ahead and have it cut down to size before you pack it with your spares.
Forgot about the fronts being the same! If I was doing a slot to the edge I would make a bridge between the two sides that would contact the frame to help distribute the load there. something like thisI was thinking a slot all the way to the edge so I could pull the airbag with the air line connected which would make disconnecting the air line easier.
If I have a spare it would be with my tow vehicle not on the Jeep. The bags have to be able to fit in 4 positions so if I was to cut the studs to fit the rear then I would have have a second bag to fit the front. It would be like running different bolt patterns front & rear. Yes you can do it but then you have to carry 2 spares. I'm not losing that much up travel by leaving the studs full length.
Forgot about the fronts being the same! If I was doing a slot to the edge I would make a bridge between the two sides that would contact the frame to help distribute the load there. something like this
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