Woodrow's 97 Green TJ Moderate Build
- Thread starter Woodrow
- Start date
So much detail. Geez, so meticulous! Stop it already. It's embarrassing!
I THINK I'm close to where I want to be on the mechanical stuff. However, its possible Moab could alter that opinion. But I am finally starting to make a punch list for the creature comfort stuff, including the stereo.
Oh... here's a detail: labels for the locker switches
I THINK I'm close to where I want to be on the mechanical stuff. However, its possible Moab could alter that opinion. But I am finally starting to make a punch list for the creature comfort stuff, including the stereo.
Oh... here's a detail: labels for the locker switches
View attachment 428921
Show off. I'm embarrassed to post my locker switch situation. They didn't install it where I told them too because it wouldn't fit. So, without asking me they just cut out some plastic and put it there. The only consolation is they work.
I got the Next Venture frame tie in brackets, backing plates and rear bumper step/spare tire support back from powder coat today. I asked for my usual 50:50 black (half gloss/half flat).
I installed them this evening. Here are the tie in brackets:
The spare tire support/step fits well and no noise in back on test drive (yay).
I installed them this evening. Here are the tie in brackets:
The spare tire support/step fits well and no noise in back on test drive (yay).
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That’s It.
This completes the mechanical portion of my 33s build as conceptualized with the assistance of the expertise on this forum. The rig is stock-ish in appearance, using stock suspension mounting points, stock axle housings, engine block, trans and T-case. Within those parameters, it is a pleasant daily driver and is fairly capable off road. This “moderate build” will soon be tested in Moab. Pics to follow, hopefully not upside down or being towed. If it does well there, I plan a few minor livability upgrades (such as a better sound system). Otherwise, I’m happy with it at this point.
Feels good.
This completes the mechanical portion of my 33s build as conceptualized with the assistance of the expertise on this forum. The rig is stock-ish in appearance, using stock suspension mounting points, stock axle housings, engine block, trans and T-case. Within those parameters, it is a pleasant daily driver and is fairly capable off road. This “moderate build” will soon be tested in Moab. Pics to follow, hopefully not upside down or being towed. If it does well there, I plan a few minor livability upgrades (such as a better sound system). Otherwise, I’m happy with it at this point.
Feels good.
You're right. I think I'll just make it into a TJ-6 on tons and forties with an LS. I'll order the stuff at lunch and I probably should take off of work early today if I'm going to be ready to leave for Moab next week...
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OK that's it.... Can't follow your build anymore...
I'd say a 100* reduction in temp isn't too bad. And not having the header wrap which can trap moisture is an added plus.
Edit: I'm heading to Auburn today to pickup my headers & Y-pipe. Excited to see what it all looks like.
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Enjoy Moab. Really wish I was going to be able to make it too. Next year.
Well, 3 outta 4 good decisions ain’t bad…
I try. Hemi s win for the cool factor, but IF I were to V8 swap (something I've not done before), the additional aftermarket support of the GM platform alone would probably drive me in that direction. Other things like price, availability and even weight are considerations too. But hey, if the stars were to line up, I'd love a hemi.
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A few months ago, I thought for sure you would make it. Bummed about that.
Started to work on the Painless Performance Circuit Boss. I like the l location you chose, but I have an occasional water leak I have yet to resolve it sometimes appears to run down the inside passenger footwell, right where you mounted the unit.. so I have to find another spot (Or spend the time to find the intermittent leak…. Or both).
Where did you mount the inline circuit breaker?
I have that leak too and I spoke with another (former) TJ owner last week who had the same thing starting when it was new. He said his whole passenger footwell would fill up with water and he had to keep the drain plug out because of it. Ultimately, Chrysler actually took the Jeep back because of the lemon law. Anyhow, its on my list of interior things to sort out. I've read the cowl area may be the issue and plan to remove the cover in front of the windshield for cleaning and inspection at some point. If you figure it out, let me know.
I didn't use the inline auto-reset fuse. I ran heavy gauge wire (no. 2 welding cable) from the battery to the Painless aux fuse panel. My reasoning was the wire size should be safe from anything the circuits in the panel can draw and the fuses in the panel protect the individual circuits.
I get water entry from two spots. Down the firewall, which easily travels under the rug and even with the drain plugs removed soaks the carpet. I suspect this is coming from somewhere under the cowl as is often the case. When it rains heavy I also get a water drip along the forward bottom corner of the passenger door, dripping down the floor. It could be coming from anywhere around the door and exiting at the corner. Bestop all-weather mats catch a lot of this water.
While I had removed the cowl for inspection just a few weeks after I bought the TJ (two years ago) I found no debris accumulated and at the time wasn't educated on where or what to seal. My attack plan..
- I taped a piece of HD black Tyvek up against the inside of the firewall such that it drapes over the leading edge of the mat. It doesn't solve the water issue but it does redirect the water dripping down the fire wall onto the floor mat
- Silicone around the cabin air intake regardless of how clean it actually looks is high on my list
- Snake into the drain funnel that sits agains the firewall behind the valve cover. My thought here is that I notice after washing the Jeep water continues to drip from the bottom of the drain funnel for quite a while, leading me to suspect a clog there
- Replacing the door seals or snake a length of fuel line inside the existing weather stripping to expand
Interesting. I don't have any wire that heavy. Maybe 10 gauge max, but I think that is the gauge of the power feed in the kit. My battery area is getting cluttered up with the heavy gauge Big 7 kit, its' circuit breaker and the Auxbeam switch controller and it's resettable breaker.
I didn't read everything on the leaks so forgive me if this is repeat info, but I chased a "firewall" leak for years. I noticed on a newer Jeep being parted out that the seal between the cowl and the hood went from fender to fender where as mine only ran along the top of that lip basically. I swiped it, swapped it, and no more leaks. It's worth looking at if you haven't tried already. They are pretty cheap new.
The seal you have to remove if you're removing the cowl? If we're talking about the same thing, mine goes the full width of the engine bay...