This week the Atlas and 35s project finally got (mostly) buttoned up. The GenRight crossmember came back from powder coat:
That allowed the new underarmor to go on; UCF DIY 1” drop T-case skid in 3/8” aluminum and UCF 1/4” aluminum engine skid (braces also powder coated).
For once, a straight forward, bolt on upgrade (except I used counter sunk bolts instead of the button heads the engine skid came with which I thought would become unusable the first time they were drug across a rock).
Next, some important but tedious work; pull the springs and cycle the suspension to figure and fix clearance issues with the 35s. I don’t enjoy pulling the springs, especially fronts. I also pulled the rears and cycled but no pics as nothing needed changing.
Since the body lift was the only change, I expected this would go pretty well. My 4+ inch spring lift was well worked out with 33s. Mostly, it did. 2 things though :
1) I figured this was a good time to redo my bumpstops. I’ve been using Daystar poly bumps which extend 3 3/4” from the cups at all corners and that has been pretty perfect for my setup.
But, bowing to peer pressure, I decided to go with hockey pucks and foam bumps. But hockey pucks on the low side don’t meet the cup as well and would contact the spring a lot more
So, since I destroyed the old bumps and buggered up the cups, I bought and replaced new Daystar poly bumps and crown cups. With about 9” of shock travel with that set up, tire clearance is mostly good:
Except problem number 2)
The SwayLoc links were too short. I have BMB elevated sway bar link brackets on the front axle. With those and 33s, the ORO links were about 8” eye-eye. The heim joint ends were already at pretty minimal depth in the ORO center bar.
In the pic above, the 35s contact the SwayLoc hard in the full flex and steering test. Options are adjust the steering stops or lengthen the links. I chose the latter. A local shop cut some 4130 chromoly 0.875” bar 4” longer than the ORO bars (8.5” vs. 4.5”), drilled each end to 1.75” depth and then tapped for 1/2” x 20tpi. The new links were assembled at 11.25” eye-eye.
That gave barely enough tire clearance just below the SwayLoc arm at full flex/steer. Amazing that a tire with only 1” more radius needed over 3” more sway bar link to work.
Also note the super stubby bumper cut. I did that for 2 reasons. First the Swayloc hits it at max up travel and 2nd the driver’s side got smashed into a rock on the Rubicon last fall.
I may fab some beefy end caps at some point, but not today.
With the new links, I could set my steering stops at a more reasonable position, put the springs back in and get the Jeep off the lift and go for a test ride after 2 plus months of on-off work. It also got a bath due to all the dust, pollen and bat sh*t collecting in that time.
I’ve been daily driving it this week. Initial impressions are:
Feels bigger. Looks cooler.
Also slower. Need to regear. 4.11 was fine with 33s and the stroker/AX-15 but not with 35s. I’m thinking 5.13 but could also be 4.88. I may not get to that for a bit.
More vibes with the trans on the GenRight universal crossmember vs the stock style Anchor trans mount. Tolerable, though.
Everything works. e.g. Speedo is correct. 4x4 dash light works. Exhaust sounds good. No new rattles/wobbles/odd sounds. Tires seem well balanced.
T-case shifts OK (different than stock, better when rolling) and 5.0:1 is really low. The need for re-gear is more a street than trail thing I think.
Love that belly clearance. Overall, seems like a success
That allowed the new underarmor to go on; UCF DIY 1” drop T-case skid in 3/8” aluminum and UCF 1/4” aluminum engine skid (braces also powder coated).
For once, a straight forward, bolt on upgrade (except I used counter sunk bolts instead of the button heads the engine skid came with which I thought would become unusable the first time they were drug across a rock).
Next, some important but tedious work; pull the springs and cycle the suspension to figure and fix clearance issues with the 35s. I don’t enjoy pulling the springs, especially fronts. I also pulled the rears and cycled but no pics as nothing needed changing.
Since the body lift was the only change, I expected this would go pretty well. My 4+ inch spring lift was well worked out with 33s. Mostly, it did. 2 things though :
1) I figured this was a good time to redo my bumpstops. I’ve been using Daystar poly bumps which extend 3 3/4” from the cups at all corners and that has been pretty perfect for my setup.
But, bowing to peer pressure, I decided to go with hockey pucks and foam bumps. But hockey pucks on the low side don’t meet the cup as well and would contact the spring a lot more
So, since I destroyed the old bumps and buggered up the cups, I bought and replaced new Daystar poly bumps and crown cups. With about 9” of shock travel with that set up, tire clearance is mostly good:
Except problem number 2)
The SwayLoc links were too short. I have BMB elevated sway bar link brackets on the front axle. With those and 33s, the ORO links were about 8” eye-eye. The heim joint ends were already at pretty minimal depth in the ORO center bar.
In the pic above, the 35s contact the SwayLoc hard in the full flex and steering test. Options are adjust the steering stops or lengthen the links. I chose the latter. A local shop cut some 4130 chromoly 0.875” bar 4” longer than the ORO bars (8.5” vs. 4.5”), drilled each end to 1.75” depth and then tapped for 1/2” x 20tpi. The new links were assembled at 11.25” eye-eye.
That gave barely enough tire clearance just below the SwayLoc arm at full flex/steer. Amazing that a tire with only 1” more radius needed over 3” more sway bar link to work.
Also note the super stubby bumper cut. I did that for 2 reasons. First the Swayloc hits it at max up travel and 2nd the driver’s side got smashed into a rock on the Rubicon last fall.
I may fab some beefy end caps at some point, but not today.
With the new links, I could set my steering stops at a more reasonable position, put the springs back in and get the Jeep off the lift and go for a test ride after 2 plus months of on-off work. It also got a bath due to all the dust, pollen and bat sh*t collecting in that time.
I’ve been daily driving it this week. Initial impressions are:
Feels bigger. Looks cooler.
Also slower. Need to regear. 4.11 was fine with 33s and the stroker/AX-15 but not with 35s. I’m thinking 5.13 but could also be 4.88. I may not get to that for a bit.
More vibes with the trans on the GenRight universal crossmember vs the stock style Anchor trans mount. Tolerable, though.
Everything works. e.g. Speedo is correct. 4x4 dash light works. Exhaust sounds good. No new rattles/wobbles/odd sounds. Tires seem well balanced.
T-case shifts OK (different than stock, better when rolling) and 5.0:1 is really low. The need for re-gear is more a street than trail thing I think.
Love that belly clearance. Overall, seems like a success
Last edited:
. Jeep is really looking good 
as I mentioned, I know nothing about stereos).