Wrangler TJ Gas Overflow Fix

Zorba said:
It sounds to me the REAL fix would be to remove the troublesome part altogether, and replace it with the GM hose?

In the meantime, since I'm going to have my filler apart to install a locking door anyway, I ordered the GM hose for the interim. It may or may not be a "Real Fix (tm)", but it isn't gonna hurt anything.

I now return you to your regularly scheduled flame-fest! :geek:
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Awesome, one more Jeep owner destined to a life of doing shit half ass because it is too fucking hard to do it right.
 
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mrblaine said:
Awesome, one more Jeep owner destined to a life of doing shit half ass because it is too fucking hard to do it right.
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You're more than welcome to come down here and do it yourself, since you're oh-so-concerned and all. I'm going to have the filler assy apart anyway - so that's what I'm going to do. *IF* it causes further problem *OR* if I'm dropping the tank anyway (I probably will eventually to clean it out), I'll remove the defective part at that time. Capiche?
 
Speaking of dropping the tank, I'm going to do that to install a new skid plate and make this fix. Is there any other thing I can do as preventative maintenance while I have it down? Fuel pump? Fuel filter? Anything of the kind? (My LJ has 225,000 miles.)
@mrblaine
 
What is everyone’s thoughts on the tool for removing the locking ring on the fuel pump assembly?

I‘ve never messed with it while my tank was down, should I order one?
 
Apparition said:
OEMTOOLS 25156 Fuel Pump Module Spanner Wrench

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FDL3BS/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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I do like having the right tool for the job, I also Just took one off of a car two weeks ago and had no problem with a flat head and hammer, but it was a metal ring so I didn’t have to work about it breaking as much as a plastic ring. I’m sure the tool will be good to you! Plus it’s only $20, not too bad, definitely worth it if it makes the job easier and faster.
 
Ugh, wish I had read through this thread a little before doing the GM hose fix. I too stumbled upon this "fix" and just read the instructions on the first page. After fiddling with it for 2 hrs I got the GM hose installed, but it has a bit of a kink in it. I tried my best and was careful about trimming/bending but couldn't figure out how to install it without a kink. I'm going to test it out at the gas station tomorrow but when comparing it to the hose that I removed, I can't imagine what's installed right now will be good. I would guess that the flow is going to be restricted.

I'm too tired to go through this whole thread right now. Hoping dropping the tank isn't too bad, I saved the old hose luckily.

Any special tools recommended?

EDIT: Ahhh, just remembered that I cut the original hose to get it off. Anyone know the OEM hose part number?
 
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I installed the half ass GM hose trick a few weeks back. Easy fix and so far its worked great. Not a single splash back when filling up the tank. Sure is nice to hear the pump click off and not see gas splashed all over the place. Thanks guys.
 
Chris said:
The Real Fix

The issue of gas "burping" out of the filler neck right after the pump clicks off when the tank is full is a fairly common issue among Jeep Wrangler TJs. The cause of this is the ethanol in the gas causing plastic parts in the Inlet Check Valve (ICV) to bind and not close quickly enough to prevent fuel back-splash when full.

Owners of 2005 - 2006 TJ Wranglers were left up shit creek by Chrysler and the NHTSA on this one. '07 and newer got a warranty extension (NHTSA closed the investigation taking the heat off Chrysler) '05-'06 owners got the shaft. There's almost no point I filing a complaint with NHTSA any more because our complaints were already dismissed as "Internet hype".

Using the GM hose to address the "fuel spit back" problem is a hack (see below for the "hack" fix). This technique was first posted in the Internet many years ago and has made the rounds enough times in the jeep forums that it has become permanently embedded in the collective knowledge base and won't go away.

The problem is caused by a sticking plastic overflow valve at the inlet to the fuel tank.

The actual fix is is to drop the tank, sand the nubs on the plastic piece in the overflow valve , reassemble the valve then raise the tank back in place. The only "part" required is a piece of sandpaper as shown in the video below.




The Temporary Fix

This is the original "fix" for the fuel spit back problem. While it will usually fix the problem, it is a band-aid at best, and should only be thought of as a temporary fix, whereas the above method is the actual long term fix.

This is how GM fixed the exact same problem in the Trailblazers, Envoys, Bravadas, etc.

Amazon has the replacement part for around $30 here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUCRISO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

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The bulge in the middle is a little flapper valve:

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Here's our lower hose that connects the filler tube to the tank:

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Here's a how to guide:
The inside diameters are identical. Cut 1 1/4"off the small end and 1 3/4" off the big end. I started out only cutting about 3/4" from the small end to make it the same length as our hose, but it can't make the bend without kinking. I cut some more off and it made for less of a bend and no kink. If you have a body lift, you'll probably need to cut less off. Start small, you can always cut more but once you cut it too short you're on your own...:

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Swap your old clamps onto the GM part:

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The lower clamp has a little clip on it that you put at the top of the hose so you can feel that it's oriented right when you put in on the tank. The round notch on the GM hoseis there to align it with its intended tank, use it as a reference for installing the Jeep clamp. This is very important when it comes to re-installing the new hose. You'll have to feel for this clip because you won't be able to see it clearly:

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That's it!

Reinstall and you're done. I had to remove the 4 torx screws attaching the filler neck to the body to get the new hose on it. I didn't have to disconnect any other lines or take it completely out, but just needed to move the neck around to get the new hose on.


Removal and istallation on a TJ is extremely simple.

Access through lower wheel well cover:

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Loosen the 2 hose clampsand remove the original rubber hose. (1/4" screw clamp upper & 5/16" screw clamp lower) I found it easier to remove the stock hose with the upper filler neck still attached to the body so I could pull down on it.

Cut GM hoseand swap Jeep clamps over (see previous posts).

Remove the 4 torxscrews attaching upper filler pipe to body. You don't have to remove the pipe completely. I didn't even disconnect the tank vent, axle vent, and locker pump lines. You'll only need to move and twist it around a bit to get the new hose on:

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Install modified GM hose, tighten all fasteners, replace trim pieces as necessary - you're done!!!

Note: Make sure the hose is oriented correctly. If the flapper sits crooked or upside down it won't work right. The round notch on the big end of the GM hose before cutting it is for orienting it to its intended tank. You'll have to feel for the little clip on the Jeep hose clamp and make sure it sits at 12 o'clock on the tank inlet.

Here's the installed hose:

View attachment 388
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Love this. I made two small deviations from these instructions. I marked the bottom of the hose so i could easily see it was oriented correctly (bottom is easy to see vs. feeling the top), and i took the assembly out. it popped off the tank pretty easily when the filler neck was out and the assy was straight.
 
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