If you can do the MML and BL at the same time, that’s good, no modification of the fan shroud. You could try to adjust the stock TCase shifter at that time. You’ll have to do something because the body lift is what causes it to contort. NOt sure if you can get enough adjustment out of it. Ideally you do the Savvy Shifter at the same time you do the BL and MMLYes, ain't afraid of no stinking vibe!
I fixed them in my 97 so I figure I'm big time now so hey I'm going for it.
Btw I am ordering the Savvy 1.25 BL kit.
Should I install the Savvy cable shift at the same time ?
Or at a later date.?
At 3 inches of lift, wouldn't you need extended stay bar links too? Of course the antirock is an option, but I'm guessing if it wasn't mentioned to begin with it probably isn't desired.What’s the price difference on the 4.25” Zone kit vs the 3”?
Ultimately you could do the Savvy 3” springs ($429) + Savvy 1.25” body lift ($169), the aluminum Savvy MML blocks ($79) and pair with Rancho 5000x ($200), an adjustable front JKS trackbar ($230) and a rear relocation bracket ($20). Throw some bumpstops in there, you won’t need much. That’s about $1100, but it’s darn near perfect for 33’s.
I wasn't able to get it to adjust enough to get into 4 low without it immediately popping out. I think the extra quarter inch is the problem.If you can do the MML and BL at the same time, that’s good, no modification of the fan shroud. You could try to adjust the stock TCase shifter at that time. You’ll have to do something because the body lift is what causes it to contort. NOt sure if you can get enough adjustment out of it. Ideally you do the Savvy Shifter at the same time you do the BL and MML
Yep, you’ll need those too, front and rear, about 10” will do for the rear. RE1155 cost $30. For the front you can JKS disco or anti-rock. There are cheaper alternatives for temporary purposes. Good catchAt 3 inches of lift, wouldn't you need extended stay bar links too? Of course the antirock is an option, but I'm guessing if it wasn't mentioned to begin with it probably isn't desired.
Yes extended sway bar links at 3" is a must ... I like the antilock but may have to wait on it till the antilock cash comes inAt 3 inches of lift, wouldn't you need extended stay bar links too? Of course the antirock is an option, but I'm guessing if it wasn't mentioned to begin with it probably isn't desired.
I want to stay away from any surprises so I'll do the BL, MML, and Savvy shift cable all in one weekend and put it on my build page.I wasn't able to get it to adjust enough to get into 4 low without it immediately popping out. I think the extra quarter inch is the problem.
Truth is, you can do the Savvy TCase Shifter anytime, even when stockI want to stay away from any surprises so I'll do the BL, MML, and Savvy shift cable all in one weekend and put it on my build page.
I think that's the break point in most cases @Sancho, in round numbers, above 4" its a new level $$$$ like @JMT saidI thought a 3 inch lift or less... was easy and doable.. with no issues. 4 to 4.25.. thats when it gets expensive.
I have a stock lift.. and plan on doing 2.5 to 3.will this open up issues such as drive vibes.. etc
2.5-3” is iffy. It’s the iffy zone. YOu won’t get away without vibes more than likely, but easy enough to fix. A temporary TCase drop or a MML will solve it. Then you can go on and add a BL and get into 33’s with plenty of clearance. The only thing you’ll run into with the BL is the need for a TCase shifter. If you ever wanted to go to 35’s you could do some MC fenders or MCE or Poison Spyder Defenders or Genright. So, there are options in the 2.5” range. DId you ever see @CasterTroy rig? He’s at 2” and 36’s. Very well done and no one on here can argue against his choices. It’s done correctlyI thought a 3 inch lift or less... was easy and doable.. with no issues. 4 to 4.25.. thats when it gets expensive.
I have a stock lift.. and plan on doing 2.5 to 3.will this open up issues such as drive vibes.. etc
That should easily be cured by a few washers and it may not take many, my 97 vibes from a run of the mill 2" lift went away with 4 skid plate washers.I thought a 3 inch lift or less... was easy and doable.. with no issues. 4 to 4.25.. thats when it gets expensive.
I have a stock lift.. and plan on doing 2.5 to 3.will this open up issues such as drive vibes.. etc
Is it just a matter of cutting a bit more metal from the tub around the shifter?If you can do the MML and BL at the same time, that’s good, no modification of the fan shroud. You could try to adjust the stock TCase shifter at that time. You’ll have to do something because the body lift is what causes it to contort. NOt sure if you can get enough adjustment out of it. Ideally you do the Savvy Shifter at the same time you do the BL and MML
Poor linkage design. It binds when you lift the tub off the frame.Is it just a matter of cutting a bit more metal from the tub around the shifter?
Giving the shifter more clearance to move? Or is it the poor linkage design itself?