14 bolt is my favorite axle. Gear set up is a snap and the aftermarket is crazy supportive.
it's another new adventure for me. i now have enough wheelbase to utilize the bigger wheels.... that i need this bigger axle to hold. it's a progressively increasing circular cycle for me.14 bolt is my favorite axle. Gear set up is a snap and the aftermarket is crazy supportive.
The later model 14bolts have factory discs with drum in hat ebrakes. Both brakes work great with the correct master booster combo.When I was running the ProRock Sissy in the back I ran 1/2 ton brakes out of an F150. At about a 100-1 crawl ratio behind the hemi - it would drive through the brakes. Easily.
On the 14 bolt I stuck with the full 1 ton cheby disc brake / parking brake setup and have been really happy. Probably a little heavier than a 3/4 ton setup - but in reference to the weight of the rest of the axle it is negligible.
My rig is heavy, and I definitely like having the bigger brakes. I run full ton Fords in the front. No regrets at all going that route. Huge difference in braking - especially off-road down hill.
that was/is another thing to factor......i got the newer version.The later model 14bolts have factory discs with drum in hat ebrakes. Both work great with the correct master booster combo.
i'd almost rather have a direct e brake on the calipers . screw all that internal crap that gets corroded up and is never cleaned out right, if it's not used often it eventually just seizes up.I don't know if it help any but on mine I could lock up the fronts and they were just the stock Ford 1/2 ton brakes but in the rear I had Explorer brakes and they SUCKED. The parking brake never worked worth shit and they are the same type with a disc & hat ebrakes.
I'm toying with trying something different this time around.
i'd almost rather have a direct e brake on the calipers . screw all that internal crap that gets corroded up and is never cleaned out right, if it's not used often it eventually just seizes up.
even thought about a disc at the TC output with a caliper on it.
You can delete the drum in hat and still retain OE grade Calipers and rotors designed to stop 16.500 lbs of towing capacity. Then you would need the transfer case caliper or line lock. There are few ways to skin that cat.i'd almost rather have a direct e brake on the calipers . screw all that internal crap that gets corroded up and is never cleaned out right, if it's not used often it eventually just seizes up.
even thought about a disc at the TC output with a caliper on it.
I have used them, I love Ruff Stuff and run a lot of their parts. These worked ok but they are designed to stop a car and didn't do what I wanted. E-brake portion works well and depending on tire size/gearing I think they could work great. I am by no means trying to advocate for one option over the other just offering ideas and personal experience. Just because I had success doesn't mean another will.Same. I've never had any luck with the hat ebrake systems.
I've been looking at these.
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2262-A.html
I have used them, I love Ruff Stuff and run a lot of their parts. These worked ok but they are designed to stop a car and didn't do what I wanted. E-brake portion works well and depending on tire size/gearing I think they could work great. I am by no means trying to advocate for one option over the other just offering ideas and personal experience. Just because I had success doesn't mean another will.
Someguysjeep has a great point and I completely agree salty roads play havoc on parts. In the south we don't have those issues unless you live by the beach and I do not.
The first 14 bolt I picked up was the drum version, and my plan was to do a disc conversion. The only manual parking brake option available was those Elderado calipers. Everything I read said that if you need and ebrake to pass inspection, these will work. But they suck as an actual ebrake, and would certainly be worthless on 40’s. Since I use the ebrake as cutting brakes, that was a non starter for me.
So I trashed that original 14 bolt (after investing a lot of time cleaning it up and cutting the brackets off) and started over agin with a later 2003 disc brake model.
Those calipers were so bad - as I understand it - GM only used them for 2 model years.
Lol. Pretty sure the parking brake calipers on my converted-to-disc GMC motorhome are those same Eldo calipers. 12,000 lbs...The first 14 bolt I picked up was the drum version, and my plan was to do a disc conversion. The only manual parking brake option available was those Elderado calipers. Everything I read said that if you need and ebrake to pass inspection, these will work. But they suck as an actual ebrake, and would certainly be worthless on 40’s. Since I use the ebrake as cutting brakes, that was a non starter for me.
So I trashed that original 14 bolt (after investing a lot of time cleaning it up and cutting the brackets off) and started over agin with a later 2003 disc brake model.
Those calipers were so bad - as I understand it - GM only used them for 2 model years.
got me lookin see....... this is why i need to ask..................yesterday i didn't know WTF a line lock was.I've never ran them so I'm only going off what I've read about them online. Great to hear some first hand experience.
I'm honestly not super worried about a parking brake but it would be nice. If I want one I'll have to go with a electronic brake actuator since I don't have a hand brake anymore. So a line lock looks better all the time. But who knows.
got me lookin see....... this is why i need to ask..................yesterday i didn't know WTF a line lock was.
so why did B00m go through the trouble of what he did if this simple gizmo does similar? seems like you could just split the rear brakes and run 2 pieces for individual wheel control, if that was the desire.
does say on almost every 1, don't trust this for a real E brake. it's supplemental or for use as cutting brake control. now i assume this is because if the brake sys fails so does that function.
Blaine did warn me about anything other than a non-reversible control on the park brake is no bueno if the holding sys relies on another operating sys to use.
but man, 2 of those little black buttons might look real sexy nestled into 1 of them aluminum consoles, once i'm ready to play with the braking sys.
in my head, the thought of a 3/4 ton caliper.................... not much bigger than what i have now, the sys should handle it as is.
i don't mind leavin the junk in the hat, it's just a PITA to service, but in reality i'm lyin to myself and being lazy cause i have the wheels of every other wkend, so that's BS i guess.
if the E brake caliper is not rock solid, it's junk to me and off the list of options.
i think maybe, line locks gonna be reserved for the cutting brake option, if i ever make it that far.
my front end has a JK Crown BBK (1500 caliper IIRC). this is huge compared to what was there and not far off what i have to run on a 60 (i think), so again should not stress the current sys (i hoped). my MC was upgraded to what Blaine recommended for the larger calipers on my current sys. i was trying to keep things from ballooning into hydro boost (if that's the right term).
it's never gonna see the highway, it should never have to worry about lockin um up on pavement. massive Dana 60 calipers up front and 3/4 T's on the ass, i think i should be ok no? am i kiddin myself? does this require more upgrades to the braking power sys?
i'm not a heavy build. a few extra tubes over head, some big wheels and a winch.
vs 1/2 the fuel weight (y'all can carry), and a spare wheel (most carry) but all now centered in the tub, all the heavy stock seats and interior frills are stripped. and most often tools and safety equip (70-90# est.) will likely be carried in the passenger side floor boards to center that weight and offset me.
dig into the trail called Carnage in CO' you'll find the guy. he runs the stock 6 w/ a 42RLE 14B rear, SD HP60 in front, on fo deez. IIRC he does run an atlas too, along with some substantial suspension work. but he drives it on the road there and back and makes the trail start to finish.dare I say 40s with the 4.0 and auto
right on. but IDK if hittin the pedal then flippin the knob would be a major hindrance. 1 might assume if your in a spot to use um your not comin in hot and your creepin up stoppin to peek b4 rollin into it anyway.To activate the line lock you have to apply your brakes first. I doesn't have a master cylinder to apply pressure on it's own.
i'm not 100% on how his functions, haven't had time to give it a proper read. i can gather by your answer it's not the same? so he's not lockin pressure in? he's feathering the calipers pressure with those cylinders?And this is the reason B00m did what he did
right on. but IDK if hittin the pedal then flippin the knob would be a major hindrance. 1 might assume if your in a spot to use um your not comin in hot and your creepin up stoppin to peek b4 rollin into it anyway.
i'm not 100% on how his functions, haven't had time to give it a proper read. i can gather by your answer it's not the same? so he's not lockin pressure in? he's feathering the calipers pressure with those cylinders?
most of this is advanced for where i'm at currently and isn't an atlas a major component between real cutting brakes and just power braking? i do have a 2yr projected date plan for being able to afford 1.