Someguys 04

14 bolt is my favorite axle. Gear set up is a snap and the aftermarket is crazy supportive.
it's another new adventure for me. i now have enough wheelbase to utilize the bigger wheels.... that i need this bigger axle to hold. it's a progressively increasing circular cycle for me.
the weight and power of the TJ should be tame compared to what the axles made to handle, allowing the excess to be used at the big heavy ass wheels as long as i have enough brakes to control those.
this should get me to a point it's gonna be hard to tear up and therefore reliable for a long time.

right now i'm kinda leanin toward WOD/Crane being the most influential in some of my decisions, 14's (big axles) are what they do and all they do.

i might be interested in cutting a few pounds at the rear calipers, maybe downsize those to 3/4 tons, seems like that'd peel almost 20# off that axle quick and still have plenty of stopping power vs weight.
not quite sure if i can just change the caliper and rotor. 1 might assume they'd have to modify the stock bracket for a smaller part, or if it's just easier to remove the factory hanger and replace it for the right 1. or F it and just run the heavier stock package. haven't dug into any other options other than peeking a few kits made for drum to disk upgrades.
 
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When I was running the ProRock Sissy in the back I ran 1/2 ton brakes out of an F150. At about a 100-1 crawl ratio behind the hemi - it would drive through the brakes. Easily.

On the 14 bolt I stuck with the full 1 ton cheby disc brake / parking brake setup and have been really happy. Probably a little heavier than a 3/4 ton setup - but in reference to the weight of the rest of the axle it is negligible.

My rig is heavy, and I definitely like having the bigger brakes. I run full ton Fords in the front. No regrets at all going that route. Huge difference in braking - especially off-road down hill.
 
When I was running the ProRock Sissy in the back I ran 1/2 ton brakes out of an F150. At about a 100-1 crawl ratio behind the hemi - it would drive through the brakes. Easily.

On the 14 bolt I stuck with the full 1 ton cheby disc brake / parking brake setup and have been really happy. Probably a little heavier than a 3/4 ton setup - but in reference to the weight of the rest of the axle it is negligible.

My rig is heavy, and I definitely like having the bigger brakes. I run full ton Fords in the front. No regrets at all going that route. Huge difference in braking - especially off-road down hill.
The later model 14bolts have factory discs with drum in hat ebrakes. Both brakes work great with the correct master booster combo.
441D8218-7F92-47BE-9F50-57788E61C94A.jpeg
 
The later model 14bolts have factory discs with drum in hat ebrakes. Both work great with the correct master booster combo.
that was/is another thing to factor......i got the newer version.
using a 3/4 ton caliper keeps me close to whats on here now and the sys is able to handle it
 
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I don't know if it help any but on mine I could lock up the fronts and they were just the stock Ford 1/2 ton brakes but in the rear I had Explorer brakes and they SUCKED. The parking brake never worked worth shit and they are the same type with a disc & hat ebrakes.

I'm toying with trying something different this time around.
 
I don't know if it help any but on mine I could lock up the fronts and they were just the stock Ford 1/2 ton brakes but in the rear I had Explorer brakes and they SUCKED. The parking brake never worked worth shit and they are the same type with a disc & hat ebrakes.

I'm toying with trying something different this time around.
i'd almost rather have a direct e brake on the calipers . screw all that internal crap that gets corroded up and is never cleaned out right, if it's not used often it eventually just seizes up.

even thought about a disc at the TC output with a caliper on it.
 
i'd almost rather have a direct e brake on the calipers . screw all that internal crap that gets corroded up and is never cleaned out right, if it's not used often it eventually just seizes up.

even thought about a disc at the TC output with a caliper on it.

Same. I've never had any luck with the hat ebrake systems.

I've been looking at these.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2262-A.html
 
i'd almost rather have a direct e brake on the calipers . screw all that internal crap that gets corroded up and is never cleaned out right, if it's not used often it eventually just seizes up.

even thought about a disc at the TC output with a caliper on it.
You can delete the drum in hat and still retain OE grade Calipers and rotors designed to stop 16.500 lbs of towing capacity. Then you would need the transfer case caliper or line lock. There are few ways to skin that cat.
 
Same. I've never had any luck with the hat ebrake systems.

I've been looking at these.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2262-A.html
I have used them, I love Ruff Stuff and run a lot of their parts. These worked ok but they are designed to stop a car and didn't do what I wanted. E-brake portion works well and depending on tire size/gearing I think they could work great. I am by no means trying to advocate for one option over the other just offering ideas and personal experience. Just because I had success doesn't mean another will.

Someguysjeep has a great point and I completely agree salty roads play havoc on parts. In the south we don't have those issues unless you live by the beach and I do not.
 
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I have used them, I love Ruff Stuff and run a lot of their parts. These worked ok but they are designed to stop a car and didn't do what I wanted. E-brake portion works well and depending on tire size/gearing I think they could work great. I am by no means trying to advocate for one option over the other just offering ideas and personal experience. Just because I had success doesn't mean another will.

Someguysjeep has a great point and I completely agree salty roads play havoc on parts. In the south we don't have those issues unless you live by the beach and I do not.

I've never ran them so I'm only going off what I've read about them online. Great to hear some first hand experience.

I'm honestly not super worried about a parking brake but it would be nice. If I want one I'll have to go with a electronic brake actuator since I don't have a hand brake anymore. So a line lock looks better all the time. But who knows.
 
The first 14 bolt I picked up was the drum version, and my plan was to do a disc conversion. The only manual parking brake option available was those Elderado calipers. Everything I read said that if you need and ebrake to pass inspection, these will work. But they suck as an actual ebrake, and would certainly be worthless on 40’s. Since I use the ebrake as cutting brakes, that was a non starter for me.

So I trashed that original 14 bolt (after investing a lot of time cleaning it up and cutting the brackets off) and started over agin with a later 2003 disc brake model.

Those calipers were so bad - as I understand it - GM only used them for 2 model years.
 
The first 14 bolt I picked up was the drum version, and my plan was to do a disc conversion. The only manual parking brake option available was those Elderado calipers. Everything I read said that if you need and ebrake to pass inspection, these will work. But they suck as an actual ebrake, and would certainly be worthless on 40’s. Since I use the ebrake as cutting brakes, that was a non starter for me.

So I trashed that original 14 bolt (after investing a lot of time cleaning it up and cutting the brackets off) and started over agin with a later 2003 disc brake model.

Those calipers were so bad - as I understand it - GM only used them for 2 model years.

Damn now I'm going to have to start looking again.
 
The first 14 bolt I picked up was the drum version, and my plan was to do a disc conversion. The only manual parking brake option available was those Elderado calipers. Everything I read said that if you need and ebrake to pass inspection, these will work. But they suck as an actual ebrake, and would certainly be worthless on 40’s. Since I use the ebrake as cutting brakes, that was a non starter for me.

So I trashed that original 14 bolt (after investing a lot of time cleaning it up and cutting the brackets off) and started over agin with a later 2003 disc brake model.

Those calipers were so bad - as I understand it - GM only used them for 2 model years.
Lol. Pretty sure the parking brake calipers on my converted-to-disc GMC motorhome are those same Eldo calipers. 12,000 lbs...
 
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I've never ran them so I'm only going off what I've read about them online. Great to hear some first hand experience.

I'm honestly not super worried about a parking brake but it would be nice. If I want one I'll have to go with a electronic brake actuator since I don't have a hand brake anymore. So a line lock looks better all the time. But who knows.
got me lookin see....... this is why i need to ask..................yesterday i didn't know WTF a line lock was.

so why did B00m go through the trouble of what he did if this simple gizmo does similar? seems like you could just split the rear brakes and run 2 pieces for individual wheel control, if that was the desire.
does say on almost every 1, don't trust this for a real E brake. it's supplemental or for use as cutting brake control. now i assume this is because if the brake sys fails so does that function.
Blaine did warn me about anything other than a non-reversible control on the park brake is no bueno if the holding sys relies on another operating sys to use.

but man, 2 of those little black buttons might look real sexy nestled into 1 of them aluminum consoles, once i'm ready to play with the braking sys.

in my head, the thought of a 3/4 ton caliper.................... not much bigger than what i have now, the sys should handle it as is.
i don't mind leavin the junk in the hat, it's just a PITA to service, but in reality i'm lyin to myself and being lazy cause i have the wheels of every other wkend, so that's BS i guess.
if the E brake caliper is not rock solid, it's junk to me and off the list of options.
i think maybe, line locks gonna be reserved for the cutting brake option, if i ever make it that far.


my front end has a JK Crown BBK (1500 caliper IIRC). this is huge compared to what was there and not far off what i have to run on a 60 (i think), so again should not stress the current sys (i hoped). my MC was upgraded to what Blaine recommended for the larger calipers on my current sys. i was trying to keep things from ballooning into hydro boost (if that's the right term).

it's never gonna see the highway, it should never have to worry about lockin um up on pavement. massive Dana 60 calipers up front and 3/4 T's on the ass, i think i should be ok no? am i kiddin myself? does this require more upgrades to the braking power sys?

i'm not a heavy build. a few extra tubes over head, some big wheels and a winch.
vs 1/2 the fuel weight (y'all can carry), and a spare wheel (most carry) but all now centered in the tub, all the heavy stock seats and interior frills are stripped. and most often tools and safety equip (70-90# est.) will likely be carried in the passenger side floor boards to center that weight and offset me.
 
yesterday i did manage to get a couple of those trailer hubs off. it all looks good, at least on these 2 ends.
spindles are clean, bearings look good, packed with more than enough grease. i verified the sizes and any new bits i might need. the drums look great, no visible odd wear. the pads have good meat left and all the bits move freely. i do want to test the magnets b4 i call them good to use..
 
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I think and research a lot about axles, not really sure why.
I plan to retain my 4.0, at least for now. I like my current gearing at 5:38 ratio with 35s. Makes the power level or lack of tolerable.

Is there a combo that would work just as well for 37s or dare I say 40s with the 4.0 and auto. Maybe…..

I wish the aftermarket would do more radios with the later model Tundra rear axle. It’s a removable third member with a 10.5 gear and not a low or high pinion but a mid pinion. This could be built into a lighter rear axle with 14bolt FF hubs. And a front with 05 and up superduty outers. In my mind this is a slightly more budget friendly approach to a lot of cool benefits. Problem I have is the highest numerical gear ratio is 5.29.

Higher gear ratios are available for the 60 but even those are spoty and not always available.

Which leads me to my most current daydream. Hybrid dana 70s. Low pinion but strength is not an issue and they are dirt cheap in my area. Gear ratios into the 6.17 realm.

Front axle=Shaved 70 center section 5:89 gears, .25 chromo axle tubes with a minimal truss (I don’t jump my jeep) and 05+ SD inner C’s out. Only custom parts are inner axles shafts, Dutchman cost are not bad. If the budget lends itself you could go RCV big bell shafts with the 4.0. It would be unlikely to break.

Rear axle= 70 center section .25 chromo tubes 5:89 gears and minimal truss to shave some weight. I imagine like the 14bolt the later model 70s are available with factory disk brakes.

Give me a few weeks I’m sure my day dream will change lol. But this sounds fun to build.
 
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got me lookin see....... this is why i need to ask..................yesterday i didn't know WTF a line lock was.

so why did B00m go through the trouble of what he did if this simple gizmo does similar? seems like you could just split the rear brakes and run 2 pieces for individual wheel control, if that was the desire.
does say on almost every 1, don't trust this for a real E brake. it's supplemental or for use as cutting brake control. now i assume this is because if the brake sys fails so does that function.
Blaine did warn me about anything other than a non-reversible control on the park brake is no bueno if the holding sys relies on another operating sys to use.

but man, 2 of those little black buttons might look real sexy nestled into 1 of them aluminum consoles, once i'm ready to play with the braking sys.

in my head, the thought of a 3/4 ton caliper.................... not much bigger than what i have now, the sys should handle it as is.
i don't mind leavin the junk in the hat, it's just a PITA to service, but in reality i'm lyin to myself and being lazy cause i have the wheels of every other wkend, so that's BS i guess.
if the E brake caliper is not rock solid, it's junk to me and off the list of options.
i think maybe, line locks gonna be reserved for the cutting brake option, if i ever make it that far.


my front end has a JK Crown BBK (1500 caliper IIRC). this is huge compared to what was there and not far off what i have to run on a 60 (i think), so again should not stress the current sys (i hoped). my MC was upgraded to what Blaine recommended for the larger calipers on my current sys. i was trying to keep things from ballooning into hydro boost (if that's the right term).

it's never gonna see the highway, it should never have to worry about lockin um up on pavement. massive Dana 60 calipers up front and 3/4 T's on the ass, i think i should be ok no? am i kiddin myself? does this require more upgrades to the braking power sys?

i'm not a heavy build. a few extra tubes over head, some big wheels and a winch.
vs 1/2 the fuel weight (y'all can carry), and a spare wheel (most carry) but all now centered in the tub, all the heavy stock seats and interior frills are stripped. and most often tools and safety equip (70-90# est.) will likely be carried in the passenger side floor boards to center that weight and offset me.

The line lock for steering brakes has one issue that I can think of and believe me I'VE been thinking about all this.
To activate the line lock you have to apply your brakes first. I doesn't have a master cylinder to apply pressure on it's own. Now is this a problem? I honestly have no idea as I've only ever used steering brakes on a tractor. When needing to apply the steering brake is it going to matter if you apply the brakes before an obstacle? For packaging YES a little line lock module would be so much nicer. And this is the reason B00m did what he did. They are to totally different things.

Any emergency brake system is not suppose to rely on the main braking system which is why it's called a emergency brake system.
 
dare I say 40s with the 4.0 and auto
dig into the trail called Carnage in CO' you'll find the guy. he runs the stock 6 w/ a 42RLE 14B rear, SD HP60 in front, on fo deez. IIRC he does run an atlas too, along with some substantial suspension work. but he drives it on the road there and back and makes the trail start to finish.

the trails difficult enough i've never heard any of these guys here speak of runnin it end to end, and it warns of a 37" wheel minimum and a winch out ending. this is the plateau i'd think would satisfy my ambition.

as far as gears, road driven requires the best gearing you can lend it, but i'm not so sure if goin deeper than say a 5.38 on a dedicated ORV is needed, those teeth start to get thin.

To activate the line lock you have to apply your brakes first. I doesn't have a master cylinder to apply pressure on it's own.
right on. but IDK if hittin the pedal then flippin the knob would be a major hindrance. 1 might assume if your in a spot to use um your not comin in hot and your creepin up stoppin to peek b4 rollin into it anyway.
And this is the reason B00m did what he did
i'm not 100% on how his functions, haven't had time to give it a proper read. i can gather by your answer it's not the same? so he's not lockin pressure in? he's feathering the calipers pressure with those cylinders?

most of this is advanced for where i'm at currently and isn't an atlas a major component between real cutting brakes and just power braking? i do have a 2yr projected date plan for being able to afford 1.
 
right on. but IDK if hittin the pedal then flippin the knob would be a major hindrance. 1 might assume if your in a spot to use um your not comin in hot and your creepin up stoppin to peek b4 rollin into it anyway.

I don't know either if it would matter in some situations. But in others yes having to hit the brakes before applying the cutting brake in my opinion would be a problem.
One for instance is if you are just trying to use the uphill side brake to hold your rig on a line.

i'm not 100% on how his functions, haven't had time to give it a proper read. i can gather by your answer it's not the same? so he's not lockin pressure in? he's feathering the calipers pressure with those cylinders?

Yes what he has is more or less two small brake cylinders that he can apply individually by pulling a lever.

61NLwY5bvzL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


So instead of just being on or off you are controlling how much brake resistance you are applying. All this can be very beneficial.


most of this is advanced for where i'm at currently and isn't an atlas a major component between real cutting brakes and just power braking? i do have a 2yr projected date plan for being able to afford 1.

Yep it all take time. We all have to learn and that IMO is part of what this forum is about.
 
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