That's a mystery suitable for Friday Night Agatha Christy Mystery Hour.After I installed a 2.5-3" lift, my steering wheel did not need any adjustment. Why is that?
Did you re-center your front axle after the lift?After I installed a 2.5-3" lift, my steering wheel did not need any adjustment. Why is that?
I didn't use an adjustable track bar, since my front axle moved only about 0.4” to the driver’s sideDid you re-center your front axle after the lift?
Your steering wheel will remain in the same position if you don't move the axle over.I didn't use an adjustable track bar, since my front axle moved only about 0.4” to the driver’s side
Mystery solved!Your steering wheel will remain in the same position if you don't move the axle over.
Did you measure your springs afterwards? Are the fronts at 14.5"?I really don't get it. I too got a true 2.5'' lift but my front axle moved more than 1''. I got a JKS front adjustable trackball to solve it. But it's weird how the same lift move the axle by a different amount, no?
I have around 2.9" front and 2.4" rear.Yes, and the rear ones at about 10.5''. That's why I said "true" lift. It's strange...
Yes. That is because the left and right sides are connected by a single common tie rod.QUESTION:
Guys! When adjusting the toe in by this method, is it guaranteed that both wheels are going to be toed in the same?
Should I also make sure that the aluminum tubes are level using a spirit level? (I don't know if thats the correct term in english)Yes. That is because the left and right sides are connected by a single common tie rod.
Eye level is good enough.Should I also make sure that the aluminum tubes are level using a spirit level? (I don't know if thats the correct term in english)
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What is the advantage of removing the tires?...
For an easier and more repeatable way of measuring your toe-in than measuring between the tires, use a pair of 1" square aluminum tubes as in the below photos and use them to measure between. Center and hold the square tubes to the rotors with spring steel clamps after marking them at points equal to the diameter of your tires.
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Because the tension in the tape measure might deflect the rubber in the tires using the aluminum arm as a lever. You can measure from the tread in the tire, that wont deflect the tire enough to matter. Measure from the same tread block on both sides. That's what I do and it works fine.What is the advantage of removing the tires?
Wouldn't it be easier to jack the front diff, and attach each square aluminum tube to each tire/wheel?
More repeatable measurements, they wouldn't be as repeatable if the aluminum tubes were attached to the tires. Cast rotors have precision surfaces, tire sidewalls are anything but precision surfaces.What is the advantage of removing the tires?
Wouldn't it be easier to jack the front diff, and attach each square aluminum tube to each tire/wheel?