How to align your Jeep Wrangler TJ

Use the dual tape measure method as shown in post #1.

Welcome to the forum.
 
I really don't get it. I too got a true 2.5'' lift but my front axle moved more than 1''. I got a JKS front adjustable trackball to solve it. But it's weird how the same lift move the axle by a different amount, no? :unsure:
 
I really don't get it. I too got a true 2.5'' lift but my front axle moved more than 1''. I got a JKS front adjustable trackball to solve it. But it's weird how the same lift move the axle by a different amount, no? :unsure:
Did you measure your springs afterwards? Are the fronts at 14.5"?
 
QUESTION:

Guys! When adjusting the toe in by this method, is it guaranteed that both wheels are going to be toed in the same?

How do I know that one wheel isn't more toed in than the other one?
 
Yes. That is because the left and right sides are connected by a single common tie rod.
Should I also make sure that the aluminum tubes are level using a spirit level? (I don't know if thats the correct term in english)

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For an easier and more repeatable way of measuring your toe-in than measuring between the tires, use a pair of 1" square aluminum tubes as in the below photos and use them to measure between. Center and hold the square tubes to the rotors with spring steel clamps after marking them at points equal to the diameter of your tires.
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What is the advantage of removing the tires?

Wouldn't it be easier to jack the front diff, and attach each square aluminum tube to each tire/wheel?
 
Some people use the tire itself for the measurement. I don't trust tires to be that perfectly symmetrical. With the aluminum placed on the tire, it's sitting against variations in the sidewall like big lettering, small lettering, little nibs. You get a hard flat surface with the rotors.
 
What is the advantage of removing the tires?

Wouldn't it be easier to jack the front diff, and attach each square aluminum tube to each tire/wheel?
Because the tension in the tape measure might deflect the rubber in the tires using the aluminum arm as a lever. You can measure from the tread in the tire, that wont deflect the tire enough to matter. Measure from the same tread block on both sides. That's what I do and it works fine.
 
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What is the advantage of removing the tires?

Wouldn't it be easier to jack the front diff, and attach each square aluminum tube to each tire/wheel?
More repeatable measurements, they wouldn't be as repeatable if the aluminum tubes were attached to the tires. Cast rotors have precision surfaces, tire sidewalls are anything but precision surfaces.