They are and you are looking for what is technically called an Extruded U nut.
These would work nicely.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040CVQGG/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
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These would work nicely.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040CVQGG/?tag=wranglerorg-20
OP
I kept the #4 Phillips. I think they can be tightened more than allen.
OP
If you have a Fastenal near by ask by stock number it is much easier https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/0162842
I almost burned my orchard down using steer wool in my exhaust. In my samurai I didn’t have enough back pressure to make the EGR operate correctly. So I shoved some steel wool up the exhaust. It passed smog so i pulled the pin I installed to keep it I. The exhaust pipe and revved the engine. It shot out a long ways and by the time I found it I had a little fire burning. Lol. Be careful. Lmao.
OP
That's why I used stainless. The sound didn't change from the loss of this wad. If I see another dingleberry, I'll pull it apart and see what is going on.
I used stainless as well. But it gets awful hot. I like the ingenuity!!!!!
This is your fault!View attachment 323250
Careful, some hipster might see this in Colorado and interpret it as anti-truck-nuts and it might catch on to become really popular!
OP
That needs to happen. I'll hang the scrubbie back on the tailpipe!
could you bend up a small chicken wire cage to keep it in there? even if you tacked it to the inside of the tube in a couple spots.
OP
I don't think anything is burning. I think I just shoved some of the pads in too far past the cage.
How much stretch are you doing? Are you moving your link brackets or getting longer links?
OP
6" to get to 101" from my current 95ish. The brackets will be moved along with the frame arch.
OP
There was still a small drip, so I replaced the valve cover gasket yesterday. That was far more difficult than I ever would have guessed it would be.
The wire raceway on the back of the valve cover was incredibly difficult to remove. And once free, it would not get out of the way of the remaining bolts or out of the way of easily removing the cover. I needed to remove the thermostat housing to make enough room. None of the videos I watched in preparation showed anything like this.
In the process of everything, I discovered that the insulation on the three rear-most injectors was crumbling.
I replaced those with repair pigtails today.
I'll know if the oil leaks are gone this week. The skids and the back of the engine are cleaned off with the hope of staying that way for a while.
OP
Yes. The cut will be right behind the center skid, in front of the mid arm bracket where the frame first becomes parallel. The rear suspension stays fully intact in the frame. New crossmembers will be made to capture and recreate the two rear pairs of body mounts.