Are those the same as the ones from the Amazon link that you posted above? I threw those on my wishlist as a future buy.
They are.
So far I’ve used the following sizes:
- 3/4” over the low pressure line near the compressor and near the base of the dryer since the line OD measures around 5/8”;
- 1-1/4” over the rubber line and crimp fittings near the passenger side coil pack area; and
- 2.2” over the Home Depot rubber insulation foam above the valve cover and intake manifold.
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I plan to shield the fuel rail and injectors soon for my heat soak issue (the mopar shielding of injector #3 was not enough).
I originally purchased 1/2” but haven’t used it yet. May use it over some wiring on the driver side.
have you done anything to the line running between the orifice (immediately rearward) and the firewall? That's where I expect the biggest results.
I don't know why but the engineers spat in the face of HVAC design best practice when they put the metering device 3 feet from the evaporator...literally turning all that line length into evaporator surface that doesn't contribute anything to cooling the cabin. In every commercial application I've ever seen, it's put as close to the evaporator as physically possible. We won't even put an elbow between the device and the evaporator inlet because the velocity taking a corner stratifies the mixture and feeds part of the coil with straight gas.
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Basically what you do by putting all that line in the engine compartment is you start already well on your way to right on the "evaporization" line before you ever get to the evaporator coil.
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So for those of us following along at home, just where is the "metering device" aka orifice?
Orifice tube is at the crimped spot near the condenser connection. It's a little tough to see but there is condensation on the line beyond the crimp. I doubt you would gain much by insulating it but it couldn't hurt. It would be nice if they installed or orifice tube nearer the evaporator but I guess that would increase the amount of refrigerant needed in the system.
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Call George @ Air&Sound Boonton NJ. He would know been in biz forever.The A/C in my Jeep works fine. Most places... But here in 29 palms the temperature is in the 108 or one hundred and teens on a daily basis and summer just got started.
I don't believe anyone makes a kit for it, but theoretically would it be possible to modify the system in some way to make it colder and blow harder? Maybe even route some flexible tube to the back to get the air to my kids?
What would it take? A larger blower motor? Modified hvac box and larger condenser?
The proposition even if possible would be most likely be too expensive and complex to follow through, but I found it to be an interesting question at least.
I had the doors and windows off for a bit, it was... Tolerable.
Orifice tube is at the crimped spot near the condenser connection. It's a little tough to see but there is condensation on the line beyond the crimp.
have you done anything to the line running between the orifice (immediately rearward) and the firewall? That's where I expect the biggest results.
I don't know why but the engineers spat in the face of HVAC design best practice when they put the metering device 3 feet from the evaporator...literally turning all that line length into evaporator surface that doesn't contribute anything to cooling the cabin. In every commercial application I've ever seen, it's put as close to the evaporator as physically possible.
Just so I understand this correctly, you insulate from that crimp all the way back to the firewall?
Yes sir, that's what I plan to do.
Thank you both for testing all of this out and sharing the results. Those of us in hot (and in my case humid) climates will all benefit.
1/2" rubber pipe insulation - Lowes - Orifice to the firewall
Are the three foot lengths enough, or did you need to get the ten foot lengths?
My wife and I did a three day trail ride earlier this year, and it felt like we had heat stroke. The brand new AC just wasn't keeping up.
The soft top was almost too hot to touch, and so when we got back I started to look for options. I ordered a Hotheads headliner last week, so I'm hoping that the combination of all of these ideas will help at least a little.
I think the only one I'm missing is the rubber pipe insulation over the valve cover and intake manifold. If I got any of this wrong, please correct me and I'll edit the post. Are the three foot lengths enough, or did you need to get the ten foot lengths?
Going to give this a try and see if it makes any difference. It’s the Frost King rubber 1/2” insulation From Lowes. Installed from the condenser to the firewall.
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At most maybe some aluminum shielding but no insulation.
Wow, I did not expect this much input. Knew it was something I'd never seen discussed so I wasn't sure how much feedback I'd get.
I do run insulation against the floor to block some of the radiant heat. My door windows are tinted as all get out and my soft top is tinted as well. I'll look into the lines.
I noticed on my way in to the gym this morning that the AC blows cold enough to turn my fingers to ice cubes on the steering wheel, but the ambient temps are considerably cooler at 5 am. Like I said the system seems to work as designed, it just takes a good while to overpower the stored heat if I get in it at 2 in the afternoon to go somewhere.
Some of these ideas seem simple enough to try if I find a few minutes to tinker on the weekend. In the end it was a "cool" thought, but I'm saving up for outboarding not blower motors. It's only hot here half the year right? 6 months from now I'll be posting about heating
Thanks all for the interesting conversation