Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Does Metalcloak make a good track bar?

NskLJ said:
I’ve done that but there are easier ways to diagnosis, with the full force of the vehicle on the rod end.
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I can say that I didn't feel the slop on mine during a steer test like I would have expected to.
 
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jjvw said:
I can say that I didn't feel the slop on mine during a steer test like I would have expected to.
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Almost need to test them at all angles, as much as I hate to run rod ends on a street driven vehicle. I made a decision that I’m happy with. I was amazed how cheap that RE once I bent it and pulled it off. It’s been on there since I bought the Jeep and I think I replaced the rod end just a month before I bent it.
 
NskLJ said:
Shocks removed next is arm hitting the lip on the shock mount bracket. I’ve clearanced the brackets. I am very close to 50/50 and am happy with the ride.
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I must have misunderstood earlier, I thought you were saying you bound up before the shocks were fully extended. I didn't bother clearancing that since the shocks make it where that doesn't happen. Though I should clean mine up to look more finished someday since after cutting out the shock mounts next to that lip there's an abrupt edge.
 
Gollywomper said:
They have not fixed the issue and continue to send out free replacement joints rather than use a quality joint from the start.
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They only gave me 1 free replacement. After that, full price.

Now, I'm running the Currie/RJ. So I have a MC track bar with a brand new, uninstalled heim joint I'll be selling when I get around to it.
 
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Measurements are in, I have a 5/8" hole frame side and a 9/16" hole axle side. What are my options other than metal cloak?
 
g.hayduke said:
They only gave me 1 free replacement. After that, full price.

Now, I'm running the Currie/RJ. So I have a MC track bar with a brand new, uninstalled heim joint I'll be selling when I get around to it.
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How much to ship it to me?
 
question, The hole metal cloak had me drill is larger than the JKS 9/16. I assume its 5/8, when I spec in the 9/16 bolt with the sleeve, there is still a bunch of play. I assume I cant Run that, because it will cause wobble? is there a way I can swap out the JKS end to fit a 5/8 bolt? So I dont have to Modify the Frame? or am I shit outta luck and have to Have a welder do some work?
 
Yeti08 said:
question, The hole metal cloak had me drill is larger than the JKS 9/16. I assume its 5/8, when I spec in the 9/16 bolt with the sleeve, there is still a bunch of play. I assume I cant Run that, because it will cause wobble? is there a way I can swap out the JKS end to fit a 5/8 bolt? So I dont have to Modify the Frame? or am I shit outta luck and have to Have a welder do some work?
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This is why I went with metal cloak. PO put a RE track bar on and it was 5/8 on the frame side. If you get a currie track bar they will make the ends whatever size you want but jks only comes one way.
 
Bargain Box said:
This is why I went with metal cloak. PO put a RE track bar on and it was 5/8 on the frame side. If you get a currie track bar they will make the ends whatever size you want but jks only comes one way.
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Just trying to figure out if I can run the 9/16 bolt. Its my daily driver, and Im sitting in my driveway. just trying to figure out if i can run the new one or not
 
Yeti08 said:
Just trying to figure out if I can run the 9/16 bolt. Its my daily driver, and Im sitting in my driveway. just trying to figure out if i can run the new one or not
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You can't run a 9/16 bolt through a 5/8 hole unfortunately.
 
Yeti08 said:
Just trying to figure out if I can run the 9/16 bolt. Its my daily driver, and Im sitting in my driveway. just trying to figure out if i can run the new one or not
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Guy wants to run a 9/16" bolt through a 5/8" hole on the frame wide of the front TB.

I think it's just clamping friction that holds a fastener in place, so as long as you follow the torque specs it should work, but I am open to correction. @mrblaine would know. @Mike_H would know, as well as several others who know more about fasteners.

Also, if you found a very narrow sleeve (1/16") it would work.
 
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JMT said:
Guy wants to run a 9/16" bolt through a 5/8" hole on the frame wide of the front TB.

I think it's just clamping friction that holds a fastener in place, so as long as you follow the torque specs it should work, but I am open to correction. @mrblaine would know. @Mike_H would know, as well as several others who know more about fasteners.

Also, if you found a very narrow sleeve (1/16") it would work.
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The factory TJ came with bolt slots that are 9/16" x 1.25" long in the front lower control arms. The axle is stopped from moving around with a 9/16" bolt torqued properly in that slot. If you can run a 9/16" bolt in a hole that big, running one in a hole that is slightly larger by .03" per side isn't a problem.
 
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mrblaine said:
The factory TJ came with bolt slots that are 9/16" x 1.25" long in the front lower control arms. The axle is stopped from moving around with a 9/16" bolt torqued properly in that slot. If you can run a 9/16" bolt in a hole that big, running one in a hole that is slightly larger by .03" per side isn't a problem.
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Thank you all for the clarification
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator
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