Does Metalcloak make a good track bar?

Bargain Box

Bargain Box

Stand back, I built this s*** myself...
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I'm doing some front end maintenance and I've found that I have a Rubicon Express RE1600 track bar which is designed for 3.5"+ lifts. I'm under this height which means it doesn't have any adjustment and it contacts the diff. This was installed by the PO. I need to replace it but the frame side mount was drilled out for the new style joint. The only reputable brand I can find that has a similar configuration designed for under 3" of lift is the metalcloak track bar. JKS won't work and neither will stock because the hole is too big now. I'm looking for thoughts or options? Does metalcloak make a good track bar? Something I'm missing?

https://rubiconexpress.com/Suspensi...0.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=4164&t_pn=R/ERE1600
https://metalcloak.com/tj-lj-xj-durotrak-track-bar-front-solid-chromoly.html
20220403_115031.jpg
 
Why not just shorten the RE bar? You may be able to take enough off of the threaded side to make it work. Is it just contacting the diff, or interfering?
 
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I was in the same predicament when I bent my RE track at the PO installed. They only track bars I could find with the larger hole were the Metalcloak and the Currie. I went with the Metalcloak and have not had any clearance problems or noise from the helm. I run a Dana 30 with a ARB cover.
 
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Ron505 said:
I run Metalcloak as well with no issue. It will clear your Diff with some room to spare. .
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I'm liking the good reviews about metalcloak because it is a direct swap and is cheaper than JKS or Currie.
 
NskLJ said:
What diff cover are you running? The RE is really thin metal so it is probably bent. The MC is solid I’m sure you could cut some of if needed.
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It doesn't look bent. Stock diff cover. I talked to RE and they said I'm just not tall enough which is why it hits.
 
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Bargain Box said:
It doesn't look bent. Stock diff cover. I talked to RE and they said I'm just not tall enough which is why it hits.
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They have no clue. It hits because it’s poorly designed crap. There is enough info on here about bump stops and keeping things from hitting each other to go into that here.
 
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The rockjock bars are expensive. But everyone I’ve seen that was in your shoes and didn’t pony up for the rockjock bars either wished they did and bought twice or had to do a good bit of modification to make the alternative work. I’m not sure why it’s so difficult to make a bar that doesn’t hit stuff. That applies to both front and rear.
 
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jjvw said:
The rod end on the frame side is garbage.
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I can verify this. I went through two over an 8 year plus period. This doesn't sound bad until you know that during that time I only put 10K miles on the Jeep. Now my choices are either:

Rock Jock - If you're going to play off-road hard
JKS - If you're doing light to moderate wheeling
 
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If I were to go JKS, what do I do with my over sized frame side hole? That's my biggest issue at the moment.
 
NskLJ said:
That was my concern before I purchased it. I have not had any problems so far. Had it on over a year now. In my
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I wore one out in less than 12k miles. The second free one MC gave me lasted about the same.

A worn rod end, especially in a track bar, creates a lot on needless NVH. The very thing Metalcloak prides itself in claiming to reduce.

I switched to Currie/RockJock and never looked back.
 
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NskLJ said:
That was my concern before I purchased it. I have not had any problems so far. Had it on over a year now.
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Also, take the weight of the rod end and give it a shake. See if it clicks.
 
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