Road to 33's and now to 35's: order of updates?

[Irun]

Are you thinking something along the lines of the OME kit from DPG? I thought about that but when pricing it out was similar to Currie 4" so figured it was better to stay with an all SL. Then again, I'm learning, what is the short version on why it is better to do SL + BL instead of SL?

Caveat: Your tire and belly height will determine what you need. However, if your desire is a nice daily driver, minimal work/money, and mild trail riding, I'd put the kit together myself that would include something like this:

Springs - 2.5 Rough Country or OME (Ideally the spring with the longest free length)
Shocks - Rancho RS5000X or Skyjacker Black Max (Which one would depend on measurements from cycling the suspension)
Track bar - front and rear adjustable JKS track bars
Front Sway Bar - Swayloc (You could forgo this and go with a disconnect kit, but the extra coin is worth it here!)
Rear Sway Bar - Any 2 - 3" sway bar links
BL - Savvy 1.25"

Later, you can add a gears, MML, and TT. As for the SL and BL vs SL question, that one has been answered. The biggest plus to the taller SL is more shock travel, but it takes more work and money to run a taller SL.

 

[legobuff]

Appreciate all the input folks. Giving me some things to think about.

Caveat: Your tire and belly height will determine what you need. However, if your desire is a nice daily driver, minimal work/money, and mild trail riding...

@Irun I'm new to the off roading... so not sure on what mild trail riding means here. When in AR/WV I'm typically riding around in a side-by-side thinking this would be a blast with a Jeep. No roads, forest, rocky creeks/streams, and steep inclines. No boulder fields, yet a bunch of shale. Then I have midwest winters to work through... Snow when it comes can be deep... most years though we see < 12" where I am.

 

[jjvw]

I read you. Going 35s though, correct me where I am wrong, means higher lift, more drivetrain modifications. Granted if I can snag an axel swap like @Sensei pointed out I'll have to give it some serious thought.

If you do 33s the correct way without all the shortcuts being suggested, the only difference to get to 35s is a small body lift.

 

[Sensei]

If you do 33s the correct way without all the shortcuts being suggested, the only difference to get to 35s is a small body lift.

I agree with this. If you go straight for the axle upgrade, you're improving your steering, brakes, driving, and handling. The only additional things you'd need besides the axles is a lift (springs, shocks mainly), and possibly an SYE and driveshaft once you start going higher than 3 inches of suspension lift. This will give you everything you need for 33's, with very small additions needed until you can run 35's. Don't forget when you swap the axles, you get to sell your old ones. I managed to get 500$ for my front dana 30 and rear dana 35 pair, bringing my total cost to swap axles with CORRECT gears to 1700$. Considering many people pay that much just to regear, I think it's a steal.

 

[legobuff]

I agree with this. If you go straight for the axle upgrade, you're improving your steering, brakes, driving, and handling. The only additional things you'd need besides the axles is a lift (springs, shocks mainly), and possibly an SYE and driveshaft once you start going higher than 3 inches of suspension lift. This will give you everything you need for 33's, with very small additions needed until you can run 35's. Don't forget when you swap the axles, you get to sell your old ones. I managed to get 500$ for my front dana 30 and rear dana 35 pair, bringing my total cost to swap axles with CORRECT gears to 1700$. Considering many people pay that much just to regear, I think it's a steal.

I did not think of selling the existing axels. I appreciate you both, you bring up good points. Granted now I've to sit back and noodle which way to go and where to spend the $. I (like a kid at Christmas) was hoping to get my way to 33s before Christmas... now though I'm thinking I need to learn some more around the axel swapping. If I go that route, from what you're trying to tell me, no real reason not to go to 35s... and if I go to 35s that will dictate which direction for lift, suspension, etc.

Well I'm glad I asked for input and didn't just start spending on where I thought I was going... and this endeavor is a learning experience for me so no real rush other than I want the new shiny bits. I can sit where I am for a bit to learn, get the garage cleaned out while I do that.

 

[Sensei]

I did not think of selling the existing axels. I appreciate you both, you bring up good points. Granted now I've to sit back and noodle which way to go and where to spend the $. I (like a kid at Christmas) was hoping to get my way to 33s before Christmas... now though I'm thinking I need to learn some more around the axel swapping. If I go that route, from what you're trying to tell me, no real reason not to go to 35s... and if I go to 35s that will dictate which direction for lift, suspension, etc.

Well I'm glad I asked for input and didn't just start spending on where I thought I was going... and this endeavor is a learning experience for me so no real rush other than I want the new shiny bits. I can sit where I am for a bit to learn, get the garage cleaned out while I do that.

If you go the axle swap way, you can easily handle 33's with a 3 inch lift. No reason you couldn't run through a set of 33s before ultimately deciding whether or not going to 35s is right for you.

 

[RINC]

I read you. Going 35s though, correct me where I am wrong, means higher lift, more drivetrain modifications. Granted if I can snag an axel swap like @Sensei pointed out I'll have to give it some serious thought.

Don't trust these f'ing weirdos. I went with 35" tyres to try and keep up with them on the trail. Now I need a ladder to get my fat ass up into my Jeep. SMDH.

 

[primetime4]

I read you. Going 35s though, correct me where I am wrong, means higher lift, more drivetrain modifications. Granted if I can snag an axel swap like @Sensei pointed out I'll have to give it some serious thought.

If you are planning to go through the trouble of installing an SYE, adjustable control arms, regearing and super 35s, you are probably closer to 35s than 33s so this is not a bad idea. All you would need is the body lift.

 

[Hopper]

Damn, on the axels, yeah I'll need to look into that, didn't think I could go that route for amount, figured the re-gear and super 35 would be less.

I like the look of the 35s but just don't see me using them as 35s, not saying where I go won't use them, just on the day to day I'll be on the road... 6-9 times a year will having fun... but if an axel swap plays out cost wise I could see going that route and if so understand the 4.56. I pulled 4.10 from elsewhere in the forum when running 33s and the 32RH.

4.10 same transmition 33s, 4" sl, sye, DC drive shaft and super 35 with detroit locker.

 

[Irun]

Let's ask a different question. Are you willing to spend $8,000+?

 

[legobuff]

Let's ask a different question. Are you willing to spend $8,000+?

Short answer, Yes.

Long story… I’ve wanted a wrangler since I was 6… never pulled the trigger because reasons… wife finally convinced me to get my Jeep at 45 knowing I would be putting in a pretty penny after picking it up ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

My issue is I’m ignorant, I don’t know the right/correct way.

I’ve the $ budgeted and plenty of mechanic buddies all wanting to help me on the project to get the TJ where I want it, allowing me to learn and have some fun along the way. I don’t want to farm the work out and I’d prefer not to do something twice. I’d rather spend what it takes to get it done correct, even if it take it a bit before I can start/get it done.

That said, I’m not made of $ either so there is that, lol

 

[RINC]

My issue is I’m ignorant, I don’t know the right/correct way.

I’ve the $ budgeted and plenty of mechanic buddies all wanting to help me on the project to get the TJ where I want it, allowing me to learn and have some fun along the way. I don’t want to farm the work out and I’d prefer not to do something twice. I’d rather spend what it takes to get it done correct, even if it take it a bit before I can start/get it done.

That said, I’m not made of $ either so there is that, lol

Living the dream. Enjoy it.

 

[BlueC]

My issue is I’m ignorant, I don’t know the right/correct way.

So take your time. Drive your Jeep as is and learn what you like and dislike, then you'll have a base to work off of. Take it and ride some trials. With some decent tires it's capable as is, just know your limitations.

 

[Irun]

My issue is I’m ignorant, I don’t know the right/correct way.

This is part of the problem. There is no one correct way, because people use Jeeps differently. Some are hard core on the rocks, while others just enjoy a topless ride down a dirt trail. The former requires 35" tires, generally speaking, while the latter does not. Regardless of which way you go, the only correct thing to do is to use the best parts available for your build.

 

[UKTJ]

You are getting good advice already. But as another data point I have OME 2.5” SL, 1” MORE BL, a 1” MML and Blackmax shocks. This works fine for me with 33” tyres. No vibration, no SYE and no change of control arms. Big rocks aren’t really available in the UK, so this does what I need and still behaves well on the road.

The one big ticket item I still need to invest in is a regear. When I do that I suspect I will put lockers in front and rear.

But with the budget you are willing to commit you have the option of going down a number of routes to 33” tyres.

 

[Yeti08]

You are getting good advice already. But as another data point I have OME 2.5” SL, 1” MORE BL, a 1” MML and Blackmax shocks. This works fine for me with 33” tyres. No vibration, no SYE and no change of control arms. Big rocks aren’t really available in the UK, so this does what I need and still behaves well on the road.

The one big ticket item I still need to invest in is a regear. When I do that I suspect I will put lockers in front and rear.

But with the budget you are willing to commit you have the option of going down a number of routes to 33” tyres.

this is the way I went:
2inch OME HD lift [2.5]
1 inch MML
front adjustable track bar. switching to JKS

with that setup I run 33's, I don't wheel that often, and i have more mods to finish off but it works really well on the road suspension wise. one recommendation i see a lot of that I should of followed was DPGoffroad, basically I am now following that lift setup.

I plan on 1.25 inch body lift, SYE and tummy tuck. its just when, then i can either stick with 33's or go to 35's

 

[ErikOffroad]

Just thought I’d throw this out there. I’m on a 3 inch lift with 1 1/4 body lift on 33 inch tires, and I barely fit through a standard 7 foot garage door. If I put my Jeep on 35 inch tires and 4 inches of lift there’s no way it would fit inside.

 

[legobuff]

As things progress, thought I'd post an update.

Well I have desires and thoughts around doing the work myself... yet for me to do it means a long process... and need space... I could handle the time, but I've not space right now with winter coming up... so started talking to local shops. Decided to work with TORC Motorsports.

The current plan... In a couple weeks head into the shop to get body work sorted. Then on to the fun stuff. Right now we're talking about the Metal Cloak 3.5" short arm long travel setup with the RockSport shocks and a 1.25" BL. Doing a 8.8 swap, gear the whole thing at 4.56, adding in ARB Lockers front and rear (Originally looked at Eaton but can't seem to get that for 4.56), SYE and drive shaft upgrades. I'm sure I'm missing some miscellaneous items, but that is the gist. Then I can put on the 35's or so I hope.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

You would not need an axle swap for 35" tires with a Super 35 kit from www.revolutiongear.com, that kit makes your Dana 35 more than strong enough for 35's and any locker available for use with that kit. For 35" tires regear to 4.56, if you decide to stick with 33's regear to 4.10. Those ratios are based on your 3-speed 32RH automatic so if you get different ratio recommendations they're not likely taking your 32RH automatic transmission into account which requires different ratios than other transmissions would require.

Your Currie manufacturer choice was an excellent one, you'd never regret it. That or Savvy, both are superb/top-echelon manufacturers. For 33's a 3" suspension lift plus a 1" to 1.25" body lift is ideal. For 35's a 4" suspension lift plus a 1" to 1.25" body lift is ideal, though with 4" or taller suspension lifts you'd need to install a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) kit into your transfer case and replace the factory rear driveshaft with an aftermarket DC (double-cardan) driveshaft which will eliminate the drivetrain vibrations a 4" suspension lift causes. You'll still get drivetrain vibrations even with a 3" suspension lift but those can be eliminated with a pair of 1" taller motor mounts (called a motor mount lift) kit, just make sure the motor mounts come with rubber bushings, not polyurethane which causes engine vibrations to be transferred into the passenger compartment.

Good luck with it! By the way your 32RH automatic is a superb transmission. I installed one into my previous TJ and loved it. Just make sure to regularly check its ATF level so it's up to the full mark. Check it only while the engine is running and while it is shifted into Neutral. Its ATF level cannot be checked if it's in Park or if the engine is not running.

 

[legobuff]

Thank you @Jerry I hear you on the axle swap. What pushed me that way was that working with the shop the cost is about a wash and I get a beefier axle and disk brakes... so I was thinking why not at that point.

The people here and at the shop pretty much convinced to me just to go the 35" route. So I chose 4.56 based on your recommendations I've ready throughout the forums

I'll talk with the shop around the Currie vs Metal Cloak. The price diff isn't that much, yet they said I didn't need to spend the extra plus shocks to meet my needs.

Thank you for the info on the ATF level. Did not know about the running and in neutral.