Yesso should we be saying it's 3/4 - 7/8" or 7/8 - 1"?
It's Yukon, no idea.And within Yukon, is this an early/late differentiator or is it random like they're just picking today's hub supplier out of a hat?
Yesso should we be saying it's 3/4 - 7/8" or 7/8 - 1"?
It's Yukon, no idea.And within Yukon, is this an early/late differentiator or is it random like they're just picking today's hub supplier out of a hat?
We don't buy from Yukon. We get hub kit conversions in from customers that need them adapted to our brake kits. These are issues from that part. We do installs but I try not to buy anything unless it comes from my Yukon authorized seller simply due to all of these issues. That hub kit problem was from a kit they supplied and they still didn't want to take care of it.
The stubs have to be installed on your inners.Already have the 15/16" BBK, RGA Discovery axles (5-760X U-joints), aftermarket wheels.
Wondering if there's other things need done to install the Yukon YA-WU-O7 on the Dana 44 w/BBK?
Tutorial/how-to/YT?
No idea.Have there been any issues with purchasing the kit from Amazon? Looks like it's a direct from Yukon purchase.
If you can change the vibes that easily, no need for the hub kit.Have the harmonic oscillation after a re-gear. It's not a huge concern, I've either become accustomed to it or it's gone after installing the UCF engine skid and/or a couple hundred pound of gear in my Tuffy rear box (both theoretical potential fixes).
I don't have a winter project so considering this. I love having Warn hubs on the XJ.
Since I seem to have become accustomed to the minor vibe/hum and if there's no potential for damage to the drivetrain I'll just leave it be.The stubs have to be installed on your inners.
The holes in the bearing hub need to be checked for fitment on the wheel stud knurls and corrected if needed.
The hole in rotor has to be opened up to fit the bearing snout on the back side of the bearing hub.
Depending on the shoulder diameter right under the head on the stud, the holes in the rotor may have to be opened up or a new pattern clocked over and redrilled if they are too large now.
Studs mount rotor to back of bearing hub and should be pressed in.
No idea.
If you can change the vibes that easily, no need for the hub kit.
Since I seem to have become accustomed to the minor vibe/hum and if there's no potential for damage to the drivetrain I'll just leave it be.
Gonna hang onto your reply this time since I know it's not the first time you've given it to me.
Have there been any issues with purchasing the kit from Amazon? Looks like it's a direct from Yukon purchase.
Do I need the complete kit with new 'outer axles' as shown?
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-19090418-yukon-free-spin-kit-dana-30-tj-xj-yj-5x4-5.html
I just had RGA axles installed with new Motive 5.13 gears along with the 15/16" BMB BBK.
The answer if you get into trouble is but a phone call away. We have solved just about every problem there is to solve with those kits so the answer is pretty well known no matter what you run into.
Do I need the complete kit with new 'outer axles' as shown?
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-19090418-yukon-free-spin-kit-dana-30-tj-xj-yj-5x4-5.html
I just had RGA axles installed with new Motive 5.13 gears along with the 15/16" BMB BBK.
Blaine schooled me on this topic last year. I'm currently running the 30-spline Yukon kit.
IIRC:
If you get Yukon's 30-spline or 27-spline free-spin hub kit, you will use the stub shafts (outer shafts) supplied in the Yukon hub kit.
Your R&G inners should work with the Yukon hub kit —> if they utilize the 5-760x joint. Your R&G inners will not work if they use a larger joint.
Last I was aware, R&G's non-domestic-sourced inner axles (from India as of last year) used the 5-760x joint that could be paired with the Yukon hub kit, but R&G's US-sourced Dana 30/44 front shafts used a larger joint that caused the inner shafts to not work with the stub shafts supplied in the aforementioned Yukon hub kits.
Got it. These are my axles (5-760):
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...volution-gear-discovery-series-front-axle-kit
Gonna pull the new UCF engine skid, then the front driveline and see what shakes out. Then, depending, off to the driveline shop for a balance. He suggested a larger diameter front driveshaft as a possible remedy. Beats me..
Thinking I might order the -07 Yukon kit while it's available and if not needed (fat chance) then I could sell unopened. Fingers crossed that Yukon won't screw the pooch and send me incorrect or incomplete parts (another fat chance with my luck).
Call Yukon and verify before purchasing from Amazon. I know couple local horror stories.
The 7/8" per side depends on when it was made and by whom. I have 2 Yukon hubs here that are not the same thickness.
View attachment 346223
View attachment 346224
Got on chat with Yukon and they said their standard warranty is honored if purchased via Amazon, which turn out to be Quick Performance in Iowa. Arrived in 2 days.
7/16" is fine for the rear. My preference would be hub centric both ways for that type spacer in that it will slip on over the studs. The rest can wait until you get a number.So I guess I need to measure the kit to get the exact thickness to help determine required back spacing on wheels.
Comments quoted are in reference to potential use of my beadlocks that measure 4.5" back spacing. (I'm currently running wheels with 3.75" BS and BMB 15 - 16 BBK). If the beadlocks will work nicely I'll have to get spacers for the rear (I have a set of 7/16" laying around but not finding anything in 7/8". Would 1" be appropriate? Dang details.
"Folks have reported the 07 kit to widen each side by about .75, so let's assume that's correct.
This means you will be running at 3.75" if your wheels have 4.5" of BS (4.5-.75 = 3.75). If they are 4.625" then that puts you at 3.875" (4.625-.75).
The goal is to be near or within the range of 3.75" and 4" of BS. I prefer being on the lower end of that range bc I prefer the stance and want my tire away from the swayloc, while others might prefer being on the upper limit of that prioritizing scrub radius."
Thanks
Trying to get in my head what 'both ways' is. Both OD of the full spacer and ID of the hub?7/16" is fine for the rear. My preference would be hub centric both ways for that type spacer in that it will slip on over the studs.
Trying to get in my head what 'both ways' is. Both OD of the full spacer and ID of the hub?
They make them that specific I'm guessing. Time to get some measuring done.
View attachment 373276
Yes, hub centric to the rotor pilot on the axle shaft and hub centric to the ID of the wheel center bore. I can't prove it makes a difference, it just satisfies my sensibilities about how it should be when the spacer can't be bolted to the axle.
From JeepForum: "71.5mm is Jeep centerbore for all the 5x4.5 stuff."
Is that accurate? Misplaced my caliper when a friend helped me put tools away .. and the LJ is not available right now.
How precisely does the F/R track width have to match?If you plan to run that spacer to fix the back spacing on the rim, the only way to do that is with aftermarket axle shafts with screw in studs so you can get longer studs if needed.
Sounds like you'd be surprised if the Titan hub-centric would match up with the RGA axle hub?If that is the plan, then trusting the aftermarket to accurately machine the pilot on an axle shaft is not something I would do.