Rock slider mount to frame, best practice?
- Thread starter AeroSigma
- Start date
Hmm.
Depends on what you are using it for.
If you just want to mount them as steps, drill the frame and install nutserts.
If you are going to actually rub rocks, don't install those and look for correct sliders. They should mount to the body, and not the frame.
I am sure this wasn't what you wanted to hear, but it is the truth.
Depends on what you are using it for.
If you just want to mount them as steps, drill the frame and install nutserts.
If you are going to actually rub rocks, don't install those and look for correct sliders. They should mount to the body, and not the frame.
I am sure this wasn't what you wanted to hear, but it is the truth.
Welcome! After buying mine Jeep, an early change was to take the nerf bars off. Best is mounted to the tub itself.
My sliders now can take the weight of the Jeep without damage. The Warn sliders I have are not the best but are way better than the nerf bars.
Look here. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rock-sliders-rocker-guards-guide.8704/
Welcome to the forum.
As already said if you just want a step then what you have are fine but if you want true sliders then read the above linked thread. If you want to wheel your TJ up here in the PNW you'll want some better sliders to protect the tub.
As already said if you just want a step then what you have are fine but if you want true sliders then read the above linked thread. If you want to wheel your TJ up here in the PNW you'll want some better sliders to protect the tub.
Yes, they will rub rocks, I got these for free, so its not too big a deal, but question: why should they mount to the body, isn't the idea that they protect the body, and shouldn't the frame be stronger?
I will read through that linked thread shortly, thanks for the help!
Which slider type robs the Jeep of ground clearance? Which type offers the most leverage against it's attachment point to bend and cause damage to the Jeep?
Neither is the tub mounted slider.
Have you thought about making a change to that hood?
I hate you right now.
Instead of being obtuse like some people... The reason you dont want something that mounts to the frame, like the tubes you have, is there's nothing keeping the tubes from slamming into your body tub when you lean into or fall on a big rocks... they can end up doing more damage to the tub than the rock itself...
Since you're in Portland the nearest area to play is Tillamook state forest. Make sure you get the off-road sticker before going.
If you want to travel a bit there are spots in WA and central OR also.
The reason not to use those bars have been covered.
Those will dent and push into the tub causing body damage. The mounting points along the frame are not enough to hold up the weight of the Jeep. You could cause frame damage too. Good rock sliders mount directly to the tub and torque boxes, are wheel well to wheel well, have an internal backing plate/brace, and follow some type of boat side design. There are not a lot of good options available.
Last edited:
spiccolli
Member
I love my sliders - they mount to tub mounts, are full sliders, act as a step for the woman, and are very affordable.
https://www.hylineoffroad.com/jeep_parts/jeep_tj_rock_sliders_97_06_wrangler_tj
https://www.hylineoffroad.com/jeep_parts/jeep_tj_rock_sliders_97_06_wrangler_tj
While frame mounted naturally sounds stronger than tub mounted it definitely(!) is not. Frame mounted means long brackets between the frame and slider which flex which allows the slider to deflect and be forced into the tub in more difficult wheeling situations. Not to mention they have a lot of leverage against where they are bolted to the frame. Plus seldom are frame mounted sliders made from much more than thinner tubular steel. Frame mounted sliders are adequate as a step and protection against some rubbing or minor impacts on easier trails but that's pretty much it.
Tub mounted sliders are generally made of significantly heavier/thicker steel or steel and aluminum that are bolted directly to the tub with many bolts. Some like Savvy's also come with an inside reinforcement plate to sandwich the tub's rocker. Their length, height, thickness, and design that integrates them into the heavy and very rigid tub make them hold up to nearly anything. If you're a rock crawler this is the only design that will hold up.
This is the Savvy rocker guard I installed onto my previous TJ. Aluminum base plate and inside reinforcement plate, separate HEAVY steel outer rub rail that attaches to the aluminum base plate. There is no leverage against anything with this tub-mounted slider like there is with frame-mounted sliders. The outer steel rub rail can be replaced by itself if it ever gets severely damaged. Mine is severely and deeply scraped up and dented but it's not in need of replacement.
Tub mounted sliders are generally made of significantly heavier/thicker steel or steel and aluminum that are bolted directly to the tub with many bolts. Some like Savvy's also come with an inside reinforcement plate to sandwich the tub's rocker. Their length, height, thickness, and design that integrates them into the heavy and very rigid tub make them hold up to nearly anything. If you're a rock crawler this is the only design that will hold up.
This is the Savvy rocker guard I installed onto my previous TJ. Aluminum base plate and inside reinforcement plate, separate HEAVY steel outer rub rail that attaches to the aluminum base plate. There is no leverage against anything with this tub-mounted slider like there is with frame-mounted sliders. The outer steel rub rail can be replaced by itself if it ever gets severely damaged. Mine is severely and deeply scraped up and dented but it's not in need of replacement.
Yes, the frame is very much stronger. The problem is not the strength of the frame but instead, the length of the lever working against it. The sliders you posted up have very long tubes to get them out from under the tub so they can get in the way between the rocks and the tub. That puts a lot of leverage against the ends of the tubes where they mount to the frame. Bolts will just pull out and flex so then the obvious solution is to make them very heavy duty and then weld them to the frame with some gussets. That will stop them from flexing but, it won't solve the big problem which is the frame just isn't rigid enough at the upper part of it through the body mounts so a hard hit just rotates the top of the frame inward. Due to the length of the lever, it only has to move a small mount for the slider to make contact with the body and damage it. And that my friend is how you stop from being obtuse while also being accurate.
Have you thought about making a change to that hood?
That's an old pic when he had BFG AT tires. The hood isn't that pretty and shiny now.
Are you saying only women need steps? Have you seen @Kiwi TJ? I've heard hobbit stories about him.
p.s. Loved you in Fast Times at Ridgemont High.
the trick is that the body mounted ones take the concentrated impact from a rock that would normally dent the bottom of the tub, and disperses it along the entire length between the wheelwells.
I’ve seen a lot of frame mounted stuff on other 4x4 cars give me the sense that they’re stronger but have realized they are only offered when the body isn’t adequately build to accommodate a good body mounted slider to it. Example is my buddy has an fzj80 Land Cruiser and it just doesn’t have enough space to fit a body slider, thus everyone does frame mounted. Not because it’s better but bc there isn’t enough space to have it mount properly. For our tjs the body mounted is superior and every design aspect with savvy’s makes use of strength, not messing with the body mounts, and the perfect rub rail/step that almost all other tj body mounted sliders fail to do.
Thanks everyone! I can totally see the leverage issue, since the frame-mounted bolts on right where the impact is, rather than some inches interior to it, so there's no leverage issue. And that makes sense that the stiff metal of a rock slider will protect the body from a focused point of impact and spread the force out. Will definitely go look for some frame-mounted sliders.
Since I can't DM yet, Wildman, I'll ask here. My brother and I have done Tillamook a ton on dirt bikes, and will definitely head back this summer since he just picked up a Wragler as well. So we're quite familiar with the OHV process. I'd love to get pointed to some good spots in WA and Central that you like, what are your recommendations?
Since I can't DM yet, Wildman, I'll ask here. My brother and I have done Tillamook a ton on dirt bikes, and will definitely head back this summer since he just picked up a Wragler as well. So we're quite familiar with the OHV process. I'd love to get pointed to some good spots in WA and Central that you like, what are your recommendations?
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