Autos already have the supposed benefit of "manualmatic". Mine lists PRND21 on the console.
Autos already have the supposed benefit of "manualmatic". Mine lists PRND21 on the console.
Does the 32rh also do that? I guess I was under the impression that it didn't let you do that.
K I'm dumb. I guess it's benefit is probably like the OD deactivation button everyone puts in for the 42rle
Understanding something and knowing how it works does not mean you have feelings about it. It just means you understand.Sometimes things are lost in translation, I suppose. But yes, I did try to find what you wrote about it myself instead of listening to other's interpretations. It still kinda sounds like you do - I guess it's just a strong dislike when in the TJ?
100% bullshit. If they ran a gauge with a sender in the pan, they'd see a lot of sustained 230+ temps running up hills on the highway.Yes this is definitely the case when my XJ buddies say it doesn't run hot. No gauges, it just keeps working.
Do yourself and everyone on here a favor. Start a post asking how many folks that run autos would like to be forced to manually shift them as a daily. On trail, we all do. Drop it in first for 90% of the day when it is in 4 low. Other than that, manual shift sucks donkey balls. And if you haven't driven one, you have zero appreciation for how much they are not fun.The electronic shifting is supposed to be a lot nicer, and the ability to turn it into a "manualmatic" also seemed desirable for easy forest road trails. Although in practice, I have no idea if that's useful. I have never wheeled an auto.
Remember my comment about making sure all the other trade-offs you wind up with are in fact worth it? You want your cruise control to work? Fine, send the auto PCM out and get the TCC circuit killed and then the CEL for it not being there because that is the only way you can make the cruise function. Not saying that is a deal breaker, just a small example of the bullshit that is that swap.My thoughts were also that a non-ideal OD was better than no OD at all. Sounds like that's not really the case?
2 out of 10 still in play. Those are shit numbers.Yeah I definitely can admit that I'm that guy - I am trying, but there isn't any way to talk my through understanding the comprises that come in the future since I've just never built a jeep like that. I'm not sure I'll ever get to that point in my jeep honestly, but I guess might as well try not to make it a non-option by decisions made now.
Yeah... that is worrying. I sure would hate to do something to my jeep that makes me enjoy it less to drive. That could push me out of the hobby if it's bad enough.
The fact that I can't fit my dog, my wheeling gear box, and my passenger seat in my TJ has always been in the back of my head for needing an LJ too fwiw...
Jeep gave us the OD off button on the 42rle. My Liberty has one too. It's labeled as tow/haul. It's use is unrelated to being able to shift into 1st/2nd.
That would be a mistake. But I'm starting to notice a trend here.I'd likely try to find a HP30 if that is what I end up with.
Does the 32rh also do that? I guess I was under the impression that it didn't let you do that.
I see I see yeah that makes sense.Understanding something and knowing how it works does not mean you have feelings about it. It just means you understand.
Yeah I think my thoughts here are related to only ever driving my manual jeep. No idea how an auto behaves really, or how often you actually get annoyed by it shifting when you didn't want it to.100% bullshit. If they ran a gauge with a sender in the pan, they'd see a lot of sustained 230+ temps running up hills on the highway.
Do yourself and everyone on here a favor. Start a post asking how many folks that run autos would like to be forced to manually shift them as a daily. On trail, we all do. Drop it in first for 90% of the day when it is in 4 low. Other than that, manual shift sucks donkey balls. And if you haven't driven one, you have zero appreciation for how much they are not fun.
I don't have CC alreadyRemember my comment about making sure all the other trade-offs you wind up with are in fact worth it? You want your cruise control to work? Fine, send the auto PCM out and get the TCC circuit killed and then the CEL for it not being there because that is the only way you can make the cruise function. Not saying that is a deal breaker, just a small example of the bullshit that is that swap.
2 out of 10 still in play. Those are shit numbers.
Ah right it's wiring that button to be default to off that people do or something huh.
If you can't put your wheeling gear in 3 medium soft bags smaller than a six pack igloo cooler, you're doing it wrong, very wrong.
That would be a mistake. But I'm starting to notice a trend here.
Ah right it's wiring that button to be default to off that people do or something huh.
Why? I'm making mistakes cos I'm trying to learn. I thought the HP Dana 30 was enough for 35s w/ chromo shafts, and better ground clearance than the 44?
5.38's. Now what?
Bins are dumb because they take up more space than the stuff that is stored in them. And, they have angled sides which are horrible inefficient and take up even more space because the rim that the lid fits over is larger than the base by more than a little.I have all my stuff in one of those black bins with a yellow lid that are everywhere, the smaller version.
Plug and patch kit belongs with the air stuff. You use them both on tires, they go in the tire bag. Recovery bag has JUST recovery stuff in it. If the shackles are steel, throw all but one of them on the shelf in the garage and get some soft shackles. Winch remote and gloves go beside the driver's seat and rocker in that little space there. Recovery bag goes where it can be reached from outside the vehicle easily in case you get in a spot where you can't leave the driver's seat to hand it out to someone.I have a plug/patch kit, shackles, winch remote, gloves, 1 tool roll, 1 tool bag, and I started jamming in my [fake] impact and a drill in a bag just cos they fit. An ammo can under the drivers seat for my air stuff. Box is strapped in the back, I typically throw my backpack with food and jacket and etc between my seat and box. It's not a lot of stuff, my dog is just long
I agree with the wasted space, but my thinking with the box is I can put the lid on and strap it down. There is some wasted space but unless I built stuff to sit on the wheel wells (which would've been a good idea until I started thinking about selling...) It won't open up much useable space if I just strap the bags down.Bins are dumb because they take up more space than the stuff that is stored in them. And, they have angled sides which are horrible inefficient and take up even more space because the rim that the lid fits over is larger than the base by more than a little.
The viar 88p I have basically takes up the entire box, plus deflators and gauge. I was hoping to do the AC compressor mod eventually but haven't gotten around to that.Plug and patch kit belongs with the air stuff. You use them both on tires, they go in the tire bag. Recovery bag has JUST recovery stuff in it. If the shackles are steel, throw all but one of them on the shelf in the garage and get some soft shackles. Winch remote and gloves go beside the driver's seat and rocker in that little space there. Recovery bag goes where it can be reached from outside the vehicle easily in case you get in a spot where you can't leave the driver's seat to hand it out to someone.
That's the ratio you want with the 42rle? Yeah that would be dumb then.
So ideally, no matter if I find an LJR or get a non-rubi, I will need to find a Dana 44 for the front. That is good to know, adds a little more value to getting the rubi if possible since those front axles seem to go for quite a bit used.