Jeep Wrangler TJ Performance PCM Tuning

Looking into upgrading my TJ speakers

AdelaideTJ said:
Here are the files I used (I will need to take some new pics to show the output, don't seem to have them after all):

Tweeter pods
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2894802
5.25" sound pods
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2947831
6.5" adapter ring:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3354506
The front sound pods worked beautifully, which was the main thing. It comes out in four separate pieces, basically a faceplate and pod for both left and right sides. I used plastic cement to seal the two halves of each pod together and drilled a narrow hole in the back for wires. I filled the pod itself with polyfill.

I had a bit of trouble with the adapter rings for the rear stock sound pods, but that was because of my particular speaker. They would be good in general, but I think everyone's experience with these may vary. In my case, I used Alpine Type R 6.5" component speakers (R-S65C.2). The issue with these was that they are hefty and the metal housing which holds the magnet protrudes almost perpendicular to the front of the cone (left), whereas most speakers have sharper angles (right):

View attachment 436022

I had to dremel a decent chunk of material off of my adapter rings in order to get the speaker to go through. So really depends what speakers you have. I think some people have dropped 6.5" speakers straight into the stock hole and screwed the speakers and grilles directly to the sound pod. I wanted to keep mine somewhat reversible and not mangle any stock parts more than necessary:

Can see the printed adapter rings and pods here (I will post another pic of them installed when I get a chance to take one). I had the 5.25" kicker speakers a lot of people use up front, but am about to replace with better Alpine component ones and tweeters (plan is to use the tweeter pods linked above)
View attachment 436023

View attachment 436024
Click to expand...

Looks like I'm off to check out if my local library has a 3D printer.
 
txbemis69 said:
i’m guessing it’s ok to wire the 4 ohm dual voice coil sub to 2 ohm while the others are running at 4 ohm, all running off of the same amp? ready to order the pieces to this puzzle, just wanted to make sure i’ve got the right pieces.
Click to expand...

You’re correct.
 
CreepinDeth said:
May I ask those of you with 3D printing experience what printer you would recommend thats a good product and has very versatile capacity??

Im new to 3D printing and wanna buy one now since I finally have something I want to produce

Good?? Bad?? Recommend better??
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5QF985Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Click to expand...
Not so clear on the actual printer itself, but can weigh in on filament. A lot of places will offer PLA and the creator of the files I linked above mentions that he used PLA and it stood up to the Texas heat, but in Australia we get regularly get days into 110+ degrees F each summer. I ended up using PETG as it has a higher heat resistance. The pay off is that it costs more than PLA. I also did it for longevity as well, because it is stronger. I think either of those filaments would work fine in Chicago. I guess read some info on the available printers and find one that supports the size you need (the rings have a wide diameter as far as consumer 3d printing goes) and one that can use either PLA or PETG.
 
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CreepinDeth said:
May I ask those of you with 3D printing experience what printer you would recommend thats a good product and has very versatile capacity??

Im new to 3D printing and wanna buy one now since I finally have something I want to produce

Good?? Bad?? Recommend better??
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5QF985Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Click to expand...
Here's the thread from the original creator of the files and includes some recommendations on the printer:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/3d-printable-pods-for-5-25-in-dash-speakers.11256/
 
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Zorba said:
That is an entirely different product for an entirely different issue. I'm using those as well - but honestly don't know what they do if anything. They supposedly close the back off so the sound doesn't escape as readily in that direction, the foam rings pipe it out the front - this latter I can attest to. Still, I cut a hole in those back shells to let the speaker breathe. I figure the back shells are 90% of the $90 "pods" at 10% the cost.

I also did this to the soundbar enclosures, in addition to some boom mat and polyfill inside:

View attachment 435996

View attachment 435997

View attachment 435998
With a significant improvement in sound quality therefrom.

And I'm in complete agreement about the Marine Grade speakers - if you need them, you need them. Those who have never had to contend with a marine environment will learn quickly that its not the same as an airplane.
Click to expand...

what did you use for the ports on your speaker pods? any poly fill inside?
 
txbemis69 said:
what did you use for the ports on your speaker pods? any poly fill inside?
Click to expand...

Some kind of Chinesium ports I got on eBay. Don't confuse them with anything that's been "Tuned", but an A/B test conducted with my thumb over the port showed quite the difference. Poly fill inside, and a bit of boom mat on the topside as well (since I had it).
 
thread made me do some research. Just wanted to point out that there are 2 different ways that sensitivity is reported. While I think 1w/1m is the most common - some companies report it at 2.83v/1m. That works out mathmatically fine for 8ohm speakers (it is the same). When it is used for 4ohm speakers it comes out to 2w/m. Since doubling power tends to increase volume by 3db's - when you subtract that you get a more realistic efficiency. So the super efficient speakers I was looking at were measured at 2.83v/m - and were 3ohm. I gave up not wanting to do the math. Pretty sure in the end they were no more efficient than the others I was looking at.
 
Be careful with those low cost amps. I had one. It was constantly running hot and shutting off. I could fry an egg on it.
 
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So I ended up starting with the Kicker speakers everyone loves, but sending them all back.

Right now my fronts I just tried the Infinity Reference 5030 components side by side with the Kickers, and the Infinitys won. The tweeter on top of the dash provides a much better sound then just coaxials pointed at my knees

https://www.caraudionow.com/best-5-...#h-best-5-1-4-speaker-if-money-were-no-object
Rear I put 6.5” Skar Audio Tx65 for now, but I have some Cerwin Vega 6.5” Im going to try now also
 
CreepinDeth said:
So I ended up starting with the Kicker speakers everyone loves, but sending them all back.

Right now my fronts I just tried the Infinity Reference 5030 components side by side with the Kickers, and the Infinitys won. The tweeter on top of the dash provides a much better sound then just coaxials pointed at my knees

[URL][URL]https://www.caraudionow.c...#h-best-5-1-4-speaker-if-money-were-no-object[/URL][/URL]

Rear I put 6.5” Skar Audio Tx65 for now, but I have some Cerwin Vega 6.5” Im going to try now also
Click to expand...

The reason people love things is specific to each person. The Kicker KSS that most like, come with the tweeter mounting pods and are a great deal, easy to install and sound great over the stock set-up.

Most people don't want to buy components and then source pods, or even 3D print them. That's why the Kickers are well liked.

I always point people towards their budget, but will always throw out the Kicker KSS for those previous mentioned reasons, or buying a quality component set with legit tweeter pods, or buy some high quality tweeters, and pair with some good 5.25" speakers and go active with a DSP. How did you mount the infinity tweeters?

BLAM, Audiotec Fischer, Micro Precision, Ground Zero, Jehnert are all phenomenal speaker companies with lots of options. PRV audio has some crazy loud 5" speakers with high sensitivity ratings. The Brazilian audio companies are not well known but have some of the craziest builds I have seen.

https://prvaudio.com/products/5mr450-ndy-4/

Screenshot_20230709-210232.png
 
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The tweeters are just standing for now

Strictly testing, and Im not fully completed with my total install yet either. Its all test n tune before finalization.

I will need to print the tweeter stands before I make it permanent and road worthy.

I need to contact Infinity because Im not 100% sure if they rated their speakers 1m/1v like is standard or 1m/2.83v which is the common false advertising Im seeing alot more prevalently lately

At least Crutchfield lists the speakers accurately but they dont have these now
 
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