Jeep Wrangler PCM and module repair and replacement

Need advice on build! 05 LJ

ObedaTJ

ObedaTJ

TJ Enthusiast
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Joined
Nov 1, 2018
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329
Location
New York
So I have finally managed to pay off all debt, including student loans at 24, I own two Harleys, an 05 LJ with 66k on the dash, and feel like I have some freedom financially to build my Jeep.
Right now it is sitting an old 2.5 EMU lift, no body lift and honestly pretty stock (Dana 30/Dana 44 3.73 on 33s). I have already been reading a bunch of threads and doing my research. This build will be for light off-road trails, some mudding, I don’t anticipate any even slight rock crawling in NY. It will also be driven around 5-6k miles a year, so comfort is a must. I also plan on putting 35s in the very near future.

What I have so far sitting in the garage is;
  • Bilstein 5100 shocks 4 inch lift
  • 4" JKS dual rate coil springs
  • 1.25 Zone Off-road body lift (although I don't really want a body lift to be honest)
  • 1" JKS motor mount lift
  • JKS Quicker disconnect sway bar links
  • Core 4x4 Adjustable Control arms
  • Tom Woods front & rear drive shafts
  • Extended brake lines
  • Bump stops, cups & sway bar bushings
End of December I will be picking up some new to me Dana 30/Dana 44 axles, with 5.13 gears, ARB lockers, brakes, track bar and new suspension parts. The axles seem to be in excellent condition and will save me a lot of time and money just bolting them in, rather than rebuilding the ones I have in now.

Although the body lift and mml are here, I still have 30 days to return them, so do I really need them, I am going with a Metalcloak all around body kit, the fenders, front and rear, rock sliders and armor as well, so I am not sure if I really need the body lift for the clearance. I just don't want it to make my Jeep ugly lol.

I am not an expert by any means, but these are the parts I have ready to be installed, and was looking for any tips or recommendations, any problems I may run into? I am looking to really build this to my preference! Which is comfort and durability.
 
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John Cooper said:
Calling @NashvilleTJ and @gasiorv

Welcome to the forum and all I can say is ...... juantans and fodeez!!!!!
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1700852425400.webp
 
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ObedaTJ said:
I’m in Westchester county. What would you let ‘em go for?
Click to expand...

I’m up around Buffalo. From what I’ve seen new the front and rears go for ~$1300 so I’d probably take somewhere around $1k.

Minimal to zero rust. Willing to send pictures if you want.
 
"This build will be for light off-road trails, some mudding, I don’t anticipate any even slight rock crawling in NY. It will also be driven around 5-6k miles a year, so comfort is a must. I also plan on putting 35s in the very near future."

Do minimum for 33's and drive. Big step to 35's as all will tell you. With your new axles, 5.13 and ARB and 33's, there will be nowhere you cannot go. (and Warn used older 8, 9 or 9.5 winch)
 
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Your definitely on the right track. I didn't see SYE on your build list, but with the new Tom Woods driveshafts, I'm assuming that is in the mix (if not, add it before you order driveshafts). With your setup, you can go 35's with chromo axles in the front, but Dana 44 or HP Dana 30 would be better, and Black Magic break pads (or even better, the Big Brake kit). That body lift will also set you up for belly-up and fuel tank skid upgrades down the road. If you're wanting to run 33's now, you can hold on the body lift and MM lift (as long as you add the SYE) and it'll still look right. Then you can add those when you're ready to go 35's (and I bet you don't wear out your 33's before you pull the trigger on the 35's.)
 
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I'm runnung 37s on a 3.5 lift, 1 in motor mount llift, UCFs ultra high and no body lift on a 2006 Rubicon. It can be done. A small body lift would make life easy. But if you really don't want the body lift, avoid it.
 
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jeepguyOC said:
I'm runnung 37s on a 3.5 lift, 1 in motor mount llift, UCFs ultra high and no body lift on a 2006 Rubicon. It can be done. A small body lift would make life easy. But if you really don't want the body lift, avoid it.
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How much of the floor did you cut out?
 
No cuts, it is close. I managed to keep 1/4" clearence around the transfercase. A few 1" socket impressions in a few key areas in the tub and it clears. I am also running the UFC lopro transmition mount.

20231025_113828.jpg
 
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PNW_LJ said:
This.

Only thing is to ditch the JKS body lift, for a Savvy or BMB one.
Click to expand...

The body lift is Zone Off-Road and it's 1.25 inches, it was $100 and had good reviews.
The 1-inch motor mount lift is JKS.
LJBean said:
Your definitely on the right track. I didn't see SYE on your build list, but with the new Tom Woods driveshafts, I'm assuming that is in the mix (if not, add it before you order driveshafts). With your setup, you can go 35's with chromo axles in the front, but Dana 44 or HP Dana 30 would be better, and Black Magic break pads (or even better, the Big Brake kit). That body lift will also set you up for belly-up and fuel tank skid upgrades down the road. If you're wanting to run 33's now, you can hold on the body lift and MM lift (as long as you add the SYE) and it'll still look right. Then you can add those when you're ready to go 35's (and I bet you don't wear out your 33's before you pull the trigger on the 35's.)
Click to expand...

I did not have that on the list as I thought I would not need an SYE for an LJ, but if need be I can get one. The axles I am getting I believe are HP. I will have to get the chromoly axles before I put on 35s just to be safe.
 
ObedaTJ said:
The body lift is Zone Off-Road and it's 1.25 inches, it was $100 and had good reviews.
The 1-inch motor mount lift is JKS.


I did not have that on the list as I thought I would not need an SYE for an LJ, but if need be I can get one. The axles I am getting I believe are HP. I will have to get the chromoly axles before I put on 35s just to be safe.
Click to expand...

If you already have the driveshafts for a slip yoke setup, youll have to reorder the rear if you decide to go with a SYE. You can likely get by without the SYE if you're doing the MML. You'll have to adjust the fan shroud unless you're installing a body lift at the same time. You may get lucky and not have vibes even without the MML, but that wasn't the case when I first lifted my LJ.
 
LJBean said:
If you already have the driveshafts for a slip yoke setup, youll have to reorder the rear if you decide to go with a SYE. You can likely get by without the SYE if you're doing the MML. You'll have to adjust the fan shroud unless you're installing a body lift at the same time. You may get lucky and not have vibes even without the MML, but that wasn't the case when I first lifted my LJ.
Click to expand...

I have not ordered the driveshafts yet, but I am installing the body lift and MML at the same time
 

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