What did you do to your TJ today?

Basic fab for, lots more finish work to do tomorrow, lateral braces, grind, paint, nutserts, ect. But getting there, to my specs, and waaaay cheaper than the ‘overland’ stuff.

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About 30 lbs looking at 40 lbs when done the. Tray is pretty light repurposed from this… we’ll see how well it holds up planned load is a medium cooler and 2.5gal gas.

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Mogas 6lbs per gal:
So 2.5gal est. 16lbs w container,
Cooler at 25 lbs max
80 lbs loaded is my goal, we’ll see how it holds. I’m going to drive a nearby parking lot and ‘curb check’ before anything serious.
 
Would it be OK to take some fine grit sandpaper and take off the rust that's on the rotor and the other thing (don't know the name of it 😶

Just don't sand the copper windings because they're covered in lacquer or shellac...any of that cracks and the coil shorts and isn't as effective.

Rectifier bridge is usually $15 to $20 and the first part to burn out...I'd probably replace it...my local auto electric shop...Zilkowski's in Eugene built mine.

-Mac
 
Just don't sand the copper windings because they're covered in lacquer or shellac...any of that cracks and the coil shorts and isn't as effective.

Rectifier bridge is usually $15 to $20 and the first part to burn out...I'd probably replace it...my local auto electric shop...Zilkowski's in Eugene built mine.

-Mac

Gotcha i appreciate the info man !
I might risk it and just solder back the bridge the alternator, Before i tore it all apart the alternator tested to be really good from what my parts store told me
if anything ill be out 40 bucks and the time that it took to paint this thing !
 
@D's Jeep Wrld, I would not use sand paper on the windings or anything abrasive.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOLXFW/?tag=wranglerorg-20

This stuff is what I would use. Yes, a bit expensive but it works and you wont be knocking off any material. I have used it for over 20 years on aircraft corrosion and in all types of electrical connections and micro switches. Its good stuff
 
@D's Jeep Wrld, I would not use sand paper on the windings or anything abrasive.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOLXFW/?tag=wranglerorg-20

This stuff is what I would use. Yes, a bit expensive but it works and you wont be knocking off any material. I have used it for over 20 years on aircraft corrosion and in all types of electrical connections and micro switches. Its good stuff

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So no ultra fine scotch brite on these little sections with lines right,and same with the rotor ? If anything I was thinking of dipping them in evapo sice I got the 3 gallon bucket 😁 not the spinny rotor part though cause of the bearing?
Yeah I noticed the coating on the copper windings,I figured I shouldn't touch em !

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Just like spraying any seized bolt down with PB blaster ETC... the longer it sets the better the results. The armature (rotor) (main body) I would use a scotch bright pad on it but only after soaking the areas of concern over night as that rust looks to be deeper penetrated from the picture.
 
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Just like spraying any seized bolt down with PB blaster ETC... the longer it sets the better the results. The armature (rotor) (main body) I would use a scotch bright pad on it but only after soaking the areas of concern over night as that rust looks to be deeper penetrated from the picture.

Gotcha I appreciate your info,time to soak em in evaporust,stuff works wonders for me 😁
 
After a side trip to Hawaii my replacement bolt lights arrived...only about 5 days late and our new mail contractor can't figure out the route and didn't deliver till late. Tomorrow I'll spend 5 minutes and replace the turn signal on my fender.

Oh and continuing the I can't win with Amazon...the pair of seat heaters I ordered arrived missing 50 percent of the order.

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-Mac