I've never found a part on RA that couldn't be bought elsewhere. Also when pricing out parts factor in shipping charges and lack of customer service and see how much you are really saving.
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
I've never found a part on RA that couldn't be bought elsewhere. Also when pricing out parts factor in shipping charges and lack of customer service and see how much you are really saving.
We could debate this all week. I get many have had bad experiences with RA and to each their own.
OP
The RockAuto website and search feature are total suckface. That can’t be debated. 
I didn’t like the quality of the first print so I decreased the layer hight and went for color match.
OP
Wow! Cool. The bright color will actually help since everything is the same color on the HEVAC and that’s why I didn’t see it and broke it in the first place. I confirmed early afternoon that it is broke again, so my JB Weld fix obviously didn’t work. I was able to grab the part that connects to the panel door (long side) and rotate it. I could hear the panel door moving. Then I was getting air out the 4 main vents. Rotate it the other way and no air out of the 4 main vents. I’m not sure I can get the old one out and slip the new one in without removing the dash since there’s only about 1-1.5” of space. It doesn’t matter much because before August I have to get a new heater core to replace the suck one that’s in there now. There is literally NO DIFFERENCE in air temp between AC and heat. I’m starting to wonder if I need to check the connection for the heat settings. For those interested, this lever is located a few inches in front of the right front corner of your console. Thanks again, this looks so awesome. Nice knife BTW. I assume you made that too since I noticed elsewhere you were discussing some Etsy springs that were too stiff and possibly having to go OEM. That looks like a fun hobby.
OP
I removed the TCase from the Transmission to fix the seal leak. I honestly couldn’t tell whether it was the transmission output seal or the transfer case input seal that was leaking. All the ATF was on the transfer case input seal, but the whole apparatus is leaning downhill toward the transfer case. Further, while I did have a slight leak of either ATF or Royal Purple before, it was unclear whether I already had a leak beforehand. I had replaced the transfer case seal about a year ago. So, I bought another transfer case seal, but I only replaced the transmission seal since I never saw drops from the prior leak and couldn’t tell where they were coming from anyway. I’m hoping this is it for leaks. I’m already super happy I don’t have any RMS leaks, so if this worked I’ll have a leak free Jeep! Otherwise, I’ll go back in.
OP
Fingers.
Yeah, no doubt, for you too. If I have to take it apart again it won’t be the end of the world.
So far I took it for a 10 minute drive, just enough to get to operating temp and test the heater with the blend door open. I parked it a couple hours ago and so far no leaks.
Thx, knives were an expensive hobby, then I bought a jeep. That one is the stock Benchmade 9400 Auto, it made a convenient parts stand.
You shouold do a temp calibration...You're getting too much drool from your nozzle. What are you using for a slicer program? A lot of them have built in test models to help calibrate your settings.
OP
Started leaking again at either the transmission output or the TCase input. I guess I’m going to go back in, replace both. I can’t tell which one is leaking when I get in there. It’s so annoying. I just want to drive my Jeep.
It’s really hard to get those seals seated correctly when you’ve got a shaft or snout in the way. I buy PVC collars sized to fit and tap them in, but I guess it’s not good enough. Any advice is helpful.
It’s really hard to get those seals seated correctly when you’ve got a shaft or snout in the way. I buy PVC collars sized to fit and tap them in, but I guess it’s not good enough. Any advice is helpful.
Last edited:
OP
No, but I will, and I may resort to uv dye. One or both could be leaking. Otherwise the Jeep drives great.
DougyintheBushies
TJ Enthusiast
Next time you have the seals out, check the surface of the shaft. Any little nick or scar will fail a seal quickly. I almost always use a small piece of Emory cloth or wet dry sand paper (320 grit or so) to clean up the surface before replacing seals.
You can also use a little bead of RTV on the OD of the seal, if you think it’s coming out past the shell.
OP
A couple questions so I make sure I’m doing this correctly. By shaft you’re referring to the snout on the TCase, right? That goes over the transmission driveline and through the seal on the transmission output. The driveline coming out of the transmission doesn’t matter because it’s splined and goes inside the TCase snout and doesn’t touch a seal, right?
When I tap in a seal it should be flush, right? Is anything wrong with it being partially recessed?
Whatever surface is riding on the inner lip of the seal is the one that matters. Also make sure you're not nicking the seal with the splines. Shouldn't, because there is a bit of clearance, but a rubber glove over the splines helps protect things.
As far as how deep...I usually get them flush. If it goes beyond, you might be missing the seal surface, (for the record, I don't know if this is actually happenening in this interface). When I'm driving a seal, I look for a driver that catches the seal and its boss to help prevent from going too far.
I do know when I did mine...the transmission came from an LJ with a 231. When I rebuilt my T-case (a 241OR) I replaced the input seal and it went a bit deep. I thought I would have to pull it and replace it, but decided to try it anyway. Its been dry since day one. Since you have the Terraflex front half, you might be on the edge of a good seal? I dunno...