Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

[NashvilleTJ]

And here we go. Hopefully for the last time, so every step:

Remove the six pinion carrier housing bolts:

Use the puller to remove the pinion carrier housing:

Select and verify the new pinion carrier shim stack - in this case 49 thou.

Slip the carrier into position, install the six bolts to get proper alignment (critical step), and tap into place:

Torque down the six carrier housing bolts:

Check and set the backlash. I was able to get to 4.5 thou this time.

Apply the marking compound (as Mike taught me - I use as little as possible. In fact, I only added compound to the brush the very first time I did this. All subsequent dozen times I'm just spreading it back out):

Tension the carrier:

16 turn rotation workout one way, and then 16 the other:

And just like that - pattern:

Side by side the original 49-7 pattern, it's very difficult to see a difference.

Given that I knew my target shim stack going in, this entire process took about 10 minutes.

Also, as a final step before I button it up, I checked the backlash at six points on the pinion: 4.5, 5, 4.5, 5, 4, 5. So only 5 tenths variance in either direction. I think that speaks well of Crowne's machining capability.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I'm curious about the backlash on these. Why do you want that to be on the tight side so much?

If you're pinion depth is 3 thou deep, and the backlash is really tight, it doesn't give the gears a whole lot of room to mesh. In a racing application I might understand. Not so much for this. Is it a 14b thing specifically?

I'm just thinking about the noise and grinding feel you had.

I've always liked backlash on the tighter side - until now that was just personal preference for...well..., reasons . Last year I came in at 5.

I spoke about this with Ben as well, and he told me that in addition to being a little deeper, stay on the tighter side of the backlash range. What he said was that all gears deflect under heavy load (hello, fat-ass Yellow Jeep), and starting tight gives you more leeway at the top under deflection.

Again, with the 14 bolt it's a wide range starting at 3. So, I'm on the tight end, but spec would let me go even tighter.

What do you think, Mike - does that make any sense?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Here is the drive side of the current setup compared to the original 49 7 that Ben recommended:

Interesting, looking at these things side by side in hi-res on the big screen, I can actually see the same irregularities in the patterns of a few of the teeth that are identical. It feels spot on.

 

[hosejockey61]

I've always liked backlash on the tighter side - until now that was just personal preference for...well..., reasons . Last year I came in a 5.

I spoke about this with Ben as well, and he told me that in addition to being a little deeper, stay on the tighter side of the backlash range. What he said was that all gears deflect under heavy load (hello, fat-ass Yellow Jeep), and starting tight gives you more leeway at the top under deflection.

Again, with the 14 bolt it's a wide range starting at 3. So, I'm on the tight end, but spec would let me go even tighter.

What do you think, Mike - does that make any sense?

It does. I just like to hear the reasoning to justify the "why".

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Side by side: Original on the left, current on the right. Look closely and you can identify the exact same patterns on some of the same teeth.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I have everything buttoned back up and ready to go in - including filling it with gear oil. I generally let the RTV cure over night before I allow oil to get to it, so I'll wait until tomorrow to reinstall the axle. So, on the road tomorrow.

 

[Apparition]

I have everything buttoned back up and ready to go in - including filling it with gear oil. I generally let the RTV cure over night before I allow oil to get to it, so I'll wait until tomorrow to reinstall the axle. So, on the road tomorrow.

View attachment 670529

Tomorrow

 

[sab]

Fixed it for you:

Tomorrow, a quick and proper break-in will be performed:

 

[3jeepfan]

I've seen that many manufactures recommend mineral oil vs synthetic. I'm pretty sure gear oil didn't cause your problem, but I just wondered what lube you run?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I've seen that many manufactures recommend mineral oil vs synthetic. I'm pretty sure gear oil didn't cause your problem, but I just wondered what lube you run?

I run this stuff. Full dino... The big 14 bolt takes about 3.5 quarts.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

All back together. Took it out for a 20 mile initial run. Quiet as a mouse.

Well, the rear diff, anyway...

Diff was 100 degrees at the end of the ride, so in good shape so far.

Thanks for all the help and input, Boyz. Much appreciated.

 

[Apparition]

All back together. Took it out for a 20 mile initial run. Quiet as a mouse.

View attachment 670639

Well, the rear diff, anyway...

Thanks for all the help and input, Boyz. Much appreciated.

Who's winching you out of that predicament?

Glad it's quiet Jeff

 

[gasiorv]

After 3 days above freezing, I still got 3" of ice in my back yard, where did you find that clear field?

 

[sab]

After 3 days above freezing, I still got 3" of ice in my back yard, where did you find that clear field?

It wasn't a clear field until that bright, shiny, yellow rig reflected the sun like a laser beam and cleared the field of snow and ice!

 

[John Cooper]

I thought it was his backyard.......

 

[sab]

I thought it was his backyard.......

With a full-sized toy train!

 

[John Cooper]

With a full-sized toy train!

How freaking American is that!!!!!!

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Quick project in the shop today - a synthetic winch line protector. The details are over in the Winching and Recovery forum:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/winch-rope-guard.89053/

 

[Wildman]

Quick project in the shop today - a synthetic winch line protector. The details are over in the Winching and Recovery forum:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/winch-rope-guard.89053/

Nice work...

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I've noticed recently that my GMRS radio has been shutting itself off. After a little twisting, bending and pulling on the connections I discovered that the Cat 6 coupler which connects the handheld unit to the base unit under the dash was the problem. I didn't have another coupler on hand, but I did have a Cat 6 extender. Since this is the exact reason I got the 3D printer, I fired up Fusion 360 and went to work on a holder to secure the end of the extension to the console.

Here is the new coupler, and the final model printed in PLA.

It's a tight press fit, with a taper at the back to match the shape of the connector. The connector is rubber coated, so once it is pressed in it does not move. I was originally going to add a set screw to keep it all together, but it absolutely does not need it.

Satisfied with the fit and finish after two models, I printed the final version in black ASA. The original failed connector is on the left:

Finally, installed in the Jeep, and success. Now the radio stays on until I turn it off.

That was a fun little project.