Suggestions on where to start

[Zinnal]

Hi All,

After getting some advice on this forum a while back, I installed the 2” jks lift on my 02 TJ and have been happy with it.

I now have a stock JKU being used for a daily driver and light off-roader for the family. So am starting to wonder about what to do with the TJ.

Obviously not sell it.

One thought is to build it into a more serious trail rig. Something that can handle big trails like the rubicon. In my short time researching this I keep getting overwhelmed. Do I need 35+ tires, axles, long arm, a stretch, etc. or do I just stick with a more “medium” build and go to 33s, then eventually end up redoing everything.

To start with, I have a savvy body lift sitting in my garage still. Any reason not to install that now?

I know this is a vague and unguided post, but it’s kind of where I am right now and any advice or examples will be helpful!

Based out of SoCal

 

[macleanflood]

Pretty sure you could roll the Rubicon Trail as is. I'd send it this summer and make a list of what you liked and what you want improved.

-Mac

 

[Apparition]

Pretty sure you could roll the Rubicon Trail as is. I'd send it this summer and make a list of what you liked and what you want improved.

-Mac

This

 

[Mitchrb1]

3rd'ing it. Although, if i had a Small body lift 1-1.25 laying around I'd go ahead and add it myself.

 

[JMT]

Hi All,

After getting some advice on this forum a while back, I installed the 2” jks lift on my 02 TJ and have been happy with it.

I now have a stock JKU being used for a daily driver and light off-roader for the family. So am starting to wonder about what to do with the TJ.

Obviously not sell it.

One thought is to build it into a more serious trail rig. Something that can handle big trails like the rubicon. In my short time researching this I keep getting overwhelmed. Do I need 35+ tires, axles, long arm, a stretch, etc. or do I just stick with a more “medium” build and go to 33s, then eventually end up redoing everything.

To start with, I have a savvy body lift sitting in my garage still. Any reason not to install that now?

I know this is a vague and unguided post, but it’s kind of where I am right now and any advice or examples will be helpful!

Based out of SoCal

Since you're in SoCal you have access to anything mild to wild. First of all, there's no reason not to go ahead and install the savvy body lift. That will allow you to run 1" taller tire. Second, 33's is all the 2+1.25" lift can handle, so a cheap way to get on 33's is to add that body lift. If you don't already have a 1" MML it's ideal to do that at the same time you do a body lift. Second, that setup should be able to run the Rubicon, but I'm sure you will be getting scraped underneath. You have lots of more difficult trails in the area, so here is where you might want to start thinking bigger. That's another post. Third, to deal with the scrapes underneath you need underarmor. A good way to get there is to do a tummy tuck and then a flat belly TCase skid and engine skid. Another good piece of underarmor is a gas tank skid, especially since the '97-02 have the weaker and more vulnerable of the two factory gas tank skids. While you're there with the body lift you'll be able to lift the gas tank 1" for more clearance. Woohoo!

Now go have fun.

 

[Zinnal]

Alright alright, from the majority it sounds like the body lift is coming on

 

[Zinnal]

Since you're in SoCal you have access to anything mild to wild. First of all, there's no reason not to go ahead and install the savvy body lift. That will allow you to run 1" taller tire. Second, 33's is all the 2+1.25" lift can handle, so a cheap way to get on 33's is to add that body lift. If you don't already have a 1" MML it's ideal to do that at the same time you do a body lift. Second, that setup should be able to run the Rubicon, but I'm sure you will be getting scraped underneath. You have lots of more difficult trails in the area, so here is where you might want to start thinking bigger. That's another post. Third, to deal with the scrapes underneath you need underarmor. A good way to get there is to do a tummy tuck and then a flat belly TCase skid and engine skid. Another good piece of underarmor is a gas tank skid, especially since the '97-02 have the weaker and more vulnerable of the two factory gas tank skids. While you're there with the body lift you'll be able to lift the gas tank 1" for more clearance. Woohoo!

Now go have fun.

This really helps. Thank you.

I’ll get a mml and do that with the body lift, and start looking into tummy tuck and tcase/engine/gas skids. Are there any suggestions for brands to be looking at for those?

 

[JMT]

This really helps. Thank you.

I’ll get a mml and do that with the body lift, and start looking into tummy tuck and tcase/engine/gas skids. Are there any suggestions for brands to be looking at for those?

I’d use a 1” spacer for the MML. That way you can keep all the damping from the factory MM. Rough country is aluminum. It’s all you need. JKS if you want to spend another 15 bones.

For the TCase skid you’re going to be looking at UCF because you’re in the ‘97-02 range and the Savvy one isn’t available.

If there’s an early model Savvy gas tank skid that’s a win. If not you’re back to UCF.

 

[bucky]

The question you need to ask yourself is what type of wheeling do I want to do. Do you just want to get out and explore or do you want to do serious rock crawling? I have an 05 TJRU with a 3.5” lift and 32s. I run the Sierra and the Mohave and have yet said to myself that I need a 4”lift and 35s. I also have an 89 YJ 2.5” lift and 31s that’s been all over Baja with zero issues.
I would suggest installing the body lift and go with 33s. With that set up you’ll be able to run 95% or more of the trails out here. Run it until the tires wear out. By that time you’ll know if you want to take the next step in a build. Right now I’d spend the money on things like a which if you don’t have one, radios GMRS and ham, recovery gear, bumpers, lights and all the other crap we keep buying. All those will still be usable if you decide to build bigger and spend some serious money.
It’s not always about the build of a rig, it’s the skills of the guy behind the wheel.

 

[Woodrow]

We love these questions!
For anyone who has been through a build (do you ever get through?), its fun to think about and try to pass along what you have learned.

You have some good advice already. A body lift is a key TJ mod which I tried to avoid and learned how wrong I was. Do it.

The next good advice is armor. Rock sliders, tank and engine skid and tuck with better T-case skid. UCF 3/8” aluminum is the way with your rig. Also consider corner armor.

The Rubicon is iconic and I’ve run it twice. Once on 33s and once on 35s. Ironically, it was harder on 35s. Not because my rig didn’t work better. It did great. But trails change year to year and day to day.

Finally, the other good advice you already got (perhaps the best) is wheel your rig. Figure out what works and what doesn’t and modify as necessary.

Have fun

 

[Zinnal]

We love these questions!
For anyone who has been through a build (do you ever get through?), its fun to think about and try to pass along what you have learned.

You have some good advice already. A body lift is a key TJ mod which I tried to avoid and learned how wrong I was. Do it.

The next good advice is armor. Rock sliders, tank and engine skid and tuck with better T-case skid. UCF 3/8” aluminum is the way with your rig. Also consider corner armor.

The Rubicon is iconic and I’ve run it twice. Once on 33s and once on 35s. Ironically, it was harder on 35s. Not because my rig didn’t work better. It did great. But trails change year to year and day to day.

Finally, the other good advice you already got (perhaps the best) is wheel your rig. Figure out what works and what doesn’t and modify as necessary.

Have fun

Why do you say 3/8” aluminum instead of steel?

 

[Moglocker]

Why do you say 3/8” aluminum instead of steel?

You need to keep it as light as possible.

 

[JMT]

Why do you say 3/8” aluminum instead of steel?

Think like a race car. You’re looking for performance. You need what is sufficient for the task as light as possible

 

[Zinnal]

Everything I read says aluminum won’t be strong enough though

 

[JMT]

Everything I read says aluminum won’t be strong enough though

Don’t read Facebook.

Keep reading the forum. The strength has been discussed here many times because of the common misinformation.

Most here have aluminum. When needed there is steel reinforcement in the design (e.g. bumper corners, skid plate crossmembers).

 

[Woodrow]

Why do you say 3/8” aluminum instead of steel?

Everything I read says aluminum won’t be strong enough though

Strength to weight. While upgrading your offroad capabilities requires adding mass (larger tires, a winch, armor etc), weight also kills performance both on and offroad. A good build strikes the right balance.

UCF makes a 1/4” aluminum skid, which I tried and bent. For me, their 3/8” aluminum skid has held up to alot of abuse and is straight. Compared to 1/4” steel, 3/8” aluminum is about about 30% lighter. In general, aluminum is better for TJ armor because of this. Rock sliders are the exception and must be steel where they contact rocks. I also use a steel tank skid but that’s debatable.

 

[GregBelleville]

Hi All,

After getting some advice on this forum a while back, I installed the 2” jks lift on my 02 TJ and have been happy with it.

I now have a stock JKU being used for a daily driver and light off-roader for the family. So am starting to wonder about what to do with the TJ.

Obviously not sell it.

One thought is to build it into a more serious trail rig. Something that can handle big trails like the rubicon. In my short time researching this I keep getting overwhelmed. Do I need 35+ tires, axles, long arm, a stretch, etc. or do I just stick with a more “medium” build and go to 33s, then eventually end up redoing everything.

To start with, I have a savvy body lift sitting in my garage still. Any reason not to install that now?

I know this is a vague and unguided post, but it’s kind of where I am right now and any advice or examples will be helpful!

Based out of SoCal

Where have you wheeled your rig so far? I'm in So Cal too and even with just 33s and a front locker am able to do most of the popular trails here outside of JV.

 

[Coalcracker18]

I'd say get full underside and rocker skids a decent set of control arms maybe a take out 44 if you don't already have one and a winch and just go have fun. I never built a TJ with more than 3-4 inches of lift or larger than 33 inch tires. They are very capable with those modifications and I have found out over the years everything tends to hold up pretty well. Another consideration might be the ZJ V8 tie rod conversion, an inexpensive upgrade on parts that probably need to be replaced anyway. Don't try and over complicate it, give it a couple good shake downs and see what you think need to be upgraded. There is no reason to just throw money at something that isn't broke.
One other thing I am also running the JKS 2" with a 1" body lift and I'll say that once I added the winch and steel bumper I had to put 1.5 inch spacers in. That was out of the box brand new, just an observation and a note that I'm going to be changing out springs this year.

 

[Zinnal]

I’d use a 1” spacer for the MML. That way you can keep all the damping from the factory MM. Rough country is aluminum. It’s all you need. JKS if you want to spend another 15 bones.

For the TCase skid you’re going to be looking at UCF because you’re in the ‘97-02 range and the Savvy one isn’t available.

If there’s an early model Savvy gas tank skid that’s a win. If not you’re back to UCF.

OK, so in doing a little bit of research on the tummy tuck… I have another question, with the ultra high clearance skid plate from UCF, will this require an SYE kit? I’ll have 2” suspension lift, 1.25” body lift, 1”motor mount lift, and likely a spacer lift to level it out in the front.

If an SYE kit is needed, which brands should I start looking at? Trying to get some pricing together and knowing the answer to this question would really help

 

[macleanflood]

JB conversions super short but then that opens up another can of speedometer woes.

Assuming you need one...tuck it and see if you have vibes.

I needed to replace my front driveshaft too when I did my tuck. I did a regular SYE and I'm pretty sure my rear shaft isn't in a good place after the tuck.

So if you do a SYE and a tuck you might need two shafts...

-Mac