Are 33s too big?

[Bensjeeptj]

I have a 2003 Sahara with 1 inch lift springs and 31x10.5x15s bfg ko2s that came when I bought it, along with a set of, (I think) 1.5 inch spacers gifted by a friend.
I will soon need new tires and I’m considering upgrading to 33x12.5x15s or potentially 33x10.5x15s, thought I’m leaning towards the 12.5s.
This jeep is my daily (about 10k miles a year, I’m a student so I don’t drive a whole lot), and I take it offroading about once a month, in addition to lots of rough roads to get to campsites often. I also live in western NC and get a good bit of snow, which the ko2s handle… passingly (not great).
Should I do the upgrade to 33s? How will this affect my gas mileage, service intervals, and on-road and off-road performance, will they even fit (worried about rub at flex)?
If I were to upgrade, I’m looking to move to a yokohama geolandar m/t g003, I live the look of them and they seem to have good sidewall tread.

 

[KennethS]

What gear ratio are your axles? And what transmission?

 

[Bensjeeptj]

What gear ratio are your axles?

I’m not sure, pretty sure it’s a Dana 35 in the rear and a 30 in the front, that’s what the saharas came with right. It’s also the 5 speed manual if that means anything

 

[Ashim]

Just by looking at your Jeep, I think a narrow 33 would be fine. You don't have any fender flares to get in the way. Flex it out and make sure you have at least 1" of clearance around the tire circumference to accommodate the larger tires.

 

[Bensjeeptj]

Just by looking at your Jeep, I think a narrow 33 would be fine. You don't have any fender flares to get in the way. Flex it out and make sure you have at least 1" of clearance around the tire circumference to accommodate the larger tires.

I removed the flares because even the 31s were rubbing them at full flex, I have a front sway bar disconnect for on trail and it allows them to contact the flares so I toon the easy road out (looks more aggressive I think, dumb 19 year old brain likes ) I plan to eventually get highline front fender too because my factory ones are totally rusted out.

 

[Ashim]

I removed the flares because even the 31s were rubbing them at full flex, I have a front sway bar disconnect for on trail and it allows them to contact the flares so I toon the easy road out (looks more aggressive I think, dumb 19 year old brain likes ) I plan to eventually get highline front fender too because my factory ones are totally rusted out.

Well, I guess you answered your question. You'll need to stick with 31's or lift it more.

 

[Bensjeeptj]

Well, I guess you answered your question. You'll need to stick with 31's or lift it more.

What I meant was the 31s rubbed the flares, not the body. That’s why I removed them.

 

[Ashim]

What I meant was the 31s rubbed the flares, not the body. That’s why I removed them.

If the 31's rubbed the flares, it's likely that the 33's will rub the body.

 

[Bensjeeptj]

Noted, I feel like they could clear, definitely test fit before buy, my main concerns are the other things mentioned, will I get a significant wheeling performance increase come the larger tire size?

If the 31's rubbed the flares, it's likely that the 33's will rub the body

 

[Ashim]

You'll get an extra inch of clearance off-road. Sometimes that's that's enough to make a difference. I suggested the narrow 33's for less roadway drag for the daily driving. I think it would be a great setup if they clear.

 

[Bensjeeptj]

You'll get an extra inch of clearance off-road. Sometimes that's that's enough to make a difference. I suggested the narrow 33's for less roadway drag for the daily driving. I think it would be a great setup if they clear.

I think the narrows are probably a more reasonable choice as well, given I often deal with snow. I think they should clear, it’ll be tight but at full flex (pictured) it looks like there should be space. I like the idea of not going for a crazy lift to maintain a low center of gravity for wheeling and daily-drivability. The front fenders will for sure contact, but they already do with 31s, so not much you can do about that, with the eventual addition of some sort of high line from fenders it should be solved, additionally, I’m very rarely at full flex, and if I am, it’s while crawling so I’m not too worried.

 

[The4bangertj]

33s will need more bump stop which in turn means more lift. The go to is a 4inch lift with 2inch extended bumps. You can high line but you still need the clearance in the rear which you can trim the tub to the pinch seam if you’re really not trying to lift it. (Everyone would suggest a lift as it benefits you Offroad and that’s the point of all this bigger tires and stuff).
The first pic is 33x12.5r15 with 3 inches of bump stop no highline. Second and 3rd pic are the same wheels but with 2inch of bump stop and highlines.

 

[Bensjeeptj]

33s will need more bump stop which in turn means more lift. The go to is a 4inch lift with 2inch extended bumps. You can high line but you still need the clearance in the rear which you can trim the tub to the pinch seam if you’re really not trying to lift it. (Everyone would suggest a lift as it benefits you Offroad and that’s the point of all this bigger tires and stuff).
The first pic is 33x12.5r15 with 3 inches of bump stop no highline. Second and 3rd pic are the same wheels but with 2inch of bump stop and highlines.

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All signs point to a larger lift if I want 33s, I’ll likely wait until I’ve totally burned through these 31s and save up some money to do a lift and tires and bumps, I’m going to end up buying aftermarket highlines, or just higher clearance fenders, (not sure of terminology), because my factory fenders are TOAST.
How frowned upon are some “pucks” the spacers? I’m aware that they don’t increase flex, but if I’m just trying to clear tires, is it worth it? Should I save up for a proper 4inch kit?

 

[The4bangertj]

All signs point to a larger lift if I want 33s, I’ll likely wait until I’ve totally burned through these 31s and save up some money to do a lift and tires and bumps, I’m going to end up buying aftermarket highlines, or just higher clearance fenders, (not sure of terminology), because my factory fenders are TOAST.
How frowned upon are some “pucks” the spacers? I’m aware that they don’t increase flex, but if I’m just trying to clear tires, is it worth it? Should I save up for a proper 4inch kit?

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Highline fender require you to cut your hood 3 inches up and move the fender into that place. It’s not a bolt on project and it involves relocating a lot of stuff under the hood too. No factory fender (standard genright or metalcloak fenders) will NOT give you the room you need to clear bigger tires, don’t be fooled by the metal cloak marketing. It is basically just different shaped flares so nothing different (maybe worst) than your stock fenders with no flare.
Pucks will increase the ride height but that is it. You need to add bump stop to prevent the tires from hitting the metal fender or body. If you add bump stop you’re shortening your up travel which is very important to keep. So you need to increase the bump stop, which will increase the ride height and when you do both of those you now need new shocks to reset your shock travel to your new bump stop and ride height. So no pucks are not what you need either.

 

[Bensjeeptj]

Highline fender require you to cut your hood 3 inches up and move the fender into that place. It’s not a bolt on project and it involves relocating a lot of stuff under the hood too. No factory fender (standard genright or metalcloak fenders) will give you the room you need to clear bigger tires, don’t be fooled by the metal cloak marketing. It is basically just different shaped flares so nothing different (maybe worst) than your stock fenders with no flare.
Pucks will increase the ride height but that is it. You need to add bump stop to prevent the tires from hitting the metal fender or body. If you add bump stop you’re shortening your up travel which is very important to keep. So you need to increase the bump stop, which will increase the ride height and when you do both of those you now need new shocks to reset your shock travel to your new bump stop and ride height. So no pucks are not what you need either.

This is good info, I appreciate your help, essentially, what I’m gleaning, is stick with 31s until I have disposable income and a place to work! I wheel just fine for now so the responsible thing to do is to stick with my setup.

 

[The4bangertj]

That’s a good plan lol. It’s a can of worms.

 

[Bensjeeptj]

indeed it is! As a spry young 19 year old, I want to do it all, but I’m learning not to rush the process, it’ll come in due time!

 

[The4bangertj]

That’s a good plan. I’ve had my jeep since I was 16 (I’m 26 now). I lifted it earlier than I should have and I still havnt finish the suspension to my liking but I think this year I will finally get it to great spot. No need to rush it.

 

[Bensjeeptj]

That’s a good plan. I’ve had my jeep since I was 16 (I’m 26 now). I lifted it earlier than I should have and I still havnt finish the suspension to my liking but I think this year I will finally get it to great spot. No need to rush it.

What a great story, I’ve had mine but a year, and it’s been fantastic, started off with a beater work truck that’s now parked in my side yard and drove my moms car for a while. I’m trying to prioritize things, I’ve got a winch and some sliders my dad helped me make to install over my spring break. Armor and recovery seem like better basics to start off with, after all, what good are big tires if you get stuck and destroy the body!

 

[tr21triton]

You really need to know what gears you have, anything less than 3.73 and you're going to hate 33's. that thing will be a dog up there in Boone on the hills. Get you some good 31 mud terrains, 1 in. extra ground clearance ain't going to make a big difference. Or get 33's and in 6 months when you decide it has no power in those mountains you can throw a couple grand at regearing it to get some power back. But I was 19 once and you want 33's, when I was 19 I had a 71 Bronco on 38's