To SYE or to not

[Charlie G]

Just put on a budget 3" lift from zone offroad a few weeks ago and the tcase drop kit is keeping my shifter from fully engaging my bottom gears (2,4,6,R)

I want to get rid of the tcase drop, and I wanted originally to do that via sye kit with a new driveshaft THIS KIT

Now after doing some research, I hear about pinion angle. Unfortunately I have all stock control arms so I don't think I will be able to adjust that.

My question is, can I install the sye kit and driveshaft with now pinion angle adjustment and get away with it? Is the kit I chose good?

(I have the non-rubicon t case with dana 44)

 

[Chris]

The kit is fine, but if you want a SYE you're going to need adjustable control arms. The two go hand-in-hand and you're going to need to install them at the same time.

Keep your transfer case drop and stock control arms until you have the money to get both the SYE and adjustable control arms and install them at the same time.

 

[macleanflood]

A SYE at a minimum needs rear upper adjustable control arms and a rear driveshaft.

You may need lower adjustable control arms and a track bar adjustment bracket...maybe even an adjustable rear track bar.

If you get a JB conversions super short SYE...which I wish I did...you'll also need something like a Speedo Healer.

You might want to consider a Black Magic Brakes 1.25" body lift in lieu of the SYE.

-Mac

 

[hear]

If you get a JB conversions super short SYE...which I wish I did...

bro same

 

[SeanCucf]

A body lift, and motor mount lift may solve your problems, without diving into the suspension/driveline changes. I had 3"springs(+3/4" spacer up front), 1" body lift and MML for years before needing a SYE.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

The OP's problem is that his shifter is hitting the console. I believe that just adding a body lift would make that worse, correct?

It seems to me that modifying the console to add clearance for the shifter would be a good approach, would it not?

 

[JMT]

The OP's problem is that his shifter is hitting the console. I believe that just adding a body lift would make that worse, correct?

It seems to me that modifying the console to add clearance for the shifter would be a good approach, would it not?

Yes, adding a body lift would make it worse.

He could modify the console by moving the lower boot back 1". This requires drilling new holes around the edge of the boot. I had to do this at one point. It was not the ideal solution, but at least I could get in 2,4, 6, and R.

Ideally getting rid of the TCase drop would probably fix his issue because it would also raise the Transmission back up to it's proper relation to the tub. When I had a body lift and MML I needed a Tummy Tuck to bring the Transmission back up where it needed to be in relation to the tub so the lower boot could go back to the stock position.

 

[hear]

Do a MML and you'll be fine. I might be the only Jeep lover on this forum that's actually poor, but has had 20 wives.

FTFY

 

[hear]

lol you actually edited your post. I love this place.

 

[SeanCucf]

The OP's problem is that his shifter is hitting the console. I believe that just adding a body lift would make that worse, correct?

It seems to me that modifying the console to add clearance for the shifter would be a good approach, would it not?

All I know, is the combination worked for me. I don't remember modifying the console ever being an option back in the day. It's been over 20yrs, though, so I could be wrong.(jeepsunlimited isn't around anymore for me to reference.)

If the OP is just looking for an excuse to do more work, then by all means, do so. I'm just saying, there's likely more affordable options, that don't open the can of worms that is the suspension/driveline

 

[SeanCucf]

deleted

 

[Zinnal]

bro same

Why?

 

[hear]

Because the shorter length would help run a lower pinion angle, and I would have been forced to use an electronic speedo sensor. As it sits my tire size makes my speedo off, but I'm going to re-gear at some point so buying a new $40 speedo gear only to have to get another one post-regear...and/or again after I go to 35's. I mean, I guess I could just buy a speedo healer still, but it's one of those situations where I'm handcuffed because my hand isn't really forced. Had I gone with the SSSYE I would've needed to buy the speedo healer. It makes sense in my head.

So I guess ultimately it's just the lowered pinion angle.

 

[GregBelleville]

I have a related question on this topic.

When lifting a TJ into the 3" range where you're in drive line vibe/slip yoke territory, is there a range of pinion angle adjustment that can be done with a stock driveshaft assuming you have adjustable control arms to dial out vibrations?

 

[hear]

I think the answer is generally that you might be ok with it as stock, but if you don't have an SYE are you likely to have adjustable arms?

 

[TheBoogieman]

I have a related question on this topic.

When lifting a TJ into the 3" range where you're in drive line vibe/slip yoke territory, is there a range of pinion angle adjustment that can be done with a stock driveshaft assuming you have adjustable control arms to dial out vibrations?

Anyone buying adjustable arms should have already had a SYE (unless it's a Rubicon) when they installed them IMO. I did neither, except on my 03' Sahara.

 

[GregBelleville]

I think the answer is generally that you might be ok with it as stock, but if you don't have an SYE are you likely to have adjustable arms?

I'm asking for myself. I'm trying to spread out the financial pain of doing this lift the right way.

Stage 1: adjustable control arms

Stage 2: springs and shocks, hopefully can get by without sye and driveshaft yet.

Stage 3: tummy tuck, UCF skid, sye and driveshaft.

 

[hear]

For the 4" lift I bought, it came with a skid plate drop to potentially avoid the need for the SYE & adjustable arms. I knew I was going SYE so I did it all at once, mostly. I did try to see if I could get by without the adjustable arms because f this place with all it's expertise. LOL. Definitely needed the adjustable arms and did that step immediately.

I say all that to say that you can do #1 first. You can potentially do #2 if you use a skid plate drop, but you may find that you still get driveline vibrations. Then you'll have to at least do the SYE & driveshaft. The tummy tuck adds another layer of complexity.

 

[NVMXSKIER]

It depends what you are shooting for?If handling, dependent on castor degree and drive line vibration is a priority then SSYE has benefits from the start. If doing the SSYE then rebuild the tcase while it is out(suggestion only). Don't worry about the speedo if you are on a progression... I do think the JB, shortest yoke is a good idea, especially if you may run a doubler some day on a manual TJ. We looked for a doner vehicle that already had a bad lift installed so the height was already set and the 4" shocks and springs were adequate. Nothing wrong with Rancho 5000x and linear springs in a slow moving trail rig. Do the SSYE first, it is needed for all future mods. If you want to hold off on a drive shaft replacement find a JKY front doner and cut/weld it yourself as a temp? The shift issue towards the bottom of the pattern is a direct result of tcase drop. You can also buy arms in stages from Core 4x4 instead of the whole set at once. Get some rear upper adjustables if Driveline angle is highest hurdle at first.