Cummins R2.8 97 TJ

Update on the R2.8

The little engine has a little over 7000 miles now. I am still chasing temperature fluctuations from all of the coolant lines and I have disabled a return line that I had running to the radiator inlet that was basically full flow 3/8 that bypassed the thermostat. It helped maintain closer to thermostat temps. With a 180 degree thermostat, my engine runs around 170-180+- going down the road, but will still drop to 140 going slow in town and that is with the winter front snapped on. The winter front works well, but if I start working the engine busting snow drifts it isn't hard to get a code for too high charge air temps, not enough air is flowing across the intercooler.

I have been messaging Mark at Power Toys and I think I am going to ship him my ecm this week and have him flash a 200/400 tune with egr delete. It's not cheap, but I really want to get rid of the egr and the extra coolant hoses it uses and I think it might help with keeping the coolant temps more stable. I still love my little diesel, especially after a day running around in the mountains, it just sips fuel.
 
I am new here and I do not have a Jeep but what I do have is a 1978 FJ40 that I am rebuilding with a Cummins R2.8.

I did buy the TDR tuner from the UK and finally found a tuner in Canada that has experience with the R2.8 and can provide a delete tune but you have to down load the stock tune and email them the file. You will need to have an AutoCalV3 tuner to down load the stock file. Then once they write the tune they will send you an email to load onto the tuner and plug in and up load to the ECM. There tune costs more then what it cost me to do my Cummins 6.7 from Spelab but so far they are the only ones that are willing to do a delete tune and can also do a performance tune.

https://gwndiesel.com/shop/cummins-hd-delete-tuning/cummins-hd-delete-tuning/?wmc-currency=USD3
DRIVE TRAIN.webp



CRANK EXTENTION AND FLYWHEEL INSTALLED.webp



ADAPTER PLATE INSTALLED.webp
 
I am new here and I do not have a Jeep but what I do have is a 1978 FJ40 that I am rebuilding with a Cummins R2.8.

I did buy the TDR tuner from the UK and finally found a tuner in Canada that has experience with the R2.8 and can provide a delete tune but you have to down load the stock tune and email them the file. You will need to have an AutoCalV3 tuner to down load the stock file. Then once they write the tune they will send you an email to load onto the tuner and plug in and up load to the ECM. There tune costs more then what it cost me to do my Cummins 6.7 from Spelab but so far they are the only ones that are willing to do a delete tune and can also do a performance tune.

https://gwndiesel.com/shop/cummins-hd-delete-tuning/cummins-hd-delete-tuning/?wmc-currency=USD3
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View attachment 682664

did you delete the DOC can’t tell from the photo
 
did you delete the DOC can’t tell from the photo

I did remove the particulate filter and replaced the down pipe with a different 90 from Cummins that I put an adapter that necked up the exhaust from 2.5" to 3" and ran the exhaust forward the crossed under the oil pan the ran to the rear. My drive shafts are on the PS side and wanted my exhaust to run above the skid plate like my old exhaust did on the DS.

I have deleted the throttle valve and the exhaust cooler and the blank that attaches to the exhaust manifold is drilled and tapped for EGT probe.
 
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I did remove the particulate filter and replaced the down pipe with a different 90 from Cummins that I put an adapter that necked up the exhaust from 2.5" to 3" and ran the exhaust forward the crossed under the oil pan the ran to the rear. My drive shafts are on the PS side and wanted my exhaust to run above the skid plate like my old exhaust did on the DS.

I have deleted the throttle valve and the exhaust cooler and the blank that attaches to the exhaust manifold is drilled and tapped for EGT probe.
Replaced the DPF with the down pipe from Cummins and then the 2.5 to 3" adapter to run the exhaust.
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1776465691527.webp
 
I hope you Guys don't mind me posting on you site since this is a Toyota FJ40 but thought you would like the input from my R2.8 build and how I approached the process for my FJ40.
 
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i’m definitely going to look into adding an EGr probe.

i’m still running mine the way it is. when i get a workshop i plan on blowing the hole front end apart and redoing all the wiring. its a mess of spaghetti every where. two different harnesses. laying on top of the motor. not clean or factory looking at all
 
I hope you Guys don't mind me posting on you site since this is a Toyota FJ40 but thought you would like the input from my R2.8 build and how I approched the proccess for my
i’m definitely going to look into adding an EGr probe.

i’m still running mine the way it is. when i get a workshop i plan on blowing the hole front end apart and redoing all the wiring. its a mess of spaghetti every where. two different harnesses. laying on top of the motor. not clean or factory looking at all

This is the blank I had cut from 1/2" plate that has two ports 1 horizontal and one vertical so I could use with or with out the EGR cooler.

1776537561935.webp


I drilled 2 ports in the blank and tapped for a plug or the probe.

1776537629623.webp
 
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I hope you Guys don't mind me posting on you site since this is a Toyota FJ40 but thought you would like the input from my R2.8 build and how I approched the proccess for my


This is the blank I had cut from 1/2" plate that has two ports 1 horizontal and one vertical so I could use with or with out the EGR cooler.

View attachment 683699

I drilled 2 ports in the blank and tapped for a plug or the probe.

View attachment 683700

are you connecting to the murphy gauge ?
 
I hope you Guys don't mind me posting on you site since this is a Toyota FJ40 but thought you would like the input from my R2.8 build and how I approached the process for my FJ40.

You're good. FJ40's are cool. Not Jeep cool, but still cool.

😉
 
You're good. FJ40's are cool. Not Jeep cool, but still cool.

😉

The Toyota FJ25 and 40 were a HD copy of the Willys and I have tried to eliminate the poor steering and improve the good brakes and make them even better with a big brake kit for the front that widened the track 3" and use my old front wheel hubs on the rear and FJ40 brake rotors and calipers when I converted a FJ60 rear axle too a full floating axle. The FJ60 axle is 3" wider then the FJ40 axle to provide a little more stability, I rolled it about 6 months after buying it on the way to work in a blizzard just outside of the Jim Bridger Power Plant in the spring of 1979.

The replacement of the 4 speed and transfer case to a later 5 speed and split transfer case with 3:1 low range and kept the 4:11s in the axles gave me better low gearing and high gearing. Wont be turning 4K at 55 mph like it did originally.
 
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Update on the R2.8

The little engine has a little over 7000 miles now. I am still chasing temperature fluctuations from all of the coolant lines and I have disabled a return line that I had running to the radiator inlet that was basically full flow 3/8 that bypassed the thermostat. It helped maintain closer to thermostat temps. With a 180 degree thermostat, my engine runs around 170-180+- going down the road, but will still drop to 140 going slow in town and that is with the winter front snapped on. The winter front works well, but if I start working the engine busting snow drifts it isn't hard to get a code for too high charge air temps, not enough air is flowing across the intercooler.

I have been messaging Mark at Power Toys and I think I am going to ship him my ecm this week and have him flash a 200/400 tune with egr delete. It's not cheap, but I really want to get rid of the egr and the extra coolant hoses it uses and I think it might help with keeping the coolant temps more stable. I still love my little diesel, especially after a day running around in the mountains, it just sips fuel.

I live down in Riverton and I am still working on my FJ40 with the R2.8. I did find https://gwndiesel.com/shop/cummins-hd-delete-tuning/cummins-hd-delete-tuning/?wmc-currency=USD3 that has experience with doing tunes for the Cummins 2.8. You have to have the tuner to down load the stock tune and email to them. They will send back a delete tune.

I bought this tuner for my Ram 3500 and GWN says it will work when I am ready to do my delete tune.

IMG_2853.webp
 
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I’ve put 6000 miles on my 2.8 and wonder how much damage i’m causing by not deleting the egrs

my 6.4l had 70k before i was able to soft delete it. and I can assume the intake is covered in Epa goodness
 
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I’ve put 6000 miles on my 2.8 and wonder how much damage i’m causing by not deleting the egrs

my 6.4l had 70k before i was able to soft delete it. and I can assume the intake is covered in Epa goodness

I had less then 40K on my Cummins 6.7 and when I took the valve off of the intake it did not have a sticky mess inside.
 
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