the more i dig in. the more i realize i need to just get the dual battery set up with two 800cca batteries.
I am new here and I do not have a Jeep but what I do have is a 1978 FJ40 that I am rebuilding with a Cummins R2.8.
I did buy the TDR tuner from the UK and finally found a tuner in Canada that has experience with the R2.8 and can provide a delete tune but you have to down load the stock tune and email them the file. You will need to have an AutoCalV3 tuner to down load the stock file. Then once they write the tune they will send you an email to load onto the tuner and plug in and up load to the ECM. There tune costs more then what it cost me to do my Cummins 6.7 from Spelab but so far they are the only ones that are willing to do a delete tune and can also do a performance tune.
https://gwndiesel.com/shop/cummins-hd-delete-tuning/cummins-hd-delete-tuning/?wmc-currency=USD3
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did you delete the DOC can’t tell from the photo
Replaced the DPF with the down pipe from Cummins and then the 2.5 to 3" adapter to run the exhaust.I did remove the particulate filter and replaced the down pipe with a different 90 from Cummins that I put an adapter that necked up the exhaust from 2.5" to 3" and ran the exhaust forward the crossed under the oil pan the ran to the rear. My drive shafts are on the PS side and wanted my exhaust to run above the skid plate like my old exhaust did on the DS.
I have deleted the throttle valve and the exhaust cooler and the blank that attaches to the exhaust manifold is drilled and tapped for EGT probe.
i’m definitely going to look into adding an EGr probe.
i’m still running mine the way it is. when i get a workshop i plan on blowing the hole front end apart and redoing all the wiring. its a mess of spaghetti every where. two different harnesses. laying on top of the motor. not clean or factory looking at all
I hope you Guys don't mind me posting on you site since this is a Toyota FJ40 but thought you would like the input from my R2.8 build and how I approched the proccess for my
This is the blank I had cut from 1/2" plate that has two ports 1 horizontal and one vertical so I could use with or with out the EGR cooler.
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I drilled 2 ports in the blank and tapped for a plug or the probe.
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I hope you Guys don't mind me posting on you site since this is a Toyota FJ40 but thought you would like the input from my R2.8 build and how I approached the process for my FJ40.
are you connecting to the murphy gauge ?
You're good. FJ40's are cool. Not Jeep cool, but still cool.
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Update on the R2.8
The little engine has a little over 7000 miles now. I am still chasing temperature fluctuations from all of the coolant lines and I have disabled a return line that I had running to the radiator inlet that was basically full flow 3/8 that bypassed the thermostat. It helped maintain closer to thermostat temps. With a 180 degree thermostat, my engine runs around 170-180+- going down the road, but will still drop to 140 going slow in town and that is with the winter front snapped on. The winter front works well, but if I start working the engine busting snow drifts it isn't hard to get a code for too high charge air temps, not enough air is flowing across the intercooler.
I have been messaging Mark at Power Toys and I think I am going to ship him my ecm this week and have him flash a 200/400 tune with egr delete. It's not cheap, but I really want to get rid of the egr and the extra coolant hoses it uses and I think it might help with keeping the coolant temps more stable. I still love my little diesel, especially after a day running around in the mountains, it just sips fuel.
I’ve put 6000 miles on my 2.8 and wonder how much damage i’m causing by not deleting the egrs
my 6.4l had 70k before i was able to soft delete it. and I can assume the intake is covered in Epa goodness