Front diff bearing oddness, run it or replace it?

[Zorba]

Inner Race - 88610
Inner Bearing - 88649

Outer Race - 86610
Outer Bearing - 86649

The flipping of 8's and 6's makes things confusing. 88 - inner, 86 - outer.

Don't need "Spicer" specifically, as they do not make the bearings anyways. Originally used by Spicer were Timkens, so that's what I go with for stock rebuilds.

Thanx. I do have the correct inner set, a new outer set is on its way - Spicer numbers. Hopefully, its the right one this time, I verified it on Denny's driveshafts, and almost bought it from them but their shipping was overpriced. Amazon's descriptions and fitment are screwed up of course, the "new" one I ordered they claim won't fit because its for a Dana 44. Well, it is - but according to Denny's and a couple of other sources I Googled, its for BOTH the 44 and the 30.

And yea, the Spicers are Timkins for the pinions, but Iljin for the carrier.

 

[machoheadgames]

And yea, the Spicers are Timkins for the pinions, but Iljin for the carrier.

Sounds like you'll be sorted soon. As for the carrier, OEM was Timken, but sometime in recent years buying "Spicer" got you Iljin instead. Original was Timken. Either is fine though. I go with Timken because I figure if anything, the tolerance will be closer to exactly matching the original...but they're all close enough to be fine.

 

[macleanflood]

Yeah I made the mistake of not ordering a master install kit when I did my front gears...I'm just swapping the R&P I'll be fine...and then I needed to wait weeks for shipping after I bent up shims.

-Mac

 

[hear]

Did not find, at least not in Spicer.

I don't know that I've ever seen a Spicer install kit. I just check the bearing brand, needs to be either Timkin or Koyo. You get the seals, all 4 bearings, shims, paint, ring gear bolts, and a bunch of stuff you don't need for the job you're doing. But it beats hunting down specific bearings & seals.

 

[Zorba]

I don't know that I've ever seen a Spicer install kit. I just check the bearing brand, needs to be either Timkin or Koyo. You get the seals, all 4 bearings, shims, paint, ring gear bolts, and a bunch of stuff you don't need for the job you're doing. But it beats hunting down specific bearings & seals.

Hind sight and all that. I bought the carrier bearings first, then I was convinced to at least open my mouth so I could see out (!!) and do the pinion bearings as well. Oh well - it'll work out in the end.

And before someone says it; yea, I'm gonna have to check the rear diff at some point. At least I now have the tools and a vague idea of what I'm doing (I hope, its not back together yet!)!

 

[macleanflood]

At least I now have the tools and a vague idea of what I'm doing (I hope, its not back together yet!)!

Welcome to my level!

-Mac

 

[machoheadgames]

Yeah I made the mistake of not ordering a master install kit when I did my front gears...I'm just swapping the R&P I'll be fine...and then I needed to wait weeks for shipping after I bent up shims.

-Mac

For an R&P would be when you should get the install kit...just rebuilding the diff with bearings doesn't need that unless you have an oopsie and ruin a stock shim.

 

[Zorba]

Welcome to my level!

-Mac

I think I have a long way to go before I get to YOUR level... Wait...

 

[Zorba]

Everything is an adventure a learning experience. Thought I'd be clever, so bought this $9 seal puller:

It didn't even get the thing to budge, so I employed my favorite trick:

Uh, no. Tool now trashed, but it *did* manage to get me a very tiny gap at the bottom. So I had to do it the hard way:

Cold chisel and swearing time! But that outer bearing is now out, showing a bit of wear:

Races are next - will probably be Friday now. Between being slow, being cautious, having to deal with life, and the damn hot sun, I'm slow as frozen tar. New outer bearing doesn't arrive until Friday anyway, hopefully its the right one this time.

 

[ColoJeep]

Everything is an adventure a learning experience. Thought I'd be clever, so bought this $9 seal puller:
View attachment 683134

It didn't even get the thing to budge, so I employed my favorite trick:
View attachment 683135

Uh, no. Tool now trashed, but it *did* manage to get me a very tiny gap at the bottom. So I had to do it the hard way:
View attachment 683137

Cold chisel and swearing time! But that outer bearing is now out, showing a bit of wear:
View attachment 683138

Races are next - will probably be Friday now. Between being slow, being cautious, having to deal with life, and the damn hot sun, I'm slow as frozen tar. New outer bearing doesn't arrive until Friday anyway, hopefully its the right one this time.

Remember , you are making forward progress Zorba ! , you will get it done just fine .

 

[Zorba]

Remember , you are making forward progress Zorba ! , you will get it done just fine .

Yea, I'm not too worried about it. A little bit each (most) days.

 

[ColoJeep]

Yea, I'm not too worried about it. A little bit each (most) days.

How hot is it on MI ? right now it's 46* F with a 24 m.p.h wind , after getting 5 " of snow last night ( melted now ) . 65 and sunny is my perfect weather !

 

[Zorba]

How hot is it on MI ? right now it's 46* F with a 24 m.p.h wind , after getting 5 " of snow last night ( melted now ) . 65 and sunny is my perfect weather !

65 or 70 and overcast is my preference. It was 88 on the porch today. The absolute temperature isn't really the problem, its that darn Sun! When the Sun goes behind a cloud, it can be 90 and still fairly nice, esp. what with the afternoon breeze we get. But when the Sun comes out from behind the cloud, it just GLARES and the heat is horrific - I'm always reminded of that scene in "Armageddon" where the Sun starts hitting the surface of the asteroid and all the frozen water starts blowing up and boiling. That's what it feels like. This is just too much heat and Sun for this California boy! More of a follower of Selene rather than Apollon!

 

[KennethS]

Speaking of blazing sun. Yesterday it was 74 degrees outside. I went out back and when I stepped into the sun my feet were burning. Went back and got the IR thermometer to measure the patio temperature in the shade and in the sun. We don’t have clouds or humidity so there’s nothing in the atmosphere to absorb the solar radiation, and anything in the sun is broiling hot.

 

[hear]

But when that breeze blows up your skirt...... :melt:

 

[Zorba]

But when that breeze blows up your skirt...... :melt:

That just shows a lack of pre-planning and poor skirtsmanship. For those who need to brush up on same:

https://www.doubleveil.net/skirtsmanship.htm

 

[Zorba]

Back to the yoke, started with:

Wet sanded with 600 grit crocus cloth, followed by 1,000 grit:

Resulted in:

Perfect? No. Better? Yes. There are multiple contact points with the seal, the outermost is the one that formed the big groove, which is still there but a lot smoother than it was. The faint innermost mark is gone, one of the intermediates can still be faintly seen. Unless someone says otherwise, I'm going to run it. It wasn't leaking before, new seal, multiple contact points, smoother now, blah, blah, blah.

 

[KennethS]

There is a repair sleeve for severely grooved yokes.

https://www.randysworldwide.com/pro...KnUGLG5s10_1OyXZ_2tKhwK9DP6i8PoiNjSq1LMEpGpDR

 

[Zorba]

There is a repair sleeve for severely grooved yokes.

https://www.randysworldwide.com/pro...KnUGLG5s10_1OyXZ_2tKhwK9DP6i8PoiNjSq1LMEpGpDR

That's very good to know - but is this one "severe"? I'm thinking not, but what do I know? Not much...

 

[GoldenGorilla]

Sounds like you'll be sorted soon. As for the carrier, OEM was Timken, but sometime in recent years buying "Spicer" got you Iljin instead. Original was Timken. Either is fine though. I go with Timken because I figure if anything, the tolerance will be closer to exactly matching the original...but they're all close enough to be fine.

One of my metallurgy clasmates went to work for Timken years ago. Made in USA.

I've gotten a few Made in India Timkens lately. Not as confident about the tolerances, but it's the world we live in.