How to align your Jeep Wrangler TJ

With the plates, you don't even jack the front tires off the ground?
Doesn't the tire bulge interfere with accuracy of the measurement?
 
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With the plates, you don't even jack the front tires off the ground?
Doesn't the tire bulge interfere with accuracy of the measurement?

Technically yes, but the bulge will be the same on both sides if your air pressures are the same. Make sure you check your air pressures. You are not making a specific measurement, you are measuring that the back measurement is 1/16th to 1/8 wider than the front. Everybody's numbers will be different. You just want it slightly wider in the rear than the front.

Does that make sense?

Honestly when I used to align my YJ I always made it toe in 1/4 inch, I was surprised that it was even closer on the TJ. And thinking about it I am not sure I ever knew the correct spec on the YJ which could have been 1/16 but I always did a 1/4 and still had no issues. What I am saying is it is not precise. You can be off and still be good to go. Think about if you go to the alignment shop who charges you an arm and a leg to aline your toe. then the first time you go off of a curb or hit a speed bump too hard or even go 4 wheeling, do you take it back to get re-aligned? No you will drive on it slightly off and wont even know it even it if is a 1/4 inch off.

As long as your Jeep drives straight and you keep your tire pressures up, and you rotate them like you are supposed to you wont even notice if the front end is slightly off.

Chances are if you use the toe plates or the bar method as described in the beginning of this tread, I bet if you take it in to get it aligned it will be close. I have never paid for a front end alignment on any of my straight axle 4x4s.

I know this is a long winded reply, but I wanted you to understand why I make my suggestion.

Lastly if you learn how to align your Jeep yourself, then you don't have to pay 70 bucks after you go wheeling or hit a speed bump too hard. After a while you can do it super quickly. Especially if you use the tow plates because you don't even have to pull the tires nor jack it up.

Here is what I do. I lay the tow plates tight up against each tire then I lean a jack stand against each toe plate then I put a tape measure on both sides and pull them tight and read the numbers then I adjust if necessary then re-check till I get it right. Usually takes to times of adjustments, then I tighten them up and re-check. If it is good. I kind of eye the steering wheel then try and adjust it. Then I go drive it and see how far off the wheel is. Usually I am close and it takes me 3 test drives to get it right. Honestly I am more critical with the wheel adjustment than I am with the tie rod adjustment.

I hope I answered your question
 
Ok, but it seems that the tires on the ground with the weight of the vehicle on them, would prevent the wheels from being able to move in tiny adjustment increments.
 
Ok, but it seems that the tires on the ground with the weight of the vehicle on them, would prevent the wheels from being able to move in tiny adjustment increments.

Yeah, but you are actually pushing or pulling them with a threaded long bar halfway up the tire. You are actually not changing the adjustment on the full weight of the Jeep. Once you do it, you will see it is not really that hard. Most of us on here do this ourselves, and we are all willing to help.

Earlier in this thread, I believe, I did the adjustment with the bars clamped to the brake rotors then I wrapped it up, and drove the jeep around for a couple days then brought it back into the garage in the same spot and rechecked it with the toe plates and it was still at the 1/8 measurement.

If you feel comfortable one way or the other is fine. The aluminum bars you can get at Home depot for like 10 bucks then you only need two tape measures. Well you an do it with one, but two are definitely easier. So really you can do it for 10 bucks, and some work. The toe plates do come with tapes, but the tool is 60 bucks. For me it is cheap, and it pays for itself the second time you use it. I am not saying either is better because i got the same results with both. but I personally prefer the plates for speed.

But just to reiterate it is not hard to make the adjustments with the it on the floor.
 
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I’m having a really tough time getting the tie rod to move. I’m using 10” vise grips and no matter how hard I tighten it, it spins. I PB blasted the threads on the tie rod ends and even tried some heat. No dice. Any thoughts?

Thanks


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I’m having a really tough time getting the tie rod to move. I’m using 10” vise grips and no matter how hard I tighten it, it spins. I PB blasted the threads on the tie rod ends and even tried some heat. No dice. Any thoughts?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pipe wrench, and let the pb blaster soak for a while. Keep trying you will get it. Worse comes to worse might be time to upgrade or replace it.
 
Pipe wrench, and let the pb blaster soak for a while. Keep trying you will get it. Worse comes to worse might be time to upgrade or replace it.

Thanks for the advice ac_! This might be the proper motivation to do the ZJ upgrade.


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Stupid question, but does tire size impact the required toe in or is it always 1/16"-1/8"? Is that the factory specification?
 
Stupid question, but does tire size impact the required toe in or is it always 1/16"-1/8"? Is that the factory specification?
It’s always 1/16”. The purpose for the slight toe in is the friction on the road forces the tire out (when moving forward), so you’re tire is actually at 0” toe in motion. Factory specification is 0.25* I believe.
 
It’s always 1/16”. The purpose for the slight toe in is the friction on the road forces the tire out (when moving forward), so you’re tire is actually at 0” toe in motion. Factory specification is 0.25* I believe.
I used to toe my YJ at .25, but since everybody is adamant about the 1/16th here I have since changed my ways. BTW Always ran BFG M/T's on my YJ and never had wear issues at .25. I also have dropped my air pressure from 32 to 26 since being on this forum. See, old dogs can learn new tricks.
 
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Thank you. I think I just over thought it since I keep seeing “1/16”-1/8” for your 33s”. It’s not that it’s a measurement that is unique to 33s, it’s the factory spec and tire size doesn’t matter. The “for your 33s” was just referencing that that the person had 33s. I hope that makes sense.
 
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I used to toe my YJ at .25, but since everybody is adamant about the 1/16th here I have since changed my ways. BTW Always ran BFG M/T's on my YJ and never had wear issues at .25. I also have dropped my air pressure from 32 to 26 since being on this forum. See, old dogs can learn new tricks.
The 0.25 in the FSM is degrees, which I think is the same as 1/16”.
 
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The 0.25 in the FSM is degrees, which I think is the same as 1/16”.
I still stand by my post. I usually measure from the front center of the each tire to the rear center of each tire, and if we were within a quarter inch I straightened the steering wheel and called it good. I have never had an issue with a 1/4 inch. It is just that everybody is so adamant on this forum to be 1/16th, and be a little more critical, that I started doing it like this thread. It has worked out great for me.

I am pretty new to this 4 link suspension, so I don't have enough information to argue with it, so I just followed suit. My way will probably be fine too, but since it is just as easy to do it the TJ forum way and everybody says it works, it is just easy enough for me to comply, and so far it has worked brilliantly.
 
Thank you. I think I just over thought it since I keep seeing “1/16”-1/8” for your 33s”. It’s not that it’s a measurement that is unique to 33s, it’s the factory spec and tire size doesn’t matter. The “for your 33s” was just referencing that that the person had 33s. I hope that makes sense.
I've been researching your original question a bit and I'm not sure anymore. It seems that tire diameter is part of what is supposed to be taken into consideration when aligning a vehicle. I don't have time to go into it now, but here's a link to read if you want to consider...In the end I don't know if it matters since 1/16" is working for everyone

https://robrobinette.com/ConvertToeInchesToDegrees.htm
 
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I've been researching your original question a bit and I'm not sure anymore. It seems that tire diameter is part of what is supposed to be taken into consideration when aligning a vehicle. I don't have time to go into it now, but here's a link to read if you want to consider...In the end I don't know if it matters since 1/16" is working for everyone

https://robrobinette.com/ConvertToeInchesToDegrees.htm

I like how much time you spend researching, Now that I am not in the business anymore, I have to do the same now too. I think you are going to be a great tech, hell I think you already are.
 
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The 0.25 in the FSM is degrees, which I think is the same as 1/16”.

Thanks to a link here, I looked up the factory specs. This says .15 degrees for each front wheel, which I assume if looking at an alignment sheet would show .30 degrees?

B68C63CD-056D-4DE9-A086-E015F785AB50.jpeg
I realize that we can’t adjust each tire individually so we would need to go by the total measurement. (Let’s ignore the 1/8”-1/16” measurement for now since we are talking FSM specs). I think it’s important to be clear that when saying the the ideal spec is .15 degrees, it means each tire, not the total.

Or am I just confused again?
 
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Thanks to a link here, I looked up the factory specs. This says .15 degrees for each front wheel, which I assume if looking at an alignment sheet would show .30 degrees?

View attachment 61012 I realize that we can’t adjust each tire individually so we would need to go by the total measurement. (Let’s ignore the 1/8”-1/16” measurement for now since we are talking FSM specs). I think it’s important to be clear that when saying the the ideal spec is .15 degrees, it means each tire, not the total.

Or am I just confused again?
Looking at that sheet I’d say that’s correct, total toe in of 0.30*