So it does looks like I am going to have to get control arms?A 3.5" spring is too long for stock control arms and driveline, regardless of mml.
So it does looks like I am going to have to get control arms?A 3.5" spring is too long for stock control arms and driveline, regardless of mml.
So body lifts don't affect control arms or the driveline?A 3.5" spring is too long for stock control arms and driveline, regardless of mml.
So body lifts don't affect control arms or the driveline?
Yes, stay at 3” SL. Then your stock CA’s will be fine. Here are a few 3” choices:And I thought control arms were very recommended once you get above 3 inches.
Well I am eventually going to want to upgrade springs and control arms eventually. All the things the body lifts keep me from having to replace, are ultimately things I want to upgrade anyway.Wonder why you want to change springs? If you add a 1.25 BL to you 2.5 springs you get to 3.75 which is great for the 33's you have.
I think this setup that you are recommending is really good. But the reason I am ok with doing a coil spring lift on it is because a lot of the things that the body lift is keeping me from having to change, are really things I want to upgrade anyway. Such as the control arms and getting the sye and CV driveshaft. I do like the idea tho of getting maybe a 3 inch coil spring lift then add like a 0.75 body lift so I can do a TT. And also keep my 33's at the same time. I am ok with spending some money. I am mostly just concerned with making sure the expensive stuff is going towards the right parts, instead of something such as the track bars, which I can get away with being cheap for now.Yes, stay at 3” SL. Then your stock CA’s will be fine. Here are a few 3” choices:
BDS
Teraflex
JKS
Savvy
Zone
ProComp
By the way I'm not trying to ignore the things you are saying and trying to be stubborn. I've just been looking at lifts for awhile and have always been looking up on mostly coil spring lifts and staying away from body lifts. I've just always had that in mind for doing my lift, and this is a whole different route to take as far as putting a lift on my jeep.Or, if you want add a spacer to your current springs to get to 3”, then a 1”BL or 1.25”. The bottom line is these combinations all allow you to save a ton of money + accomplish what you really want to do AND be set up for any future further improvements. I really suggest the front lunchbox locker. I prefer the invisible PowerTrax NoSlip. That is not overboard expensive, you can DIY and have a great build. My build is very similar and I’m very happy, not just with the capability, but with the ability to go further.
View attachment 63935
I understand. Some don’t like the looks of a BL and would prefer to do it all via SL. This is a personal build preference. But I think a small BL is hard to avoid. It has so many advantages.I think this setup that you are recommending is really good. But the reason I am ok with doing a coil spring lift on it is because a lot of the things that the body lift is keeping me from having to change, are really things I want to upgrade anyway. Such as the control arms and getting the sye and CV driveshaft. I do like the idea tho of getting maybe a 3 inch coil spring lift then add like a 0.75 body lift so I can do a TT. And also keep my 33's at the same time. I am ok with spending some money. I am mostly just concerned with making sure the expensive stuff is going towards the right parts, instead of something such as the track bars, which I can get away with being cheap for now.
So I think I might end up with a small BL like you recommended, but also upgrade the springs. I really just dont want to stay with RC parts if I can help it. And plus i think I will still upgrade the control arms, that's something I really wanted on my jeep. But the ability to do the TT sounds really good, so I think i will take your advice to do a BL, but also upgrade with 3 inch springs because I want as little as body lift as possible. But I'm not really sure what all goes into a TT. Like what kind of parts are required for a TT, and is there a minimum amount of BL I need to have to do it?I understand. Some don’t like the looks of a BL and would prefer to do it all via SL. This is a personal build preference. But I think a small BL is hard to avoid. It has so many advantages.
I appreciate your concern of possibly offending me, but don’t worry about me! I just saw another possible option and shared,
Going the SL+BL route, you get to the SYE and DC and new CA’s when you do a TT. That’s what I’m looking at next year if I can get my Dana 44 and gears installed soon. All the best in improving the capability of your rig .
So if I was to have a 0.75-1 inch BL, what amount of TT can I do without having to make serious modificationsTo do a TT you need:
SYE
DC
New TCase skid
Rear CA’s
The amount of TT you can do is related proportionally to the amount of BL you do. Rokmen makes a 0.5” BL and you can do an ~1.5” TT all the way up to a 1.25” BL and you can do up to a 3.75” TT (flat, with some exhaust modifications and possible tub indentations).
Does mine have a body lift? If so, about how much?So if I was to have a 0.75-1 inch BL, what amount of TT can I do without having to make serious modifications
It looks like you have a TT so ya I would say you have a body lift. I'm not a person who can tell how much though.Does mine have a body lift? If so, about how much?
View attachment 64045
...I'm not a person who can tell how much though.
Even when you mentioned it I still hardly recognized a BL haha.That's what I'm getting at. Most don't notice a small body lift when they aren't fixating on it.
A small body lift is a tremendously helpful thing.
1.25", btw.Even when you mentioned it I still hardly recognized a BL haha.