Doing rear drum brakes? A must read!

RaymondT said:
When I routed the spring as you did in the photo, it pulled the adjuster arm away from the adjuster wheel on both sides enough that they would never adjust up. It wasn't a lot but it was visible.
Click to expand...


So I have a new problem/"What not to do story"... I bought my brake parts kit on amazon. It included new auto-adjust brake levers. So I used those and threw out the old ones. When I took for a drive right after completing the work they were squeaking. I found this thread and assumed that it was simply a matter of correcting the spring placement on the adjuster lever per the original photo in this thread. Last night when I opened them up I found that I had a bigger problem. It took me a little bit of time, to figure out that I had the wrong lever. There was a comment on the amazon page for the kit that I bought and I'll let that person's comments tell the story:

BAD%20BRAKE%20ADJUSTER%20LEVER%20-%2001-M.png
BAD%20BRAKE%20ADJUSTER%20LEVER%20-%2002-M.png
BAD%20BRAKE%20ADJUSTER%20LEVER%20-%2003-M.png


"I used this kit for the rear drum brakes on a 1997 Jeep Wrangler SE (TJ). Although there were some extra retaining clips that weren't needed for my Jeep, all the parts fit fine EXCEPT for the adjuster plates (see photos). The new adjuster plates protrude quite a bit further than the stock adjuster plates, grinding a rut into my brand new drums. If you hear a grinding noise while driving after you've properly adjusted your drum brakes, STOP DRIVING immediately and check the adjuster plates; this is how I found out about the issue. If you still want to use this kit on 9" drum brakes, either clean up and reuse your old adjuster plates, or file/grind the new ones. It's too bad because the rest of the kit seems good, but because new drums will cost me twice as much as this kit, it gets one star."

Moral of the story... I should have read this and his comment first. In the meantime does anyone know where to get the correct adjuster lever? Like a dumbass I threw mine out.
 
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RaymondT said:
Hi all,

I just spent a good long day installing new drums, shoes, hardware, and auto adjusters. I ran into a little issue with the auto adjuster cable that everybody attempting this repair needs to know. It's not mentioned in any factory repair manual or youtube video. In fact, there's virtually no mention of it. It's very important that the little green spring and the bracket that surrounds it is installed just like in the picture, otherwise the part of the adjuster pivot that engages the star wheel will not hold enough tension and your brakes will never adjust up for wear. It took me 4 extra hours to sort this out. Many YouTube videos did it wrong and they just slapped it together none the wiser.

View attachment 36446
Click to expand...
How do I access all of the pictures, not just the one, please?
 
You could try your local parts store but that's not particularly likely. You can go to a scrap yard and get the part off another jeep. Lastly, like the guy said, get your file out.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
DominicWilbrink said:
So I have a new problem/"What not to do story"... I bought my brake parts kit on amazon. It included new auto-adjust brake levers. So I used those and threw out the old ones. When I took for a drive right after completing the work they were squeaking. I found this thread and assumed that it was simply a matter of correcting the spring placement on the adjuster lever per the original photo in this thread. Last night when I opened them up I found that I had a bigger problem. It took me a little bit of time, to figure out that I had the wrong lever. There was a comment on the amazon page for the kit that I bought and I'll let that person's comments tell the story:

View attachment 49486 View attachment 49487 View attachment 49488

"I used this kit for the rear drum brakes on a 1997 Jeep Wrangler SE (TJ). Although there were some extra retaining clips that weren't needed for my Jeep, all the parts fit fine EXCEPT for the adjuster plates (see photos). The new adjuster plates protrude quite a bit further than the stock adjuster plates, grinding a rut into my brand new drums. If you hear a grinding noise while driving after you've properly adjusted your drum brakes, STOP DRIVING immediately and check the adjuster plates; this is how I found out about the issue. If you still want to use this kit on 9" drum brakes, either clean up and reuse your old adjuster plates, or file/grind the new ones. It's too bad because the rest of the kit seems good, but because new drums will cost me twice as much as this kit, it gets one star."

Moral of the story... I should have read this and his comment first. In the meantime does anyone know where to get the correct adjuster lever? Like a dumbass I threw mine out.
Click to expand...
I appreciate this little tip. Tell you what, I have a scrap Dana 35 that I'd be glad to remove these adjuster arms/levers from (assuming they're in any kind of useable shape). If you'll PM me your address, I'd be glad to send 'em to you (again, assuming they're useable). Also, unless there is some kind of inspection where that groove in your drums wouldn't pass, I would not think twice about continuing to use those drums. I have done so in the past on various vintage vehicles where you could not just go out and get a replacement drum, and I can honestly say that I never noticed any ill effects from doing so. Not once. I know some may disagree with this "advice", but it is based on my own personal real world experience. It's your decision to accept the recommendation, or not. ;)
 
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I just want to thank everyone for all the advice and tips on replacing drum brakes. I did mine today and I don’t think I would have gotten them right without this thread.

First side took me 2 hours and the second side took me 30 minutes after I tried and failed on the first side. I re-used the adjuster plate after wire brushing it. It’s mixing having a parking brake again


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Thanks for the article. I have done these a few times on 89 Cherokee and now 92 Cherokee which I use mostly around the property for plowing etc. Six things I wanted to add on because you guys seem to get it and are interested in the little details:

1) There is a retaining clip on the reap primary pad post that the spring for the adjuster and spring - don't see it pictured. It may affect the adjuster alignment and keep it more on the adjusting screw. I'm using this and have not seen a difference in alignment from the green spring.

2) Seconding the moly grease comment - must use but don't overdo.

3) For those of you sick of the retaining springs on the pads -you can use a bolt and lock nut of suitable length, just drill the hole you need in the caps. It speeds things because once you get the pads tied down the rest is simpler. The other springs work very easily with pliars and screwdrivers.

4) I found it easiest to leave the green spring cable dangling from top post and then install it last - very simple to lift the adjust all the way up and then route cable and grab (whatever orientation) you need on the adjuster arm with the spring.

5) Regarding parking brake... MAKE SURE YOU LOOSEN / LEAVE THE BRAKE CABLE SO THERE IS NO PULL when you do final drum placement/assembly. Adjust for a snug fit, then test drive/back up to adjust,adjust, adjust. Then and only then tighten up the parking brake. If you don't do this you will effectively only be using one shoe and your parking brake won't be as good not to mention wearing out pads.

6) Whoever patented these garbage mechanisms should be shot! Too easy to mess up!
 
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If you suspect you have an issue with the adjuster arm and cable/spring assy is set up properly as per the picture at the start of this thread;

You could have an adjuster cable stretched, a new one that wasn't made properly (China). Here's a Raybestos link to a decent catalog.

https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/en-us/catalog-part-search.html

Most parts store catalogs throughout the aftermarket industry draw the raw data from a common source. Errors get repeated and you wind up with the wrong kit, although I don't think this is an issue in this case. Just something to keep in mind.
 
Shatto said:
My Mechanic, Dex, whips out his iPhone and takes photos as he is disassembling. He says it keeps things simple.
Wish I could slow down enough to emulate him.
Click to expand...
I've started doing that myself, just as an added piece of insurance. Another option (one I've done for decades) is to keep one side of the axle (brakes) intact while you're working on the other side. This way, you have something to reference from should you lose track of what's what.
 
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^^^ Amen @Squatch!

I started doing drum brakes in the early 70’s. (Gasp! Before cell phones!) One side at a time was how I was taught.

My mechanic career lasted 40 + years and I almost never pulled both sides apart at the same time. MAYBE, if it was a GM vehicle that I could do in my sleep. For years the slowest part of a brake job was the time it took to turn the drums and rotors on the brake lathe. There was no reason to pull everything apart at once just to throw it on your cart and take a chance of making a mistake when you reassembled. “Come backs” are expensive and bad for business.

BTW: Offereing the OP your brake parts for shipping costs was a class act IMHO.
 
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jgaz said:
^^^ Amen @Squatch!

I started doing drum brakes in the early 70’s. (Gasp! Before cell phones!) One side at a time was how I was taught.

My mechanic career lasted 40 + years and I almost never pulled both sides apart at the same time. MAYBE, if it was a GM vehicle that I could do in my sleep. For years the slowest part of a brake job was the time it took to turn the drums and rotors on the brake lathe. There was no reason to pull everything apart at once just to throw it on your cart and take a chance of making a mistake when you reassembled. “Come backs” are expensive and bad for business.

BTW: Offereing the OP your brake parts for shipping costs was a class act IMHO.
Click to expand...
The things we learn through the years, ya know? Might be the only advantage of aging! LOL

Thank you for the comment regarding offering up the parts to the OP. That was right nice of you to say. I appreciate that! :)
 
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Doing my brakes today.. or trying to, I need a new shoe position plate and parking brake bar.. hard to find parts where I’m at, carqwest is getting them in tomorrow, fingers crossed that I can finish my drums tomorrow and drive my Jeep again.. I have all new springs shoes and drums I painted black last night , this is the good side, the opposite was just all disintegrated , the shoe position plate and parking brake bracket are mangled, was pissed those 2 items weren’t in the hardware kit, by the jack stand on the edge of the shadow line is the old shoe position plate, it won’t even fit over the rod it’s supposed to be on

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8C73BB2D-5B4A-448A-8E5E-1F1A9FDE1568.jpeg


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Can someone please help me figure out where these things go. I can't find any mention of them anywhere?
d0acab41e93903c1925a1bff94ea893f.jpg
. I am trying to reassemble and I don't see where they are on the old setup. When I took them apart the shoes were locked up inside the drum so they didn't come off as nice as I wanted them to. I don't have a good side to really go off of for reference.
694d687a8224d27f583ef45db4577317.jpg



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RaymondT said:
Hi all,

I just spent a good long day installing new drums, shoes, hardware, and auto adjusters. I ran into a little issue with the auto adjuster cable that everybody attempting this repair needs to know. It's not mentioned in any factory repair manual or youtube video. In fact, there's virtually no mention of it. It's very important that the little green spring and the bracket that surrounds it is installed just like in the picture, otherwise the part of the adjuster pivot that engages the star wheel will not hold enough tension and your brakes will never adjust up for wear. It took me 4 extra hours to sort this out. Many YouTube videos did it wrong and they just slapped it together none the wiser.

View attachment 36446
Click to expand...
Great to know.... appreciate it!
 
Bringing an old thread back to life for a new question. I just completed a brake job on my 02 TJ with Dana 44 and drums. When taking it apart, I noticed the adjuster lever hanging low, not in contact with the star. The other end of the cable was on the top center post behind the springs and in front of the retainer for the shoes.
When I assembled it that way, there was too much slack in the cable to bring the lever up to the star. I decided to put the top end of the cable between the shoes and the retainer. The ID of the top end of the cable matches with the step on the post. Then put the retainer and springs on. Works as it should. I wonder if all the pics of the cable end between the springs and retainer are wrong?
 
LHC30 said:
Bringing an old thread back to life for a new question. I just completed a brake job on my 02 TJ with Dana 44 and drums. When taking it apart, I noticed the adjuster lever hanging low, not in contact with the star. The other end of the cable was on the top center post behind the springs and in front of the retainer for the shoes.
When I assembled it that way, there was too much slack in the cable to bring the lever up to the star. I decided to put the top end of the cable between the shoes and the retainer. The ID of the top end of the cable matches with the step on the post. Then put the retainer and springs on. Works as it should. I wonder if all the pics of the cable end between the springs and retainer are wrong?
Click to expand...
I have no idea but I've seen lots of pics out there and the key is to make sure the adjuster lever is in very close proximity to the star wheel and there is no slack in the cable.
 
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