That's "because SEMA". The Campbell hood is worth looking into for ultimate clearance however it has no inner-fender and no flare behind the tire so it's application is more limited.
Fender smack down! Tube fenders compared on a real Jeep
- Thread starter toximus
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That's "because SEMA". The Campbell hood is worth looking into for ultimate clearance however it has no inner-fender and no flare behind the tire so it's application is more limited.
When I showed the owner the slight difference in uptravel his shiny new fenders were going to net him, he was pretty unhappy. He ranted a fair bit about them telling him they would clear his 37's with no problem.
I think the stretch benefited all of the tests (except OEM, which I accounted for with +1" uptravel). If it looked like the results would be better, I could easily remove the stretch and I do have a set of 35s unmounted. I still think MetalCloak would have the turning problem, if not worse, since the tire is -1" in size but moved +2" rearward.
If MetalCloak feels differently or misrepresented they can post their own results, something they have been unable to do since they promised about 2 years ago now.
A lot of people tell me I need to put on 37
Been waiting on that myself, I remember him responding that it would be a couple days but that turned into weeks, months, and now years.
Been waiting on that myself, I remember him responding that it would be a couple days but that turned into weeks, months, and now years.
My recollection in these past similar discussions is that very few people actually cycle their suspensions to see what is really going on. Instead we get ramp, trailer and forklift pictures which can disguise all kinds of clearance and setup problems.
We have even asked Matson for some more definitive measurements, such as the minimum bump stop requirement of a 35 with MC fenders. No one knows that answer. Not even Metalcloak.
We have even asked Matson for some more definitive measurements, such as the minimum bump stop requirement of a 35 with MC fenders. No one knows that answer. Not even Metalcloak.
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Unless you're wanting to stretch to 105", I wouldn't. Somebody who built a few Jeeps on 37s told me before I started that 37s are a tough row to hoe. I couldn't agree more, the field is uphill both ways.
I have no intention of doing it. Some of my friends who are into autos keep telling me to, but I know what it takes! After this front axle build I am done buying axles. Ive had the stock 35, my current rubi 44, the stock Dana 30, the current Dana 30, and now the xj Dana 30
Just add 5" of wheel spacers to each side... you'll be fine...
Question... You measured without the plastic flares on the fenders... Could the vendors claims include the difference between stock with the flares and their aftermarket without them? Looking at my Rubi there's a possible gain to be had just removing the flares.... Though I haven't tested.
The biggest dirty secret in this marketing misinformation is that the flares are flexible. They should not be included in any clearance limitations. The limitations of the body are the sheet metal.
Knowing what we know, can anyone show where a typical non-highline tube fender provides more clearance as compared to stock? Do they actually provide less clearance?
once you remove the factory flare, the factory fender often gives equal or more clearance than a non highline tubular fender.... especially if that tubular fender is wider. But the big clearance difference is the cutaway moving the wheel opening back to the a-pillar.
Saw this home built on another site.
The "fender" is welded to the hood.
Here was the first piece..
Plus a custom inner fender..
I think this gives the best flex clearance, home built all the way.
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To illustrate why the flares are less of a concern than many might want to believe, here is mine at two very different stages in it's life...
In both images, the front bump stops are set to keep the tires from grabbing sheet metal at full flex. This is the first point of interference on my setup. At full bump both sides, the tires are far away from the outer fender lips. My tires do rub the flares for brief moments in very specific situations. But not in a way that would cause damage. Basically, the flares are a non-issue when you pay attention to the bump stop extensions.
Look back at the first post and you have an idea of where my smaller tires are.
In both images, the front bump stops are set to keep the tires from grabbing sheet metal at full flex. This is the first point of interference on my setup. At full bump both sides, the tires are far away from the outer fender lips. My tires do rub the flares for brief moments in very specific situations. But not in a way that would cause damage. Basically, the flares are a non-issue when you pay attention to the bump stop extensions.
Look back at the first post and you have an idea of where my smaller tires are.
Great write up, love the comparisons.
Honestly, everytime we get bigger tires, we cause problems. Maybe the after market makes unrealistic claims but I think we often have unrealistic expectations.
After 45 years of Jeeps, I now limit myself to getting it done with 33s on a stock suspension.
Honestly, everytime we get bigger tires, we cause problems. Maybe the after market makes unrealistic claims but I think we often have unrealistic expectations.
After 45 years of Jeeps, I now limit myself to getting it done with 33s on a stock suspension.
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C.J. Roberts
TJ Addict
I've always wondered why all these aftermarket fenders are so narrow. I think that if I were going as far as these, I'd want them wider for tire coverage.
It depends on your needs and where you wheel. We can't deal with wider flares, wider fenders, etc. A classic example is a set of Genright high lines in JV with the 4" flare. When we got done, the outer edge of the flare was flush with the side of the body.
Wider only works if it works for what you do and what you do is not always the same as what someone else does.
There is no unrealistic expectation involved if a company tells you directly that you will have no problem clearing a specific tire size, none whatsoever. Had you paid that bill, you'd feel the same way. He bought them based on what he was told, I showed him how much they limited uptravel after he had installed them. He then paid me to carefully remove them so they could be sold for as much as possible, he bought Genright High Lines and then paid me to install them. That is neither cheap or unrealistic.
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